Emergency !! Really siao liao.. please advice
- Thread starter myloplex
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pardon me but I do not think f2.8 glass is a necessity. I shot with f4.0 lens all the way, and it was good enough. With flash on of course, but most of the time fill flash.
If you really need fast shutter speed in low-light, use your 50mm f1.8. Fast and sharp. 50mm x 1.6 = 80mm, good enough to get reasonably close up shots without moving in too close.
This is to save you thinking about buying expensive f2.8 lenses, thinking it can get your dramatically good shots for the wedding.
And 17-40 F4L is very sharp even at F4. I don't know why you find it not sharp, maybe cos of mis-focus, or camera shake? I even felt like "heal-brushing" the pimples away from my F4.0 shots with that lens.
I agree with some of the comments. If you're not confident, just shoot with P or that little green square. Don't have to think about settings just concentrate on composition. If you get exposure spot on and great lighting but crap composition, I'm sure the couple won't be able to appreciate it.
If you really need fast shutter speed in low-light, use your 50mm f1.8. Fast and sharp. 50mm x 1.6 = 80mm, good enough to get reasonably close up shots without moving in too close.
This is to save you thinking about buying expensive f2.8 lenses, thinking it can get your dramatically good shots for the wedding.
And 17-40 F4L is very sharp even at F4. I don't know why you find it not sharp, maybe cos of mis-focus, or camera shake? I even felt like "heal-brushing" the pimples away from my F4.0 shots with that lens.
I agree with some of the comments. If you're not confident, just shoot with P or that little green square. Don't have to think about settings just concentrate on composition. If you get exposure spot on and great lighting but crap composition, I'm sure the couple won't be able to appreciate it.
OT: Church wedding always has dry run. Need to know what to do on the actual day, the wedding march, solemnization, the kiss :bsmilie: etc.hwchoy said:
The last photo in norman ng site is very very good, (the rest are good as well).
myloplex, can't help you, no experience in this, but keep cool don't worry, you can make it. :thumbsup:
Maybe ask your friend if you can invite someone to help you then ask for free volunteer with experience(not too many) here, some may want to take for their portfolio.
:thumbsup:
Tweek said:
i agree, but some churches are REALLY dark.
not all of them are open air and have ambient light shining in from all angles..
2.8 gives a very nice DOF blur.. lol.
but then again
if you're a newbie, don't venture into wedding photography yet. that's all i can say.. i haven't tried it but i definitely know it's not easy.
plus there's a lot of post processing to do.. and i really mean ALOT. you can't just throw the couple a print direct from your 10d, it's not going to work. you need the USM, you need the auto levels, the auto contrast, the auto color, the soft focus, the nice borders, etc etc.
shooting is just part of the job man.. but then again, just go out and shoot and if you really need help with the photoshops, get someone pro to help you with it.
oh.. and PLS do work on your composition. i mean what's with shots of the bride from behind the pastor man.. imean you show the back of the pastor in half the shot.. no point leh.. i think just go for the bride close up if you wish
i mean if you're official photog you can actually request for the pastor to move back a little so at least you can take a proper full frame shot of the bride ?
pcwe68 said:
lol i don't have ANY experience in wedding photog but i do have enough experience in events photog.. wondering if they're the same.
and yes i do wanna build up a portfolio for wedding shots and i surely don't mind helping. just gotta know the time and date. but i'm in NS so if it's a weekday then too bad for me
sample of my events : http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=43997
and of course in my webpage below.
Bluestrike
New Member
If you are not even sure of what the lenses that you are going to use, then there is no pooint in shooting.myloplex said:
Know your equipments and thus know yourself.
Myoplex...
Shouldn't you be glad that there are so many kind CSers who are putting themselves up and take the effort to provide you with the answers you need despite all the commotion revolving around you lately? ;p
Just kidding... :bsmilie: :bsmilie:
There are a lot of value in the replies of this thread. Read them carefully.
Keep it simple if you're not too confident. Go with ISO800 to prevent camera shake and to freeze action. Shoot in P or green box(complementing with the high ISO) to keep setting adjustment to the minimum. Determine if the ambient settings are "favourable" enough to use P or G. If its too dark, you should probably need to shoot in M.
When you shoot in M, you don't have to make sure that the EV is firmly at 0 all the time. [Do a search and read past threads on CS on what to do for ROM or wedding shots.] In low light where you do not have luxury of handheldable ambient settings, use your flash. All your need to do is to properly expose your subject with the flash, and let the background darken.
How you may ask? Choose a typically f-stop that is convenient for most applications. I was taught to use 5.6. Select a reasonable shutter speed. For most occassions, my preference is 1/60. Point the middle focus box to your subject and FEL (preferably on the face). Don't do it on black or white clothing... or you'd totally mess up the flash power. Just FEL, recompose and fire. E-TTL will ensure that your subject is adequently exposed. Background? If the ambient requires more than 1/60, then the background will darken... But there's nothing you can do about that.
One note about composition: In low light, since your background is going to darken, it is more important hence to reduce background clutter. As reflected by many others, most of your shoots in your dry run can be classified as in two categories: Closeup and Wide. General impression would be that your Closeup shots are taken from not to pleasant angles; Wide: Too much clutter with no symmetry (personal preference).
