D7000 users...fall in!!! Part 3


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Work in crisis m dangerous situation. Far away from comfort zone n family frens. Live in condition ppl cant imagine, they better pay well sia. Dunno if any of our SG mates ever make it this big....will be proud of them...work featured in Times, NatGeo....wow....envy....
 

There's a reason why they're called masters of photography you know... Plus they go around to document things like African tribes (so you live there and suffer their lack of food), tigers (waiting in a tent silently for 6 hours), away from your homeland, etc.
 

Masters is an understatement. For me they shld be given honorary doctorate....especially for their guts n bravery to go thru this pain n extent just for photography. Even when u r good in photography, u r still not the best. These guys r world...heheh
 

seezhijie said:
There's a reason why they're called masters of photography you know... Plus they go around to document things like African tribes (so you live there and suffer their lack of food), tigers (waiting in a tent silently for 6 hours), away from your homeland, etc.

So many photojournalists died during conflicts that they are covering
 

Hello Seniors

I am not happy with d7000 + 18-105 kit, no good pictures than my canon 600d that I had earlier.

Although, I am a beginner, and it's easy to finger at the machine, I need some advice to get over this camera not so good mind set.

Indoor pics are no that crisp, sharp, glossy feeling like the ones clicked with canon 600d.

Do I need some tips, already read the manual 2 times, tried auto mode also.
What is front-back focus issue that i read online, could it be related.

Help fellas, otherwise how will I sleep :-)
 

Hello Seniors

I am not happy with d7000 + 18-105 kit, no good pictures than my canon 600d that I had earlier.

Although, I am a beginner, and it's easy to finger at the machine, I need some advice to get over this camera not so good mind set.

Indoor pics are no that crisp, sharp, glossy feeling like the ones clicked with canon 600d.

Do I need some tips, already read the manual 2 times, tried auto mode also.
What is front-back focus issue that i read online, could it be related.

Help fellas, otherwise how will I sleep :-)

got photos to see the difference u talking about?
 

got photos to see the difference u talking about?

Here an example, focus on left eye..
photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67197684@N05/7027418833/meta/in/photostream/
Flickr picture is not high resolution, as I don't have a pro account yet. But anyway, picture is not sharp, grainy, and can't see skin clearly when i zoom in even a little.
 

Here an example, focus on left eye..
photostream

Exif | DSC_4438 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Flickr picture is not high resolution, as I don't have a pro account yet. But anyway, picture is not sharp, grainy, and can't see skin clearly when i zoom in even a little.

Focusing looks fine to me and you are shooting at ISO 2000, of course the image looks grainy when you zoom in, it's called noise. Also, not sure if you realise, you are shooting at 1/30s, any blurriness could be caused by your hands shaking or a little movement by the child.
 

The lack of sharpness is probably due to your high iso value. It will cause image noise. Unavoidable though the d7k can correct it better then most other cameras. Secondly, you're shooting at 105mm with 1/30 shutter speed. I would recommend your shutter speed to be at least the reciprocal of the focal length ie: at 100mm use 1/100 shutter speed etc this should eliminate most movement blurs from your side.

The reason for such a setting may be because of the low lighting yes? In that case you should either use a flash or turn on the lights around your subject to illuminate her and this allowing a lower oso and higher shutter speed

It's not the camera but the photographer, in this case. :) hope you did not dump the canon 60d because of something like this haha.
 

spree86 said:
Focusing looks fine to me and you are shooting at ISO 2000, of course the image looks grainy when you zoom in, it's called noise. Also, not sure if you realise, you are shooting at 1/30s, any blurriness could be caused by your hands shaking or a little movement by the child.

Many thanks, I will retry as you suggested. Cheers
 

Fudgecakes said:
The lack of sharpness is probably due to your high iso value. It will cause image noise. Unavoidable though the d7k can correct it better then most other cameras. Secondly, you're shooting at 105mm with 1/30 shutter speed. I would recommend your shutter speed to be at least the reciprocal of the focal length ie: at 100mm use 1/100 shutter speed etc this should eliminate most movement blurs from your side.

The reason for such a setting may be because of the low lighting yes? In that case you should either use a flash or turn on the lights around your subject to illuminate her and this allowing a lower oso and higher shutter speed

It's not the camera but the photographer, in this case. :) hope you did not dump the canon 60d because of something like this haha.

