[ E-P1 Diary ] - 10 Things I hate about the E-P1


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Yes,press ok,than scroll at the side bar on the top,can re choose your art filters,read the manual if unsure

Oh! Thanks! Haaha. I've been wondering about that but never really bother to check the manual because I don't really use the art filters.
 

Yes,press ok,than scroll at the side bar on the top,can re choose your art filters,read the manual if unsure

for me the one main problem is that i have dirty hands from whiteboard markers during teaching... and my white e-p1 always need a cleaning with zippo at the end of the day =(

go buy zippo shares now, I think as more e-p1 users ard we will buy more zippo and inevitably the share prices will rise

Zippo? U mean the lighter fluid? Maybe that's why they didn't want to put a viewfinder in the cam ... else you'll be sniffin the zippo everytime you put your face near the cam. ;p
 

Oh! Thanks! Haaha. I've been wondering about that but never really bother to check the manual because I don't really use the art filters.

haha,you're welcome,I don't read the manual for operation of any Olympus SLR,lol,I just explore
 

Hey Guys, I bought E-P1 for a few days now. I have been trying many different settings and finally I chose the P mode for 90% of the time. I have also upgraded to Ver. 1.1 and use Class 10 Sandisk SDCard.

The iAuto mode in the E-P1, I think is very poor in detecting proper situation. Definitely poorer than all the Fuji P&S cameras that I have owned. Using iAuto mode makes the camera to perform lower than it should. I kept on getting unimpressive results with iAuto.

When I took a picture of the cityscape, the iAuto and Landscape Scene mode gave me a bluish, pale unbalanced appearance. When I switched to P mode, the color seemed to be more balance, yellowish warm and vibrant. Also with iAuto mode indoor night shooting tends to give me excessive yellowish appearance, and detected the situation as Sunny White Balance truly unusable. With P mode, the AWB accurately adjusted itself. iAuto mode seemed to also produce worse Dynamic Range.

The AF and All Targets also often detected and focused on incorrect objects resulting with the actual object being blurred. Taking picture of a cityscape, AF often returned me with less focused/sharp result. When I take portrait picture with Face Detection On, I would see a white square on the face, but after I took the picture, the face wasn’t even properly focused nor sharp. Manual Focus gave me a much sharper and more focused result. Unlike my P&S F200EXR, it’s a true P&S, just click it and you get a great picture with great color, never had such problem with Auto-mode in Fuji.

Therefore, I stick with P, (S-AF MF)mode, Face Detection turned off, and use Single Target instead of All Targets, and checked the focus manually as well which has been providing me with best sharp results in most situation.

Does anyone else experience the same thing? Anything I did wrong? Based on this experience, it’s hard for me to recommend E-P1 to inexperienced users.
 

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can't comment as I have not used auto mode in years,let alone iAuto which is newer
 

Hi Spidey,

Which mode do you use with E-P1?
 

when I had it for the few days I had it,mainly P,A and art filters
 

Most of the time I just shoot with P (RAW), then add in filters using Master 2.
 

Hey Guys, I bought E-P1 for a few days now. I have been trying many different settings and finally I chose the P mode for 90% of the time. I have also upgraded to Ver. 1.1 and use Class 10 Sandisk SDCard.

The iAuto mode in the E-P1, I think is very poor in detecting proper situation. Definitely poorer than all the Fuji P&S cameras that I have owned. Using iAuto mode makes the camera to perform lower than it should. I kept on getting unimpressive results with iAuto.

I am a even more novice user than you. I got the same feedback with respect to the use of iAuto. I had a family event over the long weekend, on first day of my event, I use iAuto almost entirely, when I view the pics on my Mac that night, a lot of shots were off focus.

I decided to read up the manual and went with P the next day, most of the pics are sharp and able to focus on the object I wanted.

Night portrait is my biggest problem, nearly all of them turned up blur.

Anyone has a good flash to recommend? Would Olympus FL-14 a good buy? Aesthetically it matched the EP-1 best and is going for for about US$100 now in Amazon. Not sure how much is the price locally.
 

I'll use the FL-36/R instead,can bounce and attach diffusers and stuff,way better than FL-14,more powerful too
 

Hey Guys, I bought E-P1 for a few days now. I have been trying many different settings and finally I chose the P mode for 90% of the time. I have also upgraded to Ver. 1.1 and use Class 10 Sandisk SDCard.

The iAuto mode in the E-P1, I think is very poor in detecting proper situation. Definitely poorer than all the Fuji P&S cameras that I have owned. Using iAuto mode makes the camera to perform lower than it should. I kept on getting unimpressive results with iAuto.

