deathstar
New Member
Upload your link to any photo sharing site.
Then direct link to here.
U mean just post the link here?
In other forums, I use the
CS bicycles and cyclist thread
- Thread starter petetherock
- Start date
- Status
U mean just post the link here?
In other forums, I use the
Glad to know you have three bikes and also a fan of
Armstrong.
Can you share how you keep them in tip top condition?
Do you cycle regularly?
Thread starter has always wanted to get together cycling enthusiats
for leisure and pleasure riding. Hope you can join the new group
that will be coming soon.
Oh, here are the links regarding posting pictures in
this forum. Enjoy your stay....enjoy!
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94574
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4418699#post4418699
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Basically one of the most essential part of
creative cycling is not being afraid of
falling off your bike. :thumbsup:
deathstar
New Member
Hi, thanks for sharing with me the picture posting tips.
On my bikes, I usually clean them after my rides. But for servicing, I send them to my friend's shop for a full service which usually cost around $80 per bike.
I'm more of a roadie and I ride Woodlands and Mandai every Sunday, total distance clocked is around 40km. Sometimes I will do Kranji, Neo Tiew, Lim Chu Kang and CCK route, that will give me around 70km.
Currently, my MTB is set up on a trainer and my wife uses it as her indoor bicycle. She cycles and watches tv at the same time. The folding bike is hers, I got it for her birthday recently. I'm also planning to get one for myself, looking at a Bike Friday Tikit.
Please keep me posted on the CS rides, I'd love to join in!
Cheers!
.Hack
Senior Member
You are without a shadow of a doubt a cycling enthu. :thumbsup:
deathstar
New Member
Haha, you flatter me ;p
How to equip for a smooth comfortable ride in case of tire puncture and other mishaps
even for leisure riding of less than 30km?
1. Get a good fitting helmet. If you are on a budget the Prowell Helmets is good enough.
2. Make sure you have front and rear blinkers for evening and night riding.
The more powerful the blinkers the better.
3. Wear riding jersey and tight which are especially designed
for more comfortable riding. Simple round neck long or short sleeve pull over with
running tight is better than bagger shorts and a T shirt. You can get these items
at the Beach Rd market and across the road on the second floor Thai Super Store.
4. Get a small multi-function bike tool set where you can keep it in a small bag
on your bike underneath your saddle. Make sure you have a tire lever as well as
part of the tool set or you can get a separate one.
5. A mini pump that can be attach to your bike is essential when you need to
replace the inner tube during a puncture. The Beto Mini Pump series is good enough.
(CMP-002 and CMP-003) These pumps equipped with swivel head fit both Presta
and Schreder valve.
6. Liquid is important, so get at least one water bottle for your bike and bring
it along for every ride.
7. A mini first-aid kit (tiger balm, plaster, medicated oil for emergency use.
8. Check tire pressure before each ride and if you have a floor
pump, you can inflate the tires to its proper requirements before setting out.
------------------------------------------------------------
The cyclist is also an artist who communicates with
nature remaining it as the most essential condition.
The cyclist just like the artist is human, himself nature;
part of nature within natural space.
.Hack
Senior Member
After parking my bike for a break a lady cyclist in white breezfully
peddling towards my direction. For a couple of seconds, I just
can't describe how my eyes were glued to the fast moving bicycle
and especially her beautiful flying attire.
Now, back to the point, can anyone guess which MTB I'm riding
on that day. From the picture there is plenty of clues. The first
person to get it right will have coffee on me when we meet in
future ride.
Your answer must include the brand and model.
peddling towards my direction. For a couple of seconds, I just
can't describe how my eyes were glued to the fast moving bicycle
and especially her beautiful flying attire.
Now, back to the point, can anyone guess which MTB I'm riding
on that day. From the picture there is plenty of clues. The first
person to get it right will have coffee on me when we meet in
future ride.
Your answer must include the brand and model.
Hehe I might get me a scott sportster P5 next week once gst mooney comes in along with some of my pay~
I test rid it the other time and it was pretty nice to ride.
Hope you can stay with your new bike longer as you learn the right
discipline for road riding or go off track once in a while.
Be warn of aching backside, back pain, palm pain and so on especially
for the first couple of months. Get a pair of cycling gloves and a good
fitting helmet for a start.
The Sportster P5 bike is lightweight. With its upright position, will
help make you more visible in traffic, good for a beginner as well as
experienced rider who want comfort while commuting.
Get more tips on the required discipline from more experienced riders
so that you can maintain your enthusiam longer.
For those who are comtemplating as to which bike to get, here is the
link to the Scott Sporster P5. The P5 has a model designed for woman.
http://www.ems.com/1/2/5657-reviews-scott-sportster-p5-bike-08.html
Hope you can join in for future ride.
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tainted
Member
haha thanks... actually I've started riding since early last year... I bought a bike in nov... A hasa comp and it got stolen 4 days later lawl. Since then I've been riding on my cousins bike for a few months while I checked the B&S in togoparts for second hand bikes..that was how I came across the Scott Sportster.
