DNP0i$onou$ Clubh0us3 - TCSS Part II


Status
Not open for further replies.
yo krig, when wanna go shoot together, than i can poison myself looking at ya 100mm filters....
hitech and lee rite... ;);)

both brand where to have a look and what kind of price are we looking at?
 

@dd123,
that is some serious poison going on around here.. will take
both lenses into serious consideration before getting them..
and u mention that there are some issues with the older batch
of the 20mm with nikon bodies right? I suppose there shouldn't
be anymore older batch of lenses goig on aorund in shops
already? they should be 'recalled' or something like that?
besides that is just the front/back focusing issues that one may
encounter at the point of purchase right?

Front and back focusing is still inherent on Sigma lenses till this day. So when you get a sigma lens, you have to bring it into Sigma SC @redhill to get it calibrated for free. If your set is grey set, you will have to pay $80 for each calibration. That is why I recommend getting a local set. And calibration takes 2-3 hours to complete. Mine took longer because the technician was away on leave, so the senior (head??) technician did it for me, which might explain why my lens is so damn sharp now... :bsmilie:

The serious problem with the older batch is not about the front/back focusing. It is with underexposure when shooting with matrix mode. You need to read my evaluation in detail to understand what I was saying there. Also in that review, you should be also able to see that I was able to recreate that problem of the lens being soft when focusing on infinity or far objects @ max aperture. I am not sure if this is a problem specific to this piece I was testing, or it was an issue in the older batch or the problem is actually in the design of this lens. So when you are testing the 20/1.8 you need to test for this as well. This problem is also reported by several reviewers on the net.

With all these issues (or potential issues), coupled with the fact that the 20/1.8 sport a 82mm filter thread, I decided to pass on this lens. The 24/1.8 turned out to be a keeper, sharp even wide open, just the right size in handling and very nice IQ. And it is around 160 cheaper than the 20/1.8 too. If you really think about it, when mounted on the DX, the difference between 24mm and 20mm is just half a step backwards. I can simulate the same FOV by just leaning backwards a little bit. No big deal for me. And when (and if) I get a FX body, 24mm will be just nice as a wide prime. 20mm on a FX will be a little too wide for people shots.
 

Last edited:
dd123, very good write out and reading with BBB urgue.... :sweat:


Hitech - TK
Lee - CP and TK

On the topic of BBB, there are a lot of commerical sellers in Mass Sale, are their prices better than reputated shops above since some do not have to pay rent etc? :think::think:
 

On the topic of BBB, there are a lot of commerical sellers in Mass Sale, are their prices better than reputated shops above since some do not have to pay rent etc? :think::think:

I've yet to see mass sale sellers selling Hitech or Lee filters.

But for B+W and Hoya, yes their prices are lower compared to the stores. This is possible due to a lower cost structure compared to a brick and mortar store.

But always double check pricing. Some items are priced the same or even higher than stores. And recently quite a few mass sellers have set up shop and have their own stores as well.
 

If you guys are meeting next Wednesday count me in hor. And Also on the studio thing, I am also interested. ZCA, can bring your Tokina 11-16 for me to try out?
 

Last edited:
Got my 11-16 ytr and the seller gimmi this-

HOYA 77 PL CIR UV HRT.

In CS I found the below. Is the 1 I have listed below??

1) Filter 77mm UV Hoya HMC Filter 鏡片
2) Filter 77mm UV Hoya SMC Pro1 Filter 鏡片
3) Filter 77mm CPL Hoya Pro1 DMC Digital
4) Filter 77mm CPL Hoya Filter 鏡片
5) Filter 77mm ND4 Hoya Filter 鏡片

Below this the link for the filter I have.

http://www.hoya-online.co.uk/Hoya-CircPL-UV-Filter-new-HRT-77mm.htm

just wanna know the price range.

ps:i know I can call n chk but just wan a quicky. :embrass::embrass:
 

@zca, @skylover,
relax guys.. the model I'm refering to are not
professional model.. gf/friends/wife are too
considered model if they are the subjects of
the shoot.. don't get me wrong.. :)
hahaha so you not referring to professional model... ooops! Sorry for the misunderstanding.
ok then you guys think if this whole studio idea is acceptable (seems like it is), then figure out when would be an ideal timing (weekday evening, weekend morning/afternoon/evening).
 

If you guys are meeting next Wednesday count me in hor. And Also on the studio thing, I am also interested. ZCA, can bring your Tokina 11-16 for me to try out?
me no have 11-16 :) I have the Tokina 12-24 f/4

DD123 is the one with this lens, and I think there are more people with it now... :)
 

Front and back focusing is still inherent on Sigma lenses till this day. So when you get a sigma lens, you have to bring it into Sigma SC @redhill to get it calibrated for free. If your set is grey set, you will have to pay $80 for each calibration. That is why I recommend getting a local set. And calibration takes 2-3 hours to complete. Mine took longer because the technician was away on leave, so the senior (head??) technician did it for me, which might explain why my lens is so damn sharp now... :bsmilie:

The serious problem with the older batch is not about the front/back focusing. It is with underexposure when shooting with matrix mode. You need to read my evaluation in detail to understand what I was saying there. Also in that review, you should be also able to see that I was able to recreate that problem of the lens being soft when focusing on infinity or far objects @ max aperture. I am not sure if this is a problem specific to this piece I was testing, or it was an issue in the older batch or the problem is actually in the design of this lens. So when you are testing the 20/1.8 you need to test for this as well. This problem is also reported by several reviewers on the net.

