Burning in highlights in grade 0 ?


Status
Not open for further replies.

kex

Senior Member
i heard and been trying a technique to burn in the highlights without dodging the shadows and midtones using grade 0 then expose the midtones and shadows accordingly..(basically split printing)

have anyone of u tried/mastered the technique?

i get murky results when i use the technique above,but if i were to burn in the highlight at the same grade i'm printing while dodging the shadows i get nicer results..

what did i miss out ??

i heard that grade 0 does not affect shadows,only highlights..issit true?
 

A lot depends on where and what you are trying to burn.

Increasing the contrast affects the shadows a lot more than the high values, and with added grain. This is OK if there is a clear area to burn in.

But if there is an area such as a tall church steeple and you want to burn in the sky, using a higher contrast to burn in the sky can lead to a very dark steeple, or if you avoid the steeple, then an ugly "halo" around the steeple.

Under such circumstances, using a lower grade such as grade 00 or even -00 may be able to save the day.
 

student said:
A lot depends on where and what you are trying to burn.

Increasing the contrast affects the shadows a lot more than the high values, and with added grain. This is OK if there is a clear area to burn in.

But if there is an area such as a tall church steeple and you want to burn in the sky, using a higher contrast to burn in the sky can lead to a very dark steeple, or if you avoid the steeple, then an ugly "halo" around the steeple.

Under such circumstances, using a lower grade such as grade 00 or even -00 may be able to save the day.

hmm...

so if i burn in the church steeple sky using a low grade like 0,i still have to dodge the shadow area right ??

just that burning in low grade can minimize/eliminate the ugly halo,correct ??
 

Hi Kex,

If U want to burn the highlights using a grade 0, U have to dodge the other areas that of midtones and shadows, so only the highlights will get more exposure it needed.

Split grade printing is mainly used for contrasty negs so U can have better control of the overall image. U can split the exposure 50-50 btw low grade and high grade. U can also split 40-70 btw thw grades. it all depends on the image and what U want to get.

U get murky results because the entire image exposure is increased, although the extra exposure in in grade 0. What the paper got was extra fogging. Its ok for the highlights U want to burn but the whole image is affected and fogging will reduce the overall contrast so U get murky result. Looks like when u print on an expired paper.

Try printing the image again and burn the highlights as U did while dodging the shadows and midtones. But Burn it with grade 0. This helps in the area where its wahsed out highlights that U want to "darken".

Burning sky with clowds will benefit better with grade 2.5 upwards. (depending whether U use condenser or diffuser enlarger). In this case the darker sky will get darker and the clowds will not darken so much thus contrast in teh sky is enhanced and looks more dramatic.

Hope this helps.
 

Kex, now that Oszzy had written, I realised that I actually do not quite understand your question.

Can you describe ehat you were trying to do?

Example:

The nature of the image, and the problems

Your base exposure with what grade. Why are you dodging the shadows and midtones?

Where were you trying to burn?
 

wow !!

appreciate ur detailed explanation on the burning issue,ozzy..

will try out again,this time diff ratio for diff grade..

with regards to student(call u student abit odd leh) hahaha..

i'm printing a tribal village scene with kids playing in the field..
the light is quite harsh at the point of exposure,so the field and sky is at least 4 zone away from the kids face..
my base exposure is at f16 18sec grade 2.5..
Areas i'm trying to dodge is mainly the kids tribal clothings in black!!(Arrgh..)
i'm trying to burn in the blown out sky and paddy fields..

i tried burning at grade 0 with dodging for 45sec+ and then expose the midtones and shadows normally..

results is wad Ozzy says..like expired paper

i tried doing the base exposure and burn in the highlights with the same grade with dodging,results are alot better but still not satisfied..

tauphin.jpg


the image is something like this ps'ed image
 

Kex, my opinion is that U should try split grade with this image. I believe the neg is a contrasty one. try splitting 0 and 3.5 (if condenser enlarger, diffurer try 4 or 5) for 50-50 exposure. Then try vary the ratio of exposure with bias towards grade 0 more IF the highlights are still high. ie 60-40.

If you want to burn in, its adviseable to do after the main exposure.