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sammy888
Senior Member
sammy888
Senior Member
Hehe I might get me a scott sportster P5 next week once gst mooney comes in along with some of my pay~
I test rid it the other time and it was pretty nice to ride.
It's a good bike to upgrade from at a later time when you want to tweak it to improve on it. Keep this bike INDOOR THIS TIME when you go home! heh.
tainted
Member
yessir! got you this time haha.
I've learnt my lesson
But hor P5 & 6 not much diff right?
I can get the P6 and also upgrade next time too hor?
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sammy888
Senior Member
I have a difference opinion on that.
Baggy short and T-short are my main attire on my ride for the past 15 yrs. I use to use full-on racing jersey and shorts. They are good but it is a personal choice and depend on where you ride and how you ride.
Not everyone feels good being in body hugging and not forgetting body revealing tights. Just wearing tights....and worst...use normal aerobic or running tights will not be a comfortable ride especially for new riders as unlike REAL cycling tight, they do not have a crotch padding to help provide padding and help with chaffing due to your leg movement as you cycling and rubbing on the saddle.
My baggy bermuda shorts are with a built in mesh tights/sew on padding. It's a cycling shorts specially made for cycling. For those using normal shorts, which I also tend to do at times(Nike shorts) the material is thicker then aerobic tights so it acts to provide some padding. But you have the option of buying a inner bike support short. It is a light fibre very small short (almost like a underwear) with padding at the butt to crotch region like a real cycling short. You wear that and you can wear any shorts over it. The brand I always buy is PACE you can find them in a number of bike shops. It goes for about $20 or less. Depend on how you ride they can last you a year or more.
Baggy shorts and tee shirt for MTB is not new or unnatural infact it is a traditional. It is part of that biking lifestyle that was create in the early days of MTB development in the US in the 70s.
Just make to wear something that does not get too overly baggy with funny loop fibre sew to the exterior of the shorts and too long that is gets hook to parts of your bike as you ride...and cause you to fall off or have problem getting off once you stop heheh. You might laugh but I have seem that happen. The same goes for having too tight a short too like those denim type. Normal short short just above the knee line will be fine, I have a few pair of nike sport shorts which works fine. Make sure they have good stiching on them as you would not want to suffer a big tear out on the under portion of your shorts.
No need to wear tight racing jersey as I say, a good teeshirt or a material like those marathon runner which are like Nike's "quik dry" fabric which helps get rid of sweat faster by drawing it to the surface to help evaporation. In any case how many here want to pay anything from $79 to 150 or more for a cycling jersey or tights? (Yes, we talking EACH cost that much) Cost as much as the bike you pay for at Carrefeur.
Plus those pricey racing jersey and tights. I assured you, when you fall off your bike..bad? It will tear off just as easy if not more due to it's thinner elastic material and your skin will still be scrapped on the tarmac of the road or offroad. I ever cycle home bruised and bleeding from a stupid cornering I took. From my entire right butt cheek to my knee a number of tear off portion of my tights just barely holding together my tights on the right side. Good thing it was a past midnight ride if not I wonder how many would have saw me in that state. heheh.. Racing jersey and tights are good don't get me wrong but apart from looking cool (to some people) it does help wind resistance and as they cling to your body, it will not get caught on your bike parts. It is ultimately a personal choice. Just keep in mind the pro and cons.
sammy888
Senior Member
yessir! got you this time haha.
I've learnt my lesson
But hor P5 & 6 not much diff right?
I can get the P6 and also upgrade next time too hor?
Both this bike are hybrid so are more pro Road then Off road. Alot of sellers are alway claiming they can do both ..blah blah blah. But given that I heard you are doing alot more road then off in the trail somewhere, this is a practical buy for you.
The good news is this are road hybrid so it has a lighter frame and using Aluminum is always better then steel for sure. I am not sure if you have seen the P6 over the P5 and you were in the shop to view them.....while I only saw what was on the Scott website. Sometime there are slight variations when they bring any of them over from Taiwan and also how much the local distributor or buyer got and did they make any change in specs to cut corners or sweeten the deal to market them here.
From what I saw the big difference is in the fork. The P6 has no full suspension fork. Which is a good thing as you save more weight. A rigid fork is always lighter. The wheelset are not mountain bike spec. Not just the rim but also the tires. (for both bikes) There are more like 29er ( normal MTB are 26s)which are almost or are the same as road wheels which in a way is good for a rigid fork. The theory is a big wheel goes over humps and bumps alot smoother so there is no need for a suspension fork unless you start to ride alot off road, and ride a LOT.
Really to be honest in Singapore...99.9% of people ride in places that don't even need any suspension. It is not like your body and arm can't take the jolting if you can some minor bumping really jolting!!! heheh... okay I am bitching. Really it is up to you if you feel a suspension fork is better for you.
