Black n white kit

[JayTee705]

I would be interested in a print session, although immediate timing may be difficult for me as I have relatives visiting from next week.

On a related note, might we start a discussion here or perhaps a seperate thread about what to look for when buying an analog darkroom setup?

I can't buy one in the near term, because of a likely move, but I will want one in the future. But I'm finding all the options confusing. Plus, since all the gear will likely be used and unwarrantied, knowing what to look for seems even more important.

If anyone wants to learn how to print I can do a simple session to get your hands wet (erm, quite literally)... so those who are thinking about investing in some darkroom equipment can do some hands on before buying stuff they will later regret.. haha

I have a simple darkroom with a large format enlarger (I think I got from ratboy) but only problem is it's not air-conditioned, so we can only work at night.

Cost wise, maybe some kopi money from the participants for the chemicals and paper will do. But I think I can only accomodate maybe 3-4 people at one go, any more and it'll get too squeezy.

Anyone interested?

Erv.

 

[enivre]

darkroom thing won't be so soon, this week rather packed for me.. I'll open up a thread when the timing is right.

 

[chia_sl]

Hello guys every things brought already ? seem like quiet liao ....

me also in for B/W film developing .... some opinion from me.... the SLCC course $250 is included film developing kit ... seem a reasonable price.... if you guys had pruchase the kit try to total up...seem a price that is about around $60-80...deduct the total of $250--> $190/4 lesson ....about $47.5 person lesson ...about 3 hour per lesson $47.5/3 = $15.8 per hour..... then with a dedicated person to teach you how to develop.... to get the foundation knowledge about film developing ... i think should be pretty worth it....now everything about photography is about digital ... and photoshop... developing film is just may be 1/1000 of people out there that knowing it...

I also go to PSS to develop my printing... quite fun using all the equipment...no money to buy enlarger so source out for alternative...if any one have good lobang let me know...

""The cost of the course will be $250 We will be giving each participant 1 set of processing kit consisting of :

1 Processing Tank with 2 plastic reels
1 Measuring Cylinder 250ml size
1 Graduated Beaker
1 Film wiper
1 set Film Cliper (Top & Bottom)
1 Stirring Rod
1 Dark bag
1 Film Picker
1 scissors""


this is my little opinion only.....:embrass:

 

[SLCC]

i tried emailing to Stanley from SLCC but the mail keep bouncing back :dunno:

Hello iboey, I do not know this thread until one of my student PM me about this thread. I am so sorry that there are problems with the www.slcc.sg email acc. We had stop that email add long time ago. If you need to understand any course or anything you can email to stanlim7831@yahoo.com.sg or joanneleeweimin@gmail.com. You can also PM to SLCC or reach joanne at 98583502 anyday but after 12pm.

 

[Andy Tay]

Or you can give safra a go. students of the course will become members and get to use the darkroom for free, chemicals, equipment provided. you basically just have to bring ya own paper.

 

[greg]

I wish to setup a darkroom to develop my BnW pics. May I know where is the best place to hunt for such stuffs in Singapore? Im new to this DIY developing so would greatly appreciate any help or advises.

DIY from step 1 to step z. It's simple, fun, fulfilling and cheap. There's a nice video I just watched here on how you can develop your own negs. Tag along with those who so kindly organise newbie course, I always endorse and encourage these kind folks for dishing out such a service, especially out of passion. treat them well and have fun.

 

[tirza]

Hi all

I just started doing bw film, I bought Ilford Pan 400.. Got some newbie questions here, need helpp

first what does it mean by pushing or pulling? and how do i do that?
second the auntie from ruby tell me I gotta develop in 20deg but streetshoter in his thread didnt mention anything about temp.. so can i actually develop them in aircon room?
and third is there anyway to make my photos more grainy coz i like the grain from most bw photos ive ever seen..

sorry for the noob questions, thank in advance for answering..

 

[centurion_sg]

Simple questions with long answers.