During split grade printing always work with lower grade first then the higher one. It works better that way. essentially, using grade 0 or 00 is like "pre-flashing". U increase the base fog level of the paper first to control the highlights. then the remaining print on the higher grade at a "shorter time" takes care of the remaining values on the "fogged" base.

I hope I make sense.
 

i get your point..thanks..

are there any recommended exposure time limit for burning?

ie: burn at 45sec F16 or maybe 20sec F11?
Or are they the same since the amount of light hitting the paper is agar agar the same ?
 

What I normally do when burning is open up the aperture wider if the burning at the current aperture takes a long time. eg: If at f16 it takes 40 sec, then I open up to f11 at 20 sec. Faster that way.
 

kex said:
wow !!


my base exposure is at f16 18sec grade 2.5..
Areas i'm trying to dodge is mainly the kids tribal clothings in black!!(Arrgh..)
i'm trying to burn in the blown out sky and paddy fields..

i tried burning at grade 0 with dodging for 45sec+ and then expose the midtones and shadows normally..

i tried doing the base exposure and burn in the highlights with the same grade with dodging,results are alot better but still not satisfied..

tauphin.jpg


the image is something like this ps'ed image

Actually I still don't understand! My brain cells are getting koyak!

Let me analyse the problem. You have an image that is very contrasty, with the girls' clothes black and the sky blown out. Unfortunately you have things sticking out from the "foreground" into the sky, making burning in the sky without creating a halo around the poles/ropes or making the top portion of the same poles/ropes black.

OK, now look at the negative.

Are there details in the girls' clothes? If it is all blank (white out) then all dodging will do is to make the clothes a dull grey. If details are there, then perhaps something can be done. Now let us look at the sky. Are there details - clouds? If empty, all that you will achieve by burning is an uninteresting textureless grey sky.

Let me assume that you have interesting details in the clothes and sky. It is extremely difficult to burn the sky without blackening the poles/ropes or creating a halo around them. There are contrast masking methods, but I think this is beyond me for the time being.

Solutions:

1 You must try to bring out the sky by lowering the "threshold" of the high values (sky) to allow details to come through in the base exposure. In a simple image, all that is required is to allow more exposure, something not possible here. I would suggest flashing. There are two ways to do this. A localised pre-flashing to the sky, or the whole paper. I think for simplicity sake, try the whole paper first. Use a paper, set aperture to eg f16, expose for 1 second, two seconds, three seconds etc in strips like making an initial exposure strips. Try up to 10 seconds. Then develop this paper normally. Look at the developed paper, and look for the strip that first show some "grey". When looking at this "flash strip" do not look at it under too bright light. Assuming the first strip to show some grey is at 4 seconds. The duration of flashing you will want is 3 seconds. Remember you will only want to reduce the threshold to allow the high values to come out. You do not want to make the high values grey. Now take a new paper, and flash it at f16 at 3 seconds. Then use this paper for the base exposure.

2 How to decide on the base exposure? Generally speaking, the duration of exposure is to to chose a duration for the hgh values of interest. I would think that the important high value here is the blouse of the girl at the centre. The sky can be a little white, and should be! Which contrast to chose? Remember increasing contrast makes shadows darker. So chose a lower contrast. What grade? I would suggest trying grade 1 or even grade 0. A major problem with seeing is that it is usually harder to reduce a grade than to increase a grade.

Let us say you chose grade 1, and if this does not bring out the details in the girls' clothes, then dodge them during the base exposue.

Try and see if this method might work.
 

Clarify, When testing for flashing, there must be no negative in the negative carrier.
 

hi student,
the image i having problem is not the one i posted above but something similar,the sky and the kids clothing do have some details in it..

about the preflash method,do i still do the split printing after pre flashing or try to print it at a lower grade ?
 

kex said:
hi student,
the image i having problem is not the one i posted above but something similar,the sky and the kids clothing do have some details in it..

about the preflash method,do i still do the split printing after pre flashing or try to print it at a lower grade ?

just print at a lower grade and see how it works out. One "advantage" in printing at a lower grade is less grain. But you may like grain!
 

okok..

thank you all for taking the time to advise !

learn new things everyday,hahaha..
 

Yes... It is way too contrasty. The blacks have very little details in them. Almost everything in the background falls at the wrong zones. Split printing may help, but only to a certain extend.
 

time to try a contrast reduction mask
 

Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top