Just take note that upgrading to a suspension front fork will cost you a few hundred for a no brand low quality one.(translation: yippee you have something that looks like a fork to show people but not really performing like one
) to a branded one costing you more then $1,500 or more!.. Some even might require you change the headset too if the fork you upgrade does not fit well with existing headset. A good headset like from Chris King... you can paid $300 to 500 for it. ( not that I am tempting you lah hehe.. but to give you some hint as to how crazy bike parts can cost)Alot of the parts on the bikes are fine...for now. As to how well they will hold up to use, abuse and the weather that is still the question that only time will tell. Your wheels using steel spoke from what I read, that mean rust for sure in those parts will be your good friend if you don't keep them clean and dry. Remember you riding near the sea. And we have not gone into what other parts are made of iron or steel. Should that be a major worry....not totally. You are not alone, I think 80% of bikes sold are like that...just means more cleaning or be ready to see your bike in wonderful rust orange colour as your paintwork like the rest of those parked at MRT stations heheheh...
The geometry of the bike is meant for road riding if anything. Gives you good feeling that you are riding quite upright so your view is good and balance. Meaning you are not hump over like a typical racer or mountain biker that you need to bend your neck back over your shoulder to see behind you or side so much. In that up right though, I foresee more painful butt for long rides as the weight is not not spread out to your should to your arm and onto your handle bar. (center of gravity) All the top weight is now on your butt and onto your saddle. Again, this depend on how far forward is your handlebar and stem. A pair of handlebar horns might do the trick so that if you see the ache in the butt or your back you can stretch out your body forward by holding on to the horns so some weight is not supoorted by your arm to the handle bar.
If you are confuse over this, well it is all about the center of gravity. Try to figure that out and you will see why sometime an upright position has it's pro and con. Again, it depend on how you ride and how long. The longer and harder you ride, the upright might not be a good idea. Another way to help with the saddle butt pain although most seasoned riders will do is, our saddle height is adjusted to a specific length that allows for the leg that is position on the down stroke of the pedal(6 o'clock position) to be almost STRAIGHT.
Most people ride their bike like a BMX, the seat so darn low they think they riding a chopper. That is not a very good position to ride. As you get older you are really pressuring your knees alot due to the way you cycle. It's also not efficient in terms of transferring power from your leg to the pedal that power your wheels forward. That is why when BMXer want to get up to speed they are always standing up on their bike and hammering the pedal to get up to speed. The tricky part with the way seasoned riders ride in that straight leg position, when you stop, you are almost tip toeing as you slant the bike to the side, have a leg ontop of a kerb or you get off your bike and stand and only get back on when you start again.
You will notice that when you see good riders stopping at traffic light. The reason a straight leg position is good as it also means you optimize your use of the pedal stroke to it's fullest energy transfer to push your bike forward and also, when you reach the bottom of the stroke, your leg is partial taking some of the load off your butt from the saddle. So in fact you are alternating the stress of your butt with the saddle thus you can have a better and longer ride. of course it goes without say that choice of a good saddle to fit your bone structure is also crucial. But that's a another thing.
Ultimately, I think the frame is good for upgrading. The wheels could be better. And if you want to change to mountain bike wheels, you better ask the shop first if this bike can. I suspect since they are hybrid and specifically built for road riding, free riding and cyclocross riding, the wheel frame width might not allow the fitting for fatter thicken mountain bike hub, tires and wheel set. I have a funny feeling they are not. Something to think about. If yours are really the 29" wheel, it will not take the 26" mountain bike for sure.
Well..that is what I see about that bike. Good bike overall for it's price (what I see in the US pricing) It is definitely a good entry level bike for a more serious rider that you have decided to become. But just know, this is really more for road type use then really a hard core off road....typical of a true mountain bike.
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Almost every cyclists would have the experience of having their bikes stolen.
My locked market bike was stolen when parked outside my home during broad daylight
early one morning at about 9.00am to 10.00am.
The thief left the cut lock on the floor. The cut was smooth and clean, so he must have
used a professional bolt cutter or something similiar.
Locking your bicycle securely needs knowledge of how the bike thieves go about doing
their job.
1. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
2. http://www.nationalbikeregistry.com/proplock.html
3. http://www.missinglink.org/Pages/bike_locking.html :thumbsup:
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Which ever way you choose to lock your bike will never be as
secure as when it is insight. Never unestimate that your cheap
$70 market bike will never be stolen. There are greedy bike
thieves who will steal anykind of bikes.
deathstar
New Member
I don't lock my bikes. They're kept inside my home. In fact, I don't even let them be out of sight when I'm outside. So therefore, I never ride my bike to buy things, I walk. I cannot even imagine ever losing my bike. :cry:
But if you really have to ride to buy stuff, make sure you have a really GOOD lock. Do also ensure that you lock a few parts of your bike together, making it harder for the thief to steal.
Just my 2 cents ;p
But if you really have to ride to buy stuff, make sure you have a really GOOD lock. Do also ensure that you lock a few parts of your bike together, making it harder for the thief to steal.
Just my 2 cents ;p
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