developing colored film with b/w developer?

[sinned79]

Happen to chance on this site:
Hongdae in… color? « Devin Marron Jones

Looks very interesting... i never know i can develop color films with b/w developer!

anyone try this before?

 

[Shadowleong]

You will get a strong orange cast if i rmb correctly, read online awhile ago

 

[sinned79]

You will get a strong orange cast if i rmb correctly, read online awhile ago

but the cast is on the film or even during when i scan out?

from that link I read... it appears the scanned photos looks more greyish... which i though isn't that bad... cos i always like more greys then black in my b/w photos.

 

[Riotbmx]

Lordpain was telling me about this the other night. I'm going through a roll of colour negs right now to try this

 

[sinned79]

Lordpain was telling me about this the other night. I'm going through a roll of colour negs right now to try this

cool! let me know how is the result.

and also... if the processing workflow is the same as what you are doing for b/w films.

 

[devinjoness]

Hi there! Thanks for checking out my blog.

I have officially gotten the color film in black and white chemicals out of my system! It was fun, but there are quite a few drawbacks. Your exposure range is hampered quite a bit, which can be cool or incredibly limiting. It's not so great for night shots. Also, the orange color cast is a factor. If you print in the darkroom, I wouldn't recommend this method.

The photos are grey, but you can add the black later in photoshop. The grain character is quite different, at least with the Agfa stuff that I shot. If you muck around with it too much in post-processing, you'll notice that the grain gets ugly fast. You might find it to your liking though. Here's an example:

devinjones(dot)4ormat(dot)com/black-box-korea#15 (can't link, sorry!)

Also, there's a big flickr community based around the concept. They do much better work than I do, I think. One of the reasons mine look rough is because I push it two stops. I like the look, but it's not for everyone. They've got a lot of great links and examples over here:

flickr(dot)com(slash)groups(slash)c41inbw(slash)

Let me know if you give it a try! I'd love to see your results!

Cheers!

 

[sinned79]

Hi there! Thanks for checking out my blog.

I have officially gotten the color film in black and white chemicals out of my system! It was fun, but there are quite a few drawbacks. Your exposure range is hampered quite a bit, which can be cool or incredibly limiting. It's not so great for night shots. Also, the orange color cast is a factor. If you print in the darkroom, I wouldn't recommend this method.

The photos are grey, but you can add the black later in photoshop. The grain character is quite different, at least with the Agfa stuff that I shot. If you muck around with it too much in post-processing, you'll notice that the grain gets ugly fast. You might find it to your liking though. Here's an example:

devinjones(dot)4ormat(dot)com/black-box-korea#15 (can't link, sorry!)

Also, there's a big flickr community based around the concept. They do much better work than I do, I think. One of the reasons mine look rough is because I push it two stops. I like the look, but it's not for everyone. They've got a lot of great links and examples over here:

flickr(dot)com(slash)groups(slash)c41inbw(slash)

Let me know if you give it a try! I'd love to see your results!

Cheers!

thanks for the flickr link!

 

[lordpain]

Lordpain was telling me about this the other night. I'm going through a roll of colour negs right now to try this

raytoei is the man to look for in the forum, he was the one that told me it was possible. i believe he has experimented enough on bw chemicals with c41 films to be able to share his experience.

 

[oceanpriest]

raytoei is the man to look for in the forum, he was the one that told me it was possible. i believe he has experimented enough on bw chemicals with c41 films to be able to share his experience.

+1 for raytoei. I remember he developed ilford xp2 super in rodinal, result is really nice.

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/traditional-darkroom/785256-i-forgot-good-xp-2-rodinal.html

 

[crispy12]

I've done this before but only with a cheap $99 scanner so my scans were horrible because of orange cast. The colour cast doesn't matter in BW scanning, the scanner will desaturate the image. The dynamic range was quite low due to my cheapo scanner, I think if I used the plustek now it would be much better. The process is exactly the same, but result has only one colour of course.