1) Read concepts of push/pull here: http://www3.telus.net/drkrm/push-pull.htm

2) I believe she's trying to simplify things for you be telling you only one temperature, 20 C. Actually the range of temperature for processing is wider and differs for each brand of film. When you open the cardboard box of the film, tear it open and see the development tables printed on its insides for an idea.

Also, the temperature refers to the temperature of the processing chemicals, and not the room.

3) Grain mainly depends on brand of film, ISO, and processing. Do a Google search or experiment with different films to find your personal favourite. There are past discussions in CS on grain too.

Actually you can still take B&W photos without worrying about the above. Try using monochromatic films processed the usual way (C41 process) at photo labs, e.g. Ilford XP2.

Hi all

I just started doing bw film, I bought Ilford Pan 400.. Got some newbie questions here, need helpp

first what does it mean by pushing or pulling? and how do i do that?
second the auntie from ruby tell me I gotta develop in 20deg but streetshoter in his thread didnt mention anything about temp.. so can i actually develop them in aircon room?
and third is there anyway to make my photos more grainy coz i like the grain from most bw photos ive ever seen..

sorry for the noob questions, thank in advance for answering..

 

[tirza]

Simple questions with long answers.

1) Read concepts of push/pull here: http://www3.telus.net/drkrm/push-pull.htm

2) I believe she's trying to simplify things for you be telling you only one temperature, 20 C. Actually the range of temperature for processing is wider and differs for each brand of film. When you open the cardboard box of the film, tear it open and see the development tables printed on its insides for an idea.

Also, the temperature refers to the temperature of the processing chemicals, and not the room.

3) Grain mainly depends on brand of film, ISO, and processing. Do a Google search or experiment with different films to find your personal favourite. There are past discussions in CS on grain too.

Actually you can still take B&W photos without worrying about the above. Try using monochromatic films processed the usual way (C41 process) at photo labs, e.g. Ilford XP2.

thanks centurion..

i read the pan 400 development tables, dont quite understand it though :sweat:
lets say ill use ddx for my development chem then next to it there is written 1+4, does this mean 1 volume of ddx should be mixed with 4 volume of water?

and next to it, there numbers which i believe are the minutes of developing.. but the column header are like 200/24 , 400/27 , 800/30 , 1600/33.. i guess the 200 400 800 1600 are the iso settings in the cam.. and so what are those 24 , 27 , 30 and 33 next to them?

and can you suggest a decent dvlpment chem for newbie like me?
ow about number 3, so the processing also affect the grain? izit by pushing up?

sorry i come with very basic questions here :bsmilie: hope you dont mind helping.. im keen to learn bw processing so prefer doing it on my own rather than going to lab..

thanks

 

[centurion_sg]

Unfortunately I don't have the Pan400 tables but the terms used are quite universal.

1) Your understanding of 1+4 is correct.

2) The numbers "200/24" means the film(not the camera setting) is rated for ISO200 or DIN24. I'm not familiar with DIN rating but you can Google to read about it.

3) I'm just a beginner in developing film. I was introduced to Kodak TMax Dev as a basic developer. It's convenient because its quite general purpose and easy to mix (liquid form). Once I get my development process stable I may consider experimenting others.

About the grain, you really should read more first and try a couple of rolls. I would say avoid pushing the film until you're more sure about normal processing.

thanks centurion..

i read the pan 400 development tables, dont quite understand it though :sweat:
lets say ill use ddx for my development chem then next to it there is written 1+4, does this mean 1 volume of ddx should be mixed with 4 volume of water?

and next to it, there numbers which i believe are the minutes of developing.. but the column header are like 200/24 , 400/27 , 800/30 , 1600/33.. i guess the 200 400 800 1600 are the iso settings in the cam.. and so what are those 24 , 27 , 30 and 33 next to them?

and can you suggest a decent dvlpment chem for newbie like me?
ow about number 3, so the processing also affect the grain? izit by pushing up?

sorry i come with very basic questions here :bsmilie: hope you dont mind helping.. im keen to learn bw processing so prefer doing it on my own rather than going to lab..

thanks

 

[enivre]

I'm just a beginner in developing film. I was introduced to Kodak TMax Dev as a basic developer. It's convenient because its quite general purpose and easy to mix (liquid form). Once I get my development process stable I may consider experimenting others.