Last point: You probably had too much clutter because the 17-40 is rather wide even with the 1.6x. I feel that the 28-135 (44 - 200 equivalent) range would be better. 60+ mm on the long side is really not long enough IMHO. In my limited experience, i would only go wide (28-35mm) in table shots.
Hope the above helps...
Now... be nice. And start behaving properly
Shouldn't you be glad that there are so many kind CSers who are putting themselves up and take the effort to provide you with the answers you need despite all the commotion revolving around you lately? ;p
Just kidding... :bsmilie: :bsmilie:
There are a lot of value in the replies of this thread. Read them carefully.
Keep it simple if you're not too confident. Go with ISO800 to prevent camera shake and to freeze action. Shoot in P or green box(complementing with the high ISO) to keep setting adjustment to the minimum. Determine if the ambient settings are "favourable" enough to use P or G. If its too dark, you should probably need to shoot in M.
When you shoot in M, you don't have to make sure that the EV is firmly at 0 all the time. [Do a search and read past threads on CS on what to do for ROM or wedding shots.] In low light where you do not have luxury of handheldable ambient settings, use your flash. All your need to do is to properly expose your subject with the flash, and let the background darken.
How you may ask? Choose a typically f-stop that is convenient for most applications. I was taught to use 5.6. Select a reasonable shutter speed. For most occassions, my preference is 1/60. Point the middle focus box to your subject and FEL (preferably on the face). Don't do it on black or white clothing... or you'd totally mess up the flash power. Just FEL, recompose and fire. E-TTL will ensure that your subject is adequently exposed. Background? If the ambient requires more than 1/60, then the background will darken... But there's nothing you can do about that.
One note about composition: In low light, since your background is going to darken, it is more important hence to reduce background clutter. As reflected by many others, most of your shoots in your dry run can be classified as in two categories: Closeup and Wide. General impression would be that your Closeup shots are taken from not to pleasant angles; Wide: Too much clutter with no symmetry (personal preference).
Last point: You probably had too much clutter because the 17-40 is rather wide even with the 1.6x. I feel that the 28-135 (44 - 200 equivalent) range would be better. 60+ mm on the long side is really not long enough IMHO. In my limited experience, i would only go wide (28-35mm) in table shots.
Hope the above helps...
Now... be nice. And start behaving properly
NorthernLights
Senior Member
Hi,
I also shot my first ever wedding photography as a backup. Not excellent by most CS standards though...can pass I guess.
Can take a look at my photos. Sometimes, can go closer and crop off part of the hair. Vary the bride and groom in the centre or the composition will look dead boring. Let your creative juice flow...reading too much can kill all the creativity.
I shoot a lot with Av and set my flash mode to 1/200 in the customise. This way can freeze the movement. If you use flash, remember to set WB to k=6000.
Also shoot with flash off with IS0 1600. Mine turned out ok lah. Non flash can set WB =AWB. Especially when you're close to them saying thir vows...flash can be distracting.
Let your creative juice flow...inside there...you're on your own, look through the viewfinder, anticipate what they will do next, think in your mind how best to compose and shoot.
Can also vary the way the camera is held...no need to shoot horizontal or vertical all the time...sometimes diagonal can present a diff feel.
Gather the bridsmaid together with the page boy and flower girl, meke them pose and shoot.
I also shot my first ever wedding photography as a backup. Not excellent by most CS standards though...can pass I guess.
Can take a look at my photos. Sometimes, can go closer and crop off part of the hair. Vary the bride and groom in the centre or the composition will look dead boring. Let your creative juice flow...reading too much can kill all the creativity.
I shoot a lot with Av and set my flash mode to 1/200 in the customise. This way can freeze the movement. If you use flash, remember to set WB to k=6000.
Also shoot with flash off with IS0 1600. Mine turned out ok lah. Non flash can set WB =AWB. Especially when you're close to them saying thir vows...flash can be distracting.
Let your creative juice flow...inside there...you're on your own, look through the viewfinder, anticipate what they will do next, think in your mind how best to compose and shoot.
Can also vary the way the camera is held...no need to shoot horizontal or vertical all the time...sometimes diagonal can present a diff feel.
Gather the bridsmaid together with the page boy and flower girl, meke them pose and shoot.
Well if the subject is backlit with the bright window/sun behind him, the shot may be underexposed, depending on how intelligent Canon's Evaulative Metering is.
For me (me not Canon user), my camera is not that smart and I have to use AE-L to meter off the subject (center weighted) else my camera will be fooled by the bright background and I will have a dark, underexposed subject in the foreground.
For me (me not Canon user
), my camera is not that smart and I have to use AE-L to meter off the subject (center weighted) else my camera will be fooled by the bright background and I will have a dark, underexposed subject in the foreground.
NorthernLights
Senior Member
Winston said:Well if the subject is backlit with the bright window/sun behind him, the shot may be underexposed, depending on how intelligent Canon's Evaulative Metering is.
For me (me not Canon user
Not true.
Also got to use partial metering [()] in a strong backlit situation for Canon ...or shot will be an absolute disaster.
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