Thank you sir, I will retry with the new tips, appreciate your time :-)

I dumped canon because of its toy camera feeling and noisy shutter. Baby wakes up every time I clicked with it lol

Have a good day ahead.
 

Harkamals said:
Thank you sir, I will retry with the new tips, appreciate your time :-)

I dumped canon because of its toy camera feeling and noisy shutter. Baby wakes up every time I clicked with it lol

Have a good day ahead.

You too ya :)
 

Thank you sir, I will retry with the new tips, appreciate your time :-)

I dumped canon because of its toy camera feeling and noisy shutter. Baby wakes up every time I clicked with it lol

Have a good day ahead.

Here are some tips that I find useful.

Roughly speaking, the amount of light hitting the sensor is called "exposure". A photo is "correctly exposed" if the amount of light is just right in bringing out all the details of the scene. Too much and the photo is "over exposed". Too little, it is "under exposed". Your camera has a meter that checks if it is correct.
Three things determine exposure: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO sensitivity. To achieve the same amount of light, different combinations of these 3 can be used. However, the different combination has other effect on your photographic outcome. Aperture affects depth of field (your "bokeh" effect). Shutter speed affects motion blur. ISO affects "graininess" - noise.

For the D7000, here are some useful tip:

1. For ISO, go as low as possible. But do not exceed 1600. I find that the noise above 1600 is quite bad in general. Depending on the scene composition, lighting condition, and how desperate you are in getting the shot, ISO 3200 is ok-ish.

2. For shutter speed, as mentioned, ensure at least it is 1/f where f is the focal length. But do remember the 1.5x crop factor. So if you are at 100mm, then you have to multiply by 1.5 and have the shutter speed to be at least 1/150. With VR, and a very steady hand, you may be able to cheat a notch or two on this. But if your subject is moving, then you have need a faster shutter. My experience with birds, for example, need at least 1/500 sec or more to "freeze" the motion.

3. For aperture, bear in mind that lenses are generally sharpest one-stop or two lower. For the lens you are using, I suggest you google for the technical charts that people obtained from testing. It will give you an idea which f-number for your particular lens is the sharpest. "Sharpest" means that, for example, lines are well defined, or the transition from the black part of a thick line to the white background is well defined instead of blurry. However, sometimes, bokeh matters more. Your judgement call.

Generally, I use "A" mode to get the depth of field I want, then let the camera meter and see if the shutter speed is good enough (the exposure bar should read zero or near zero). If not, bump up the ISO.

Hope this helps.
 

thanks, i got my nifty 35mm today from SLR Revolution in Funan. Good sharp lens, tried and chose it over Sigma 30mm 1.4.

Sigma has good shaprness and bokeh, but pricy at 780 and build quality not matching my expectations 2.5/5 stars, feels like gear box inside, sends out a sudden jerk when focusing.

Nikon 35mm is quite and nice, bit plastic though, but good for its price.
Here's a better sharp shot :-)
DSC_5192 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
 

Harkamals said:
thanks, i got my nifty 35mm today from SLR Revolution in Funan. Good sharp lens, tried and chose it over Sigma 30mm 1.4.

Sigma has good shaprness and bokeh, but pricy at 780 and build quality not matching my expectations 2.5/5 stars, feels like gear box inside, sends out a sudden jerk when focusing.

Nikon 35mm is quite and nice, bit plastic though, but good for its price.
Here's a better sharp shot :-)
DSC_5192 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Curious but how much did u get it for?
 

thanks, i got my nifty 35mm today from SLR Revolution in Funan. Good sharp lens, tried and chose it over Sigma 30mm 1.4.

Sigma has good shaprness and bokeh, but pricy at 780 and build quality not matching my expectations 2.5/5 stars, feels like gear box inside, sends out a sudden jerk when focusing.

Nikon 35mm is quite and nice, bit plastic though, but good for its price.
Here's a better sharp shot :-)
DSC_5192 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Congrats! You will enjoy it.
 

thanks, i got my nifty 35mm today from SLR Revolution in Funan. Good sharp lens, tried and chose it over Sigma 30mm 1.4.

Sigma has good shaprness and bokeh, but pricy at 780 and build quality not matching my expectations 2.5/5 stars, feels like gear box inside, sends out a sudden jerk when focusing.

Nikon 35mm is quite and nice, bit plastic though, but good for its price.
Here's a better sharp shot :-)
DSC_5192 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Very useful for street photograph too. . Sharp, fast for candid shoots and one of the reasonable price for Nikon lens. Good decision.
 

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