I'm also using t-max, esp when I only have a few rolls of film to develop. No point mixing up a whole batch of developer from stock only to waste it by not using it.

 

[Celebring]

Hope this is not too OT, but does anyone have experience with the Film Development Time/Temperature Compensation Chart on Ilford's website? How accurate are the compensation times?

 

[maxonline]

I have some chemicles and developing tools left over....i need to chk my stocks.....pm me...i am gona let go at clearance price....PM me what you need...i go search my store

 

[tirza]

Unfortunately I don't have the Pan400 tables but the terms used are quite universal.

1) Your understanding of 1+4 is correct.

2) The numbers "200/24" means the film(not the camera setting) is rated for ISO200 or DIN24. I'm not familiar with DIN rating but you can Google to read about it.

3) I'm just a beginner in developing film. I was introduced to Kodak TMax Dev as a basic developer. It's convenient because its quite general purpose and easy to mix (liquid form). Once I get my development process stable I may consider experimenting others.

About the grain, you really should read more first and try a couple of rolls. I would say avoid pushing the film until you're more sure about normal processing.

heii thanks for replying

but i dun get it for number 2, coz im using pan 400 it means iso400 but in the table there are those numbers 200 400 800 1600 3200.. so actually what are those iso number for? at first i tot it was for pushing..

and for pushing, its a lil bit too late, i ve taken few frames using setting as 1600 in pan 400 :sweat: so bassically i just need to reduce 1minute from normal developing right?

 

[centurion_sg]

The printed tables usually list more than one type of ISO film that the company makes. So just use the 400 film information, exposed at 1600 (sometimes referred to as EI, exposure index).

For the few frames exposed at 1600 you'll have to process the whole roll at 1600. In your case, it is pushing the film, so extend the time of development, not shorten it. Basically you deliberately underexposed the film, so you'll need to develop it longer to "recover" the image.

I don't have your charts so you might want to refer to this for more info. Search on your film, Ilford Pan, and chemical, DDX to get the suggested chart:
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

If you still have queries, might be better to call Ruby for help as they're always ready to help newbies.

heii thanks for replying

but i dun get it for number 2, coz im using pan 400 it means iso400 but in the table there are those numbers 200 400 800 1600 3200.. so actually what are those iso number for? at first i tot it was for pushing..

and for pushing, its a lil bit too late, i ve taken few frames using setting as 1600 in pan 400 :sweat: so bassically i just need to reduce 1minute from normal developing right?

 

[maxonline]

hi all

i have some to let go pls refer to:

http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=321762

max

 

[tirza]

The printed tables usually list more than one type of ISO film that the company makes. So just use the 400 film information, exposed at 1600 (sometimes referred to as EI, exposure index).

For the few frames exposed at 1600 you'll have to process the whole roll at 1600. In your case, it is pushing the film, so extend the time of development, not shorten it. Basically you deliberately underexposed the film, so you'll need to develop it longer to "recover" the image.

I don't have your charts so you might want to refer to this for more info. Search on your film, Ilford Pan, and chemical, DDX to get the suggested chart:
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

If you still have queries, might be better to call Ruby for help as they're always ready to help newbies.

aahh i get it now.. i gonna try to develop my first pushed film, actually my first film too tomorrow..

Thanks for the help, centurion..:thumbsup:

 

[tirza]

aahh i get it now.. i gonna try to develop my first pushed film, actually my first film too tomorrow..

Thanks for the help, centurion..

done it!! my first own developed film :bsmilie:

i success to make the pictures appear :lovegrin:

developing its not that hard lol :sweat:

but but there are dots in the film, looks like the film got chicken pox or smth.. what part did i did wrongly?