Oh...I don't mean the reels are wet. I meant even if I dab the reels dry and immediately re-use, they don't seem as smooth. They need to be air dried for some time before re-use.
B&W film developing - Which shop?
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Oh...I don't mean the reels are wet. I meant even if I dab the reels dry and immediately re-use, they don't seem as smooth. They need to be air dried for some time before re-use.
If I had to re-use my reels immediately, (which I do not try to do), the least I will have to do is to use a hair dryer. Dabbing the reels "dry" is certainly insufficient.
clubgrit
Senior Member
First of all, sorry to OT a bit on this thread ...
Ok, I've tried 15 degrees using 1600 film, metered for ISO 1600. Well, IMHO, I found no significant difference regarding grain reduction ... Did a search around forums, and general sentiment is that very low temperature can only give an insignificant improvement in lessening grain, as development has to be compensated by longer developing time anyway. The choice of film, developer for example will give more significant results. I think I'll stick with the usual 20 degrees and save time ... I didn't try less developer though, for another day ...
Anyway, here's sample test shots which I just took sporadically, developed in 15 degrees. I was more on testing the hyperfocal distance for your Voigtlander 28mm/f1.9 Ultron. Really liking this lens, I can shoot people right in front of them, and they won't know I'm taking their photos since the camera is pointed somewhere else
The woman in the photo was only about 2.5m away (I couldn't see her on the viewfinder, though, so now awaiting the 0.85x viewfinder reducer).
1. Neopan Super Presto 1600, f5.6, 1/30, pointed anywhere past hyperfocal distance of about 4.75m. 15 degrees developing, Tmax, 8 minutes (4.5 mins if 20 degrees). Not sure about this timing, was just an experiment. Still a bit of grain in the shadows, I scanned negative in low resolution, no grain control in my scanning software.
2. Same as above, but negative scanned at higher resolution, can hardly notice grain in dark areas.
Ok, I've tried 15 degrees using 1600 film, metered for ISO 1600. Well, IMHO, I found no significant difference regarding grain reduction ... Did a search around forums, and general sentiment is that very low temperature can only give an insignificant improvement in lessening grain, as development has to be compensated by longer developing time anyway. The choice of film, developer for example will give more significant results. I think I'll stick with the usual 20 degrees and save time ... I didn't try less developer though, for another day ...
Anyway, here's sample test shots which I just took sporadically, developed in 15 degrees. I was more on testing the hyperfocal distance for your Voigtlander 28mm/f1.9 Ultron. Really liking this lens, I can shoot people right in front of them, and they won't know I'm taking their photos since the camera is pointed somewhere else
The woman in the photo was only about 2.5m away (I couldn't see her on the viewfinder, though, so now awaiting the 0.85x viewfinder reducer).1. Neopan Super Presto 1600, f5.6, 1/30, pointed anywhere past hyperfocal distance of about 4.75m. 15 degrees developing, Tmax, 8 minutes (4.5 mins if 20 degrees). Not sure about this timing, was just an experiment. Still a bit of grain in the shadows, I scanned negative in low resolution, no grain control in my scanning software.
2. Same as above, but negative scanned at higher resolution, can hardly notice grain in dark areas.
clubgrit
Senior Member
I just tried this on 35mm film (now waiting for negatives to dry ;p) as today's roll was stubborn, and it's a great tip ! Thanks. But I have no idea why ... all I can think of is - more curved at the end of the roll ?:dunno:
Zero stuck problem with 120 film anytime, though, shorter and no holes ...
all this talk on b&w developing is gettin me excited. i m new to b&w and have always wanted to try. not too sure if i should take up a course on developing and printing or just go and experiment myself. not too sure if i should spend the money and time to go through a course. i m very keen on learning the fine art of b&w, not too sure how to start though. pls advise, would be very appreciative of anyone who can teach me, perhaps for a small fee. thanks in advance for any input.