With all these issues (or potential issues), coupled with the fact that the 20/1.8 sport a 82mm filter thread, I decided to pass on this lens. The 24/1.8 turned out to be a keeper, sharp even wide open, just the right size in handling and very nice IQ. And it is around 160 cheaper than the 20/1.8 too. If you really think about it, when mounted on the DX, the difference between 24mm and 20mm is just half a step backwards. I can simulate the same FOV by just leaning backwards a little bit. No big deal for me. And when (and if) I get a FX body, 24mm will be just nice as a wide prime. 20mm on a FX will be a little too wide for people shots.
good to read your evaluation on this lens, bro :)

But I'm still trying to stay immune to your 'poison' for as long as possible!! :angel:
 

Wow... new clubhouse. Is this the previous-D90 thread that I didn't have? ;)
 

Wow... new clubhouse. Is this the previous-D90 thread that I didn't have? ;)
hahahah yes.... trying to be more inclusive, apparently.... :)
Don't ask me about the thread title...
 

Got my 11-16 ytr and the seller gimmi this-

HOYA 77 PL CIR UV HRT.

In CS I found the below. Is the 1 I have listed below??

1) Filter 77mm UV Hoya HMC Filter 鏡片
2) Filter 77mm UV Hoya SMC Pro1 Filter 鏡片
3) Filter 77mm CPL Hoya Pro1 DMC Digital
4) Filter 77mm CPL Hoya Filter 鏡片
5) Filter 77mm ND4 Hoya Filter 鏡片

Below this the link for the filter I have.

http://www.hoya-online.co.uk/Hoya-CircPL-UV-Filter-new-HRT-77mm.htm

just wanna know the price range.

ps:i know I can call n chk but just wan a quicky. :embrass::embrass:


HRT is the newest offering from Hoya. It is supposed to be very good, inheriting the same high transmission glass from the top-of-the-line HD series, but without the scratch/knock resistant coating. It is also UV adsorbing which will reduce the typical blue cast you get from many other CPLs.

read more here:
http://dpnow.com/6884.html
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/pma/2010/iii.htm - near the end.
http://www.dcviews.com/press/hoya-hrt.htm
 

HRT is the newest offering from Hoya. It is supposed to be very good, inheriting the same high transmission glass from the top-of-the-line HD series, but without the scratch/knock resistant coating. It is also UV adsorbing which will reduce the typical blue cast you get from many other CPLs.

read more here:
http://dpnow.com/6884.html
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/pma/2010/iii.htm - near the end.
http://www.dcviews.com/press/hoya-hrt.htm

:thumbsup::thumbsup: You are superz. 谢谢你。Now must get my old CD holder to hold filters. Dunno can or not :think::think:
 

:thumbsup::thumbsup: You are superz. 谢谢你。Now must get my old CD holder to hold filters. Dunno can or not :think::think:

Should be fine for cokin P filters or ring filters. But 100mm GND filters will not fit.
 

Got my 11-16 ytr and the seller gimmi this-

HOYA 77 PL CIR UV HRT.

In CS I found the below. Is the 1 I have listed below??

1) Filter 77mm UV Hoya HMC Filter 鏡片
2) Filter 77mm UV Hoya SMC Pro1 Filter 鏡片
3) Filter 77mm CPL Hoya Pro1 DMC Digital
4) Filter 77mm CPL Hoya Filter 鏡片
5) Filter 77mm ND4 Hoya Filter 鏡片

Below this the link for the filter I have.

http://www.hoya-online.co.uk/Hoya-CircPL-UV-Filter-new-HRT-77mm.htm

just wanna know the price range.

ps:i know I can call n chk but just wan a quicky. :embrass::embrass:

how much u gotten your's?
 

What is meant by front/back focus? From what i've seen it seems like sigma lenses usually come with this issue?
 

What is meant by front/back focus? From what i've seen it seems like sigma lenses usually come with this issue?

Front focusing means, when the picture is taken, the area of sharp focus is at a point in front of area where I focused it using the AF point.

back focusing means the area of sharp focus is behind the AF point location.

It happens with some 3rd party lenses. Because they pretty manufacture the same lens and put on different mounts after. there are 2 ways to calibrate the AF, one is to do it in the camera using AF micro adjustments (called "AF tuning" in Nikon) which are usually available in higher end camera bodies, or just get the lens adjusted physically (by a technician or service center). Some brands do not really come with this problem, probably they have a process that will calibrate the lens according to the lens mount it is being manufactured in. This will definitely increase costs, and that cost will translate to higher price. For Sigma, no problems, just bring your lens and your camera into sigma SC for a free calibration and they will adjust it nicely for you.
 

Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top