Anyway the only reason I did it is because I got some cheap $1 rolls and wanted to practice developing at home for the first time. Quite useful to practice loading the dev tank with cheap film. My later attempt with proper BW film (HP5) was so much better though, in terms of tone, detail, range!

Edit: attached some of my old shots. Sorry the photos are terrible, this was my first time using a film camera

 

[sinned79]

I've done this before but only with a cheap $99 scanner so my scans were horrible because of orange cast. The colour cast doesn't matter in BW scanning, the scanner will desaturate the image. The dynamic range was quite low due to my cheapo scanner, I think if I used the plustek now it would be much better. The process is exactly the same, but result has only one colour of course.

Anyway the only reason I did it is because I got some cheap $1 rolls and wanted to practice developing at home for the first time. Quite useful to practice loading the dev tank with cheap film. My later attempt with proper BW film (HP5) was so much better though, in terms of tone, detail, range!

Edit: attached some of my old shots. Sorry the photos are terrible, this was my first time using a film camera

thanks for sharing! i will try this weekend.

 

[iggy]

It's been awhile since I've done this, if I recall correctly, you can increase the contrast with farmer's reducer. I'd start with a high acutance developer like Rodinol if one can still find it.

With any colour film, you're not going to get grain, but dye globs, which differs greatly from the look of real silver.

Hope this helps.

 

[sinned79]

It's been awhile since I've done this, if I recall correctly, you can increase the contrast with farmer's reducer. I'd start with a high acutance developer like Rodinol if one can still find it.

With any colour film, you're not going to get grain, but dye globs, which differs greatly from the look of real silver.

Hope this helps.

can i use developer like HC 110?

 

[iggy]

can i use developer like HC 110?

You could, but you'll need to experiment with the dilutions. I'd do two strip tests (possibly three), one after another, if I were really serious. First for dilution, second for intensity of agitation and the third for the reducer.

There's another variable to be thrown into the mix if anyone is interested ...temperature sensitivity differ between pro and amateur films. The latter will allow you to cook it a bit more.

 

[sinned79]

You could, but you'll need to experiment with the dilutions. I'd do two strip tests (possibly three), one after another, if I were really serious. First for dilution, second for intensity of agitation and the third for the reducer.

There's another variable to be thrown into the mix if anyone is interested ...temperature sensitivity differ between pro and amateur films. The latter will allow you to cook it a bit more.

icic...i never used farmer reducer before... what happens if i omit this step? less contrast?

 

[iggy]

icic...i never used farmer reducer before... what happens if i omit this step? less contrast?

It's not going to be easy to get, to be honest as it is VERY nasty stuff. Oh well, slightly toned down version of VERY nasty stuff - FR's main ingredient is potassium ferricyanide (potassium ferricyanide as a powder has the most beautiful shade of orange, btw). I've not used FR ever, but did make my own solution of potassium ferricyanide and potassium bromide.

You can do without FR, but I'd really suggest you do the strip tests (based on the image image and the same lighting conditions). That way, you'll be able to replicate the results.

There's actually a way to reduce the cast somewhat, but I won't go into that cos it's extremely noxious and caustic. Also, unless you have direct access (and I mean to be able to touch the actual liquids) to chemistry in the labs, you won't be able to do/try this.

 

[iggy]

icic...i never used farmer reducer before... what happens if i omit this step? less contrast?

Oops, sorry - yes ...less contrast.

 

[sinned79]

Here's the result of my experiment!

Shots shot with Agfa Color Vista 400. Developed in HC 110 B Dilution (5 mins) , edited on Lightroom 3 (desaturate + punch + auto tone). Quite like this result:

​

more photo results on my facebook.

 

[Riotbmx]

Here's the result of my experiment!

Shots shot with Agfa Color Vista 400. Developed in HC 110 B Dilution (5 mins) , edited on Lightroom 3 (desaturate + punch + auto tone). Quite like this result:





more photo results on my facebook.

Temperature?

 

[sinned79]

Temperature?

think ard 24-28 degrees... didn't really pay note :x