Hey 17439624,
Welcome... welcome... You don't have to go for a course to pick up processing B&W film. All you need is a tank and 3 types of solution "Developer" & "fixer" & wetting agent. And a method to get your negatives loaded in the reel in the dark. As mentioned, go to Ruby, talk to Mr Ho and tell him you want to learn how to process B&W negatives and he will show you how to go it. You need to prepare to make mistakes and don't process your first negative with important information on it. Practise makes perfect. Budget - S$100
Check out the web sites listed by Mr Keng Yong and do a google search on developing B&W. Plenty of resources on the net.
But developing into prints... this you need a dark room and more technique, which I can't advise you on this... Mr Keng Yong will be able to explain more.
Have courage.. try it out! :thumbsup:
Regards,
Chii Fei
SAFRA has a good darkroom course. Can contact the office at 63773681 (Lim Chase) for more info.
Enjoy.
Hi 17439624,
Like what juggler has said, Safra has a good darkroom course. Last time when I attended when they were still at Queensway, it was 16 lessons. Not sure if it has changed.
I'm no expert to b/w but a here's brief intro:
There are 2 parts to b/w development after you've taken the photo:
1) Film processing
2) Printing
Both parts normally require separate 3 chemical process, developer -> stop bath -> Fixer. Some think that the stop bath is optional. The wetting agent chiif mentioned is after washing your film, and allows the film to dry without splotches of water stains.
Many books and also resources are available online. For (1) film processing, it is relatively easy. In addition to the developing tank and chemicals, you will probably need stopwatch, measuring flasks, thermometer, dark bag(to load the film to the tank) and ice.
For (2), you will need in addition to above, an enlarger, enlarger lens, trays, paper, and darkroom.
For both, you will also need access to a lot of water. Washing the film and prints takes a lot of water.
Plus understanding spouse and family members who will put up with the smell of the chemicals. Which reminds me, a lot of the chemicals are carcinogenic, if not poisonous, so gloves are likely needed and careful labelling/storage and out of reach.
Like what juggler has said, Safra has a good darkroom course. Last time when I attended when they were still at Queensway, it was 16 lessons. Not sure if it has changed.
I'm no expert to b/w but a here's brief intro:
There are 2 parts to b/w development after you've taken the photo:
1) Film processing
2) Printing
Both parts normally require separate 3 chemical process, developer -> stop bath -> Fixer. Some think that the stop bath is optional. The wetting agent chiif mentioned is after washing your film, and allows the film to dry without splotches of water stains.
Many books and also resources are available online. For (1) film processing, it is relatively easy. In addition to the developing tank and chemicals, you will probably need stopwatch, measuring flasks, thermometer, dark bag(to load the film to the tank) and ice.
For (2), you will need in addition to above, an enlarger, enlarger lens, trays, paper, and darkroom.
For both, you will also need access to a lot of water. Washing the film and prints takes a lot of water.
Plus understanding spouse and family members who will put up with the smell of the chemicals. Which reminds me, a lot of the chemicals are carcinogenic, if not poisonous, so gloves are likely needed and careful labelling/storage and out of reach.
hi,
thanks alot guys for your valuable input. i heard the course at safra is quite good and they have darkroom with facilities for printing as well, but got to be member lah. instead of trying to set up a darkroom at home, i thought safra might be a better place to do it. anyway will definatley give it a go at processing and printing, no harm trying rite? once again thanks for all your advice.
thanks alot guys for your valuable input. i heard the course at safra is quite good and they have darkroom with facilities for printing as well, but got to be member lah. instead of trying to set up a darkroom at home, i thought safra might be a better place to do it. anyway will definatley give it a go at processing and printing, no harm trying rite? once again thanks for all your advice.
There's concern that some components of developers and reducers can be carcinogenic, but if I'm wrong, please correct me here. In any case, the chemicals are still toxic and should be properly labelled and stored.
some detailed information on hazards of film developing and precautoins can be found here...
http://www.ehs.ufl.edu/HMM/photo.htm
according to them some intensifiers and reducers can be carcinogenic.. but i dont think theres are commonly used here.
http://www.ehs.ufl.edu/HMM/photo.htm
according to them some intensifiers and reducers can be carcinogenic.. but i dont think theres are commonly used here.
