Blur image at the corners


So if i bring the Tokina 11-16 down to NSC, will they adjust the tokina as well? or do i have to go to tokina's service ?

There is nothing that needs to be adjusted. Back/front focus is a tiny margin of error, not a 10 meter difference.

This is clearly a case of where you were not in control of where the camera was focusing.
 

btw, TS. you replied the question with "Focus Mode" not "Focus Area"

are you on multi or spot focusing areas?
 

From my friend's experience, NSC will adjust the camera but they need the lens to try out their adjustment. Before going, try on the focus test chart first and see if it's really back focusing issue. Shoot at 45-degree angle wide open.

if NSC adjust the camera to suit the body, will other lens that already suit to the body run off?

thanks
 

if NSC adjust the camera to suit the body, will other lens that already suit to the body run off?

thanks

its always better to bring all your lens along. if its just body problem, they will adjust only the body. same goes to that 1 or 2 lens.

bottomline is, just bring everything and they know what to do. in fact the newer lines of dslr has the af micro-adjustment built in where you can diy. you just need a focusing chart, tripod and good light.
 

if NSC adjust the camera to suit the body, will other lens that already suit to the body run off?

thanks

Its quite ecident that you have mis-focussed. An error on your part. Like Benjamin said, these "discrepancies" are way beyond what re-calibration can do. Don't be misguided.
 

The exif info shows the metering mode is pattern. what does it mean ?
Read your manual, it's explained there. But then: we see a focus issue here, not an exposure issue. Please read up about 'focus point' in your manual. Understand what all these red dots in your viewfinder mean and how to control them.
 

Read your manual, it's explained there. But then: we see a focus issue here, not an exposure issue. Please read up about 'focus point' in your manual. Understand what all these red dots in your viewfinder mean and how to control them.

I was shooting at single point
 

I was shooting at single point

Yessss, now which single point? It looks like the camera was focusing on the signboard at the back (quite well).
 

The exif info shows the metering mode is pattern. what does it mean ?

Metering is not focusing. Please read your manual and the basic photography stickies in the newbies corner.
 

Yessss, now which single point? It looks like the camera was focusing on the signboard at the back (quite well).


On the face of the person playing the instrument.
 

On the face of the person playing the instrument.

Then you missed by a bit, or your focus spot is so large it actually covered the face and also encroached on the sign - thus the autofocus system selected the high contrast target, namely the signboard. You can see the performer's head is small relative to the size of the pic, so your spot AF area easily covered parts of the background too.

Since you are shooting with an UWA lens and not worried about critical DOF for a portrait for example, focus on his torso as a bigger target.
 

Then you missed by a bit, or your focus spot is so large it actually covered the face and also encroached on the sign - thus the autofocus system selected the high contrast target, namely the signboard. You can see the performer's head is small relative to the size of the pic, so your spot AF area easily covered parts of the background too.

Since you are shooting with an UWA lens and not worried about critical DOF for a portrait for example, focus on his torso as a bigger target.

Is there anyway to adjust the focus spot size ? So it doesnt have to do anything with back focusing right ?
 

bbbddd said:
Is there anyway to adjust the focus spot size ? So it doesnt have to do anything with back focusing right ?

No there is not. This is where you, as the photographer, need to develop skills. Know your equipment and how to maximize it.
 

No there is not. This is where you, as the photographer, need to develop skills. Know your equipment and how to maximize it.

OK thanks alot. At least i know the problem doesnt lies with my equipment.
 

OK thanks alot. At least i know the problem doesnt lies with my equipment.
Gone are the days when you only have max 36 shots in your SLR film camera. Every shot counts. Nowadays, an SDHC/CF card (32 GB) allows you to shot literally thousands. Don't skimp on taking extra shots. Experiment with different settings and take as many shots as possible. End of the day, you not only are able to select the best of the bunch, you will also be able to pinpoint the problematic areas like those that you have encountered. This is one method whereby novice shooters like me learn and pick up the skills along the way. Memory cards are cheap in comparison to precious moments that you may miss if you don't capitalise on shooting as many as you can.
 

Hi TS.... dont worry too much lar.... nothing wrong with your Cam or lens..... its just the setting.... play around with it more..... I had the same problem... worst was shooting an event.... human all off.... the stuff in front/behind all turn out sharper..... lucky not paid job... just shoot for company record purpose... guess D7000 less forgiving in this aspect....:dunno::rolleyes:
 

Hi CSer

I realize that the corner of my pictures are blur whenever I use a Tokina 11-16. My subject is also out of focus after the auto focus lock on it. I am currently using a D7000. I tried shooting using nikon 18-105 kit lens and there no problem with the pictures. So im wondering if there is a problem with my Tokina 11-16. May I know whats the main cause of the problem ?

Mount the body with the lens firmly on tripod. Use centre spot to focus on a well defined object with a lot of "distracting" elements close by before/behind them. Open the aperture wide, focus and shoot. Change aperture to smaller size and shoot etc...

Look at the pics taken on computer scren zoom 50-100% and check th sharpness of the pics. That will help you to trouble-shoot.
 

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