D7000 user...fall in!!!

[Nubzz]

The 18-55mm + 55-200mm is a lot cheaper than the 18-200mm while giving better IQ at lower build quality.
The 18-200mm is very convenient as a single lens, but if you have the money and time to switch lenses, the 17-55mm f2.8 + 70-200mm/80-200mm f2.8 is an amazing combination. If you don't want to spend so much, I would suggest the 18-55mm + 55-200mm/70-300mm.

Hit the nail right on the dot.
To add on, the reason for getting 2 lens to cover that range is due to IQ, at the cost of a higher budget as well as the hassle of changing the lenses.
For me, I have a 17-50 f2.8 tamron (with a 55-200 or 70-300 in future), which beats the 18-200 (if u're comparing only the equipment) but comes at a higher cost instead.

 

[fmeeran]

thanks! now I know why lolx.

btw wad exactly does a better IQ do?

IQ is image quality.
18-200mm is a little less sharp and has more distortions.
All superzooms have compromises to have the range.

 

[RB26DETT]

why not get the 17-55 since the D7000 is a crop body which will make ur 17-55 to about 25-80 there about.

and by getting 24-70 on a crop body u totally lose ur option to shoot wide angles unless u are okay with switching lens all the time when u need the wider angle.

I've considered the 17-55 also, but the 17-24 range is not as critical for me. I mean its a good range to have, but not really a deal breaker.

The 24-70 on a DX is a very portrait-ty range to me, while the 17-55 is more like an everyday lens.

That being said, both lenses can do a similar job with certain limitations.

I do have an UWA to cover the wider areas, and do not mind changing lens.

Therefore my question initially was regarding the AF speed and the picture it produces as in colour, contrast, sharpness at F2.8 etc.

 

[SAMUELS]

I think VR will definitely help in low light. For example, shooting stage performances. I had to bump up iso to get comfortable non-VR shots. Other than that , in good light, I don't see the need for VR. I would have chosen the 70-200 if not for a fact that it costs 3 times more.

It's more for when you are shooting low light and have to have longer exposures. Both lenses should perform the same at fast speeds.

Yup. both are fantastic lenses. but I tend to shoot at at least 1/200 even in low light to freeze action (concerts, stage performances) so VR is not that obvious.

No doubt, the VR was very helpful at the 200mm tele end when I sneak my 70-200 into concerts and have to hand hold at 200mm amongst the crowd.

 

[SAMUELS]

All those "problems" were caused by idiots operating the camera outside specified parameters and then complaining about it.

Agreed. how can people expect a camera to perform normally when their 'tests' are beyond normal camera usage?

 

[twisted illusion]

Hi, any one know which of the 9 af sensor are crossed type.. I goggle and found many said that the centre 9 are crossed type.. But my own trials shows that the most center af point is always the surest during low light.. Non of the surrounding 8 af PT come close to the centre af speed.. I cannot locate the cross sensors in the manual as well.. Need to know where.. To nail the shots I need at low light.. Thks

 

[fmeeran]

Hi, any one know which of the 9 af sensor are crossed type.. I goggle and found many said that the centre 9 are crossed type.. But my own trials shows that the most center af point is always the surest during low light.. Non of the surrounding 8 af PT come close to the centre af speed.. I cannot locate the cross sensors in the manual as well.. Need to know where.. To nail the shots I need at low light.. Thks

Just checked. The centre 9. At least on my D7k.

 

[twisted illusion]

Just checked. The centre 9. At least on my D7k.

your centre 9 af pt can lite up your af assist lamp? mine only the centre af pt can lite up the af assist lamp..
i read most forum else where also state the centre 9 are crossed type... but for mine, non of the 8 other af pt is as sure as the centre af pt...
abit sian, need to use some lock to make it work or just crop the pic...

 

[Cowseye]

I dun think the AF-assist lamp lighting up or not has anything to do with which AF point you are at right now. Even if so, I should be more logical that non-cross type AF point will light the AF-assist lamp on as they are less sensitive.

 

[twisted illusion]

I dun think the AF-assist lamp lighting up or not has anything to do with which AF point you are at right now. Even if so, I should be more logical that non-cross type AF point will light the AF-assist lamp on as they are less sensitive.

I cannot locate answer within your reply.

 

[fmeeran]

your centre 9 af pt can lite up your af assist lamp? mine only the centre af pt can lite up the af assist lamp..
i read most forum else where also state the centre 9 are crossed type... but for mine, non of the 8 other af pt is as sure as the centre af pt...
abit sian, need to use some lock to make it work or just crop the pic...

Hadn't noticed it before. Yes. Only centre point uses AF assist lamp. All other points don't use it.

Having said that, I never use AF assist lamp as I find it distracting. Especially when I don't want the person being photographed to know I'm taking a snap. When I'm not shooting a person, most of my shots are on the 150-500mm where it doesn't help. So rather than fiddle with the menus everytime it is always set to off.

But I find the all 9 central AF points to be equally good at acquiring focus lock without the AF assist.
I would suggest a good flash light to help focus lock. There was someone on the forum who had suggested it earlier and it works well.

 

[peterchew]

Thanks for the advises given. Count me in cause I have got hold of this camera in my bag now. Will post here if I run into any problem but do not expect any cause I be using for photo taking only.

 

[twisted illusion]

Am using a sb-600 with af assist lamp set to on as well.. But still only the most center af PT can lock focus fast without hunting.. Rest of the af point my lens will hunt 80% - 95 % of the time.. No really dark.. Street lamp condition.. Sightz.. Read the manual.. Dnt really find a page on it..

Hadn't noticed it before. Yes. Only centre point uses AF assist lamp. All other points don't use it.

Having said that, I never use AF assist lamp as I find it distracting. Especially when I don't want the person being photographed to know I'm taking a snap. When I'm not shooting a person, most of my shots are on the 150-500mm where it doesn't help. So rather than fiddle with the menus everytime it is always set to off.

But I find the all 9 central AF points to be equally good at acquiring focus lock without the AF assist.
I would suggest a good flash light to help focus lock. There was someone on the forum who had suggested it earlier and it works well.

 

[small pig]

Anyone had updated the new software for the camera ?

 

[116520]

New updated software available today???

Anyone had updated the new software for the camera ?

 

[kansatish]

The 18-55mm + 55-200mm is a lot cheaper than the 18-200mm while giving better IQ at lower build quality.
The 18-200mm is very convenient as a single lens, but if you have the money and time to switch lenses, the 17-55mm f2.8 + 70-200mm/80-200mm f2.8 is an amazing combination. If you don't want to spend so much, I would suggest the 18-55mm + 55-200mm/70-300mm.

Or just the 18-105mm and the 70-300mm VRII - I can only recommend these as these are the ones I have )

 

[NigelSeah77]

Finally i got my hands on a D7000. Awesome man. Upgraded from the D3000. = )

 

[maxdevil]

Or just the 18-105mm and the 70-300mm VRII - I can only recommend these as these are the ones I have )

how much u bought and where u bought?

 

[fmeeran]

Anyone had updated the new software for the camera ?

I did. Not much difference.

 

[Nubzz]

Finally i got my hands on a D7000. Awesome man. Upgraded from the D3000. = )

Welcome to the family