Intensifiers are problematic. One intensifier that is very effective but toxic is mercury. This is hardly used anymore. The other intensifier that is still being used is selenium, which should be used with care. Preferably in open air or in places that are well ventilated. When I use selenium to intensify negatives, I usually use a chemical face mask (yes I am a little kaisu) with gloves.
The most common reducers is potassium ferricyanide. This is not the same as cyanide. I have bottles of potassium ferricyanide sent from BH without any problem. I do not use a glove for this.
Bruce Barnbaum, one of the foremost B&W teachers in the US, dips his bare hands into the print developer, stop bath, fixer. The spent chemicals were then poured into his backyard, and his plants grew stronger!
I also dip my hand into the chemicals when making prints. Some people might have allergies to the chemicals. But for hobbyists, the hazards are hardly worth talking about.
The most common reducers is potassium ferricyanide. This is not the same as cyanide. I have bottles of potassium ferricyanide sent from BH without any problem. I do not use a glove for this.
Bruce Barnbaum, one of the foremost B&W teachers in the US, dips his bare hands into the print developer, stop bath, fixer. The spent chemicals were then poured into his backyard, and his plants grew stronger!
I also dip my hand into the chemicals when making prints. Some people might have allergies to the chemicals. But for hobbyists, the hazards are hardly worth talking about.
The_Cheat
Senior Member
Everything is toxic, even oxygen and water, in sufficiently large doses. Since the concentration of the developer and fixer used during development of film and paper are not high, it is definitely not toxic. It may cause irritation to different people, but a lot of things can incite allergic reaction too. Would you go about calling pollen grains toxic just because some people get irritated by it? How about bird's nest? Would you call it toxic just because people are allergic to it?
Yes, darkroom chemicals ought to be labelled properly and stored in places out of reach of children. So are a lot of other household chemicals that are even more toxic than the darkroom chemicals, like bleach, softener and detergent. Just because it is made from darkroom, don't make it anymore special than the other household chemicals.
clubgrit
Senior Member
You don't need to attend a course for B&W developing. Got to Ruby and the owner will tell you how to do it, free. Of course, the least you can do is to buy the equipment and chemicals needed from him after he tells you how. Bring a notebook, by the way, to take down notes, and ask all the questions needed.
Buy a book as well on basic darkroom techniques to complement what he tells you, and you're set. One book would be Black and White Photography - by Henry Horenstein. You should find this at Kinokuniya or Rice Ball , supposed to be recommended by teachers during courses too, according to the reviews in the link provided ... even the older editions are fine. You can just skip all the notes on taking photographs if you already know it, and jump straight to processing.
Sample excerpts from the book :
Developing The Film - not complete, but there is a summary
more excerpts
Buy a book as well on basic darkroom techniques to complement what he tells you, and you're set. One book would be Black and White Photography - by Henry Horenstein. You should find this at Kinokuniya or Rice Ball , supposed to be recommended by teachers during courses too, according to the reviews in the link provided ... even the older editions are fine. You can just skip all the notes on taking photographs if you already know it, and jump straight to processing.
Sample excerpts from the book :
Developing The Film - not complete, but there is a summary
more excerpts
clubgrit
Senior Member
No problem, 174...
Well, take it easy, learn slowly, develop first ... both your film and skills
And then there's this forum and others where you'll find other tips ...
As for printing, you'll need more space ... in the meantime, refer to the other thread here somewhere on where to print B&W negatives ...
Well, take it easy, learn slowly, develop first ... both your film and skills
And then there's this forum and others where you'll find other tips ...
As for printing, you'll need more space ... in the meantime, refer to the other thread here somewhere on where to print B&W negatives ...
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