developing tri-x 400 @ iso 320
- Thread starter dtkky
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Did your own developing before or not?
Many resources on the web, can look up to chiif's website and see the devloping page. You could also read the stickies in this sub-forum.
So you shot Tri-X accidentally at 320?
In that case, you should develop normally (400) or maybe just ~5% less.
Don't rush if you just started, load the film slowly, make sure you don't damage or bend the film while loading in the darkroom/changing bag, prepare chemicals and make sure it's at the desired temperature.
You can go download the Tri-X technical data and see the developing times.
Do take note if you use the HC-110 developer, Kodak Tri-X timings is very weird.
So you shot Tri-X accidentally at 320?
In that case, you should develop normally (400) or maybe just ~5% less.
Don't rush if you just started, load the film slowly, make sure you don't damage or bend the film while loading in the darkroom/changing bag, prepare chemicals and make sure it's at the desired temperature.
You can go download the Tri-X technical data and see the developing times.
Do take note if you use the HC-110 developer, Kodak Tri-X timings is very weird.
Thanks for the advice. I have been reading a lot on the web but need advice as to what developer to get (meaning what is available locally). I shot it at iso 320 intentionally. This advice was given to me by the uncle at Ruby. Also, I have read on the web that Tri-X is best shot slightly over-exposed ie. iso 200-320 for better details in the shadows.
David
David
Ah, so you shot it intentionally.
The term used by many old timers is,
"Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights"
Which basically means exposing for the shadow details, and reducing development to make sure the highlight doesn't get blown out.
Anyways, reduce development by around 5% will do. (Or more if the scene is really contrasty)
TMax Dev is easy to use and get, but is quite expensive.
try some of the recipe I've used on my films and developer combo, have fun
http://www.gregchoongphotography.com/newbie_bw.htm
http://www.gregchoongphotography.com/newbie_bw.htm
just process at it is, rate at ISO 400, you were told to overexposed the negative a little, is one third stop anyway, why would you want to pull process it?
btw, it is not much different too, since the tri-x has very large exposure latitude. and also it is easier to get good results from a "thick" negative than a "thin" negative
btw, it is not much different too, since the tri-x has very large exposure latitude. and also it is easier to get good results from a "thick" negative than a "thin" negative
My Recipe -
Works for me, don't know about others
HC-110 Dilution (H) // 1:63 (5ml Concentrate / 315ml Water)
Illford Rapid Fixer
x4 300ml Bottled Water (Same type of bottle used in Dev and Fixer, my Green Tea Bottles)
Throw all the 6 bottles in the freezer to get them to 24ºC (Takes about 7minutes 30seconds from ~29.5ºC)
Load film in the Dev Tank in a changing bang
Check temperature, if its too cold, I'll surf the net for 5 minutes, too warm, back to freezer,
Get my iPod Touch Stopwatch ready, pour Developer in the Tank and press start.
4 Slow inversions for the first 20 seconds, 1 Slow inversion every minute after.
At 9minutes 25seconds, pour out developer into the toilet bowl.
Then pour in the chilled water for 30 seconds rinse, about 20 inversions.
Then pour the fixer, followed bottle instructions. 3minutes 30seconds (25 seconds, 5 seconds to pour out)
Then Illford Rinse using the last 3 chilled bottles.
Works for me, don't know about others
HC-110 Dilution (H) // 1:63 (5ml Concentrate / 315ml Water)
Illford Rapid Fixer
x4 300ml Bottled Water (Same type of bottle used in Dev and Fixer, my Green Tea Bottles)
Throw all the 6 bottles in the freezer to get them to 24ºC (Takes about 7minutes 30seconds from ~29.5ºC)
Load film in the Dev Tank in a changing bang
Check temperature, if its too cold, I'll surf the net for 5 minutes, too warm, back to freezer,
Get my iPod Touch Stopwatch ready, pour Developer in the Tank and press start.
4 Slow inversions for the first 20 seconds, 1 Slow inversion every minute after.
At 9minutes 25seconds, pour out developer into the toilet bowl.
Then pour in the chilled water for 30 seconds rinse, about 20 inversions.
Then pour the fixer, followed bottle instructions. 3minutes 30seconds (25 seconds, 5 seconds to pour out)
Then Illford Rinse using the last 3 chilled bottles.
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I documented those based on 135 however I shot alot of 120 Tri-x using the same recipe and the results were consistent. The only thing you need to factor in is when you agitate a 120 tank, you need to make sure roll(s) are evenly developed. I used to develop a 2 rolls of 120 at one go so I used a stirrer to spin the axel holding the reels instead of flipping the tank as it was heavy and inconsistency might occur as a result.
shooting tri-x at 200-320 and developing it at 400 has always been the best combination for me.
Greg
my way to maintain consistent temperature is to develop it in an air-con environment. As I usually have my tri-x in 25c, also a typical aircon temperature, I only need to have the water settle (no ice, no fridge/warming etc) and you have a consistent 7 min developing throughout, that takes away this inconsistency factor our of your equation and just concentrate on the rest.
Just my 2 cents.
Greg
Just my 2 cents.
Greg
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