When I took a picture of the cityscape, the iAuto and Landscape Scene mode gave me a bluish, pale unbalanced appearance. When I switched to P mode, the color seemed to be more balance, yellowish warm and vibrant. Also with iAuto mode indoor night shooting tends to give me excessive yellowish appearance, and detected the situation as Sunny White Balance truly unusable. With P mode, the AWB accurately adjusted itself. iAuto mode seemed to also produce worse Dynamic Range.

The AF and All Targets also often detected and focused on incorrect objects resulting with the actual object being blurred. Taking picture of a cityscape, AF often returned me with less focused/sharp result. When I take portrait picture with Face Detection On, I would see a white square on the face, but after I took the picture, the face wasn’t even properly focused nor sharp. Manual Focus gave me a much sharper and more focused result. Unlike my P&S F200EXR, it’s a true P&S, just click it and you get a great picture with great color, never had such problem with Auto-mode in Fuji.

Therefore, I stick with P, (S-AF MF)mode, Face Detection turned off, and use Single Target instead of All Targets, and checked the focus manually as well which has been providing me with best sharp results in most situation.

Does anyone else experience the same thing? Anything I did wrong? Based on this experience, it’s hard for me to recommend E-P1 to inexperienced users.

Sounds about right. I as a rule, always use single fixed autofocus. I dun use any of these multi-points AF. Face AF thus is never used....never tried before.

In any case, what is the largest size SD the EP1 can use? WHere can I get it?


Also, just some quick impressions having used it for some nice shots .... indeed quite capable for low light BUT :

1. AF is inaccurate sometimes in low light. AF confirmation on, u shoot, but picture still OOF.
2. AF sometimes unable to lock
3. Image is a bit noisy / grainy for high ISO == about 1600
4. Having trouble getting exposure right for videos ..... unable to adjust the exposure or the shutter or aperture
5. In manual mode, can only adjust aperture = still have not figured out how to adjust shutter speed .... LOL .... not that intuitive
6. Must use flash for low light portraits .... particularly if there is some backlight. There is no way fill light and also, from previous points, I was not sufficiently adept in adjusting exposure. In any case, when shooting people, u gotta use flash generally cos they tend to move and u cannot use too low a shutter speed
7. On the in camera LCD, nearly all photos look good. LOL! Only when u bring home and download and notice about 20% not so good. HAHA. I prefer the other way around, which is more typical of my Oly DSLRs. Perhaps the EP1 LCD is of much better quality than the E3.
8. BUT I must say the white balance is super good! I think better than the E620 leh. Maybe as good as the E3.
 

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5. In manual mode, can only adjust aperture = still have not figured out how to adjust shutter speed .... LOL .... not that intuitive

E-P1 has 2 dials. One for aperture, the other for shuttle speed.
 

Sounds about right. I as a rule, always use single fixed autofocus. I dun use any of these multi-points AF. Face AF thus is never used....never tried before.

In any case, what is the largest size SD the EP1 can use? WHere can I get it?


Also, just some quick impressions having used it for some nice shots .... indeed quite capable for low light BUT :

1. AF is inaccurate sometimes in low light. AF confirmation on, u shoot, but picture still OOF.
2. AF sometimes unable to lock
3. Image is a bit noisy / grainy for high ISO == about 1600
4. Having trouble getting exposure right for videos ..... unable to adjust the exposure or the shutter or aperture
5. In manual mode, can only adjust aperture = still have not figured out how to adjust shutter speed .... LOL .... not that intuitive
6. Must use flash for low light portraits .... particularly if there is some backlight. There is no way fill light and also, from previous points, I was not sufficiently adept in adjusting exposure. In any case, when shooting people, u gotta use flash generally cos they tend to move and u cannot use too low a shutter speed
7. On the in camera LCD, nearly all photos look good. LOL! Only when u bring home and download and notice about 20% not so good. HAHA. I prefer the other way around, which is more typical of my Oly DSLRs. Perhaps the EP1 LCD is of much better quality than the E3.
8. BUT I must say the white balance is super good! I think better than the E620 leh. Maybe as good as the E3.

Shutter speed can be adjusted using the wheel (bottom; black)
 

Thought I switched brand from Cxxxx so that I can stop thinking abt buying lenses, lenses and more lenses... but this EP-1 thingy BBB bug is getting me too... :sweatsm:

P1030275.jpg
 

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mwahaha ... there is the 45mm coming, Leica some more :devil:
 

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