Enquiry on Sigma AF 10-20mm f/4-5.6 HSM EX DC


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if you are planning to shoot at the widest end (10mm)

you probably will not use much filters. i would think you can at most use one filter at one time, even if you get extra slim ones. if you plan to use slide-in filters with the cokin psystem, then you HAVE to get the ultrawideangle filter holder version. and you cannot stack, or will get vignetting. the troubles with using uwa lens. :dunno:

I am gg to buy this lens and filter (likely CPL). I am also concerned about the vignetting. So, what should i do? Can i skip getting the slide-in filter? I got too much inventory and i keep losing my accessories.
 

I am gg to buy this lens and filter (likely CPL). I am also concerned about the vignetting. So, what should i do? Can i skip getting the slide-in filter? I got too much inventory and i keep losing my accessories.

personally i would skip the cpl. i only use a gnd filter on this lens, and remove the uv protector whenever it is in use, whether i use the gnd or not.

when shooting landscapes with the gnd, try to stop down to f/11 and smaller, it will control the vignetting.

as to why cpl is not very applicable here, the field of view here is more than 90 degrees, you are going to get uneven polarisation which may look unnatural.. so you would probably not polarise very much.. might as well get your intense blues with controlling the brightness in the sky with a gnd, if you get what i mean :)
 

i mean normal skylight or uv filter is not recommend to put infront of the lense act as protection.
 

I use a Nikon NC Filter. I have no problems with it so far. I believe most UV/protective filters will work fine.
 

i mean normal skylight or uv filter is not recommend to put infront of the lense act as protection.

it's ok, but stop down. or you might get some slight vignetting at 10mm, depending on how thick your filter is.
 

if you are planning to shoot at the widest end (10mm)

you probably will not use much filters. i would think you can at most use one filter at one time, even if you get extra slim ones. if you plan to use slide-in filters with the cokin psystem, then you HAVE to get the ultrawideangle filter holder version. and you cannot stack, or will get vignetting. the troubles with using uwa lens. :dunno:

With an ND over the UV filter (both normal thickness), hard vignetting is visible already. (i.e black edges, not just darker corners)

i mean normal skylight or uv filter is not recommend to put infront of the lense act as protection.

Just get a decent filter (Hoya HMC/SHMC, Nikon NC, B+W MRC) for protection.
 

thank calebk n night86mare for sharing, those decent filter mention r there ex sorry i m outdated.
 

Heh... The word expensive is pretty relative you know. :)

I believe you will find the following to be relatively expensive:
1. Nikon NC Filter
2. B+W Filters (All of them)
3. Hoya/Kenko Pro1D Series
4. Hoya SuperHMC

The following tends to be cheaper:
1. The lesser Hoya/Kenko variants [Hoya HMC, UV-Guard (Coated), UV-Guard (Uncoated)]
2. Tokina / Tamron / Vitacon / Tiffen

I probably missed out several other brands, but I suppose I got most of the popular choices here. Personally, I don't really think there is a need to use filters that are too expensive. (My NC Filter came together with my Sigma 10-20 when I bought it 2nd-hand, so hey, why not?) If I hadn't got that filter from the sale, then I'd probably settle for a Hoya HMC or equivalent.

There has been many discussions on which is the best filter all over ClubSnap, and indeed, all over the web. The many grips include reflections, ghosting and ease of cleaning. Go read up about it if you want.
 

Heh... The word expensive is pretty relative you know. :)

I believe you will find the following to be relatively expensive:
1. Nikon NC Filter
2. B+W Filters (All of them)
3. Hoya/Kenko Pro1D Series
4. Hoya SuperHMC

The following tends to be cheaper:
1. The lesser Hoya/Kenko variants [Hoya HMC, UV-Guard (Coated), UV-Guard (Uncoated)]
2. Tokina / Tamron / Vitacon / Tiffen

I probably missed out several other brands, but I suppose I got most of the popular choices here. Personally, I don't really think there is a need to use filters that are too expensive. (My NC Filter came together with my Sigma 10-20 when I bought it 2nd-hand, so hey, why not?) If I hadn't got that filter from the sale, then I'd probably settle for a Hoya HMC or equivalent.

There has been many discussions on which is the best filter all over ClubSnap, and indeed, all over the web. The many grips include reflections, ghosting and ease of cleaning. Go read up about it if you want.
many thanks Blur Shadow for ur information, that right i juz need a protection for e lense only.
 

After trying out different filters, just recently I had the "privelege" to shoot on a lens that had a Tokina filter on. When there were direct, in-focus lights in the frame, the ghosting was horrible.

Because it was a fast prime, the highlights in the bokeh don't seem to ghost, but I did notice that sharpness was a little disappointing (only if you peep real close, if not, results are amazing).
 

personally i would skip the cpl. i only use a gnd filter on this lens, and remove the uv protector whenever it is in use, whether i use the gnd or not.

when shooting landscapes with the gnd, try to stop down to f/11 and smaller, it will control the vignetting.

as to why cpl is not very applicable here, the field of view here is more than 90 degrees, you are going to get uneven polarisation which may look unnatural.. so you would probably not polarise very much.. might as well get your intense blues with controlling the brightness in the sky with a gnd, if you get what i mean :)

Hi,

I am interested to use a GND with my Sigma 10-20 too, but wanna check with u, are those the cokin/tian ya type of filter, or those screw in circular types? Also, how bad is the vignetting?
 

Hi,

I am interested to use a GND with my Sigma 10-20 too, but wanna check with u, are those the cokin/tian ya type of filter, or those screw in circular types? Also, how bad is the vignetting?

yes, i use tianya filter, but cokin filter holder.. they are interchangeable, i think :)

as a rule of thumb, gnd should not use screw in.. the horizon is fixed there, andyou don't always shoot with the horizon in the same position , if you get what i mean.

the vignetting is very visible IF you do not stop down. f/4 is pretty damn bad, so you should go to f/11, and best f/16, then it will be barely there, and a quick adjustment in raw program (for me i have pentax photo lab) will resolve it quickly with no lasting effect. :)
 

Just got this lens.

Curious, i read the threads mentioning 'gnd'. What's that? Thanks!
 

If you are considering FF in future, can consider Sigma 12-24 as well.

I have both Sigma 12-24 and 10 20.

The 12-24 has to be used with tripod and stopped down to get the best results. Lack of distortion is impressive; so great for buildings.

The 10-20 is wider, faster, more usable and can take filters (my min reason for purchase). Distortion is surprisingly low; tending towards pincushion at wide end.

My old 12- 24 has been in a cupboard since I bought the 10-20 which is superior in almost every way.
 

Hey guys,

Need advice... if you say its gonna cost abt 800-900 SGD,

then is it worthed e buy at vpost? its like 550USD after delivery, meaning 770SGD, inclusive of the D80's battery pack too?

http://vshopusa.vpost.com.sg/aom/shop.php?c=15&n=493964&i=B000V9R3UK&x=Sigma_Zoom_Super_Wide_Angle_10_20mm_f4_56_EX_DC_HSM_Autofocus_Lens_Opteka_Battery_Pack_Grip_2_EN_EL3e_Batteries_3400_mAh_Total_Filters_Accessories_for_Nikon_D80_Digital_SLR_Camera
 

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