Anyone knows how to feed audio from H1/H4n recorder directly into HDSLR video rec?


saveDqueen

New Member
Hi as per title,

I have actually done some research and found that the Sescom cable actually would fit my need.

But with no in-depth review or friends using it, I wish to know more about the ways that I could feed my H1 audio directly into my 5dmk2.

And the backlash it may have on the audio quality (e.g. hissing/pop).

By the way I am using ML, so AGC is not a concern.

Here is the link to the Sescom cable I am talking about, and if anyone knows where to get it locally please let me know!

Sescom DSLR-MIC-MON 3.5mm Mic to Mic with Audio Monitor Tap for DSLR Cameras

Thanks people!
 

What's your purpose in This? Just record the sound then the video. using a clapper board as a mark, during post editing sync it together. It's easier rather than buying additional accessories, cramping more cables around your camera.
 

Yes that is the normal and my current workflow. Using clapperboard and snapping fingers and shotguns to do pick ups. But i have found the h1 performing best in ambient noise reduction, thus my desire.

Maybe i did not explain my current situation that is in events, wedding and run & guns situations, i could not afford the time for clappers or such, if anybody does please enlighten me.

As said, i wish to cutdown on the process during pro and post, by just pressing record on cam instead of both h1 and cam.

Isn't this a good thing getting controllable quality audio directly on cam and with the help of ML's AGC disability it makes this whole process sweeter.
 

Yes juicelink is another viable qualitative alternative, but maybe its me I'd rather find that it is too big, bulky and the space that it requires diminishes the purpose of my run & gun setups.

I do really hope that someone had actually interaction with this cable, or maybe I'm just too cheapskate for wanting to push my current equipments to the max.
 

saveDqueen said:
Yes juicelink is another viable qualitative alternative, but maybe its me I'd rather find that it is too big, bulky and the space that it requires diminishes the purpose of my run & gun setups.

I do really hope that someone had actually interaction with this cable, or maybe I'm just too cheapskate for wanting to push my current equipments to the max.

there is another one where it is built like a battery grip, but i forgot the brand.
 

Perhaps TS might wanna consider using software like dualeyes or pluraleyes to automatically sync the h1 audio to the video, eliminating the need for a clapper board? Then just mount the h1 onto the 5d hotshoe.
 

Hi rcyulez, I am looking to remove that stage of using pluraleyes too by using the above mentioned Sescom cable.

But I am not informed of dualeyes, would take a look at it, thanks for the input.

Hope there's someone out there who's using this cable and could give some inputs!
 

Okay! I hope someone would know it!

And I would check it out too! thanks!
 


The better way to do safety audio should be: Mic to 2 way splitter: one to recorder and another to camera. Monitor on the recorder. Any good recording on the camera is the bonus. But the monitored and direct recording is money in the bank.

If you use take the mic signal and feed it through the zoom first, then split the signal on the zoom's headphone jack between your camera and the headphone, you are jeopardizing the quality of the camera recording in two ways: first the hiss and feedback from the recorder goes into the camera and second the movement of your headphone will rattle the split connection and cause more static. The chances of having a good recording on your camera (the bonus) becomes very slim.

Having said that, the h1 is a poor choice of recorder for this set up because its external input jack is powered by a small driving EMF for electret mic and strangely this power cannot be switched off. The small voltage will travel up the chain and go into the camera, causing very audible buzzing.
Invest in a H2 to avoid this problem. The H2's menus has an option to switch off external mic power.

To avoid the hassle of safety recording all together, consider upgrading to a Mark3 or Sony A99/VG20/30/900. These cameras have headphone jacks.
But if you don't mind throwing good money after bad, consider getting a marantz PMD661 instead of a Zoom. The Marantz has XLR input and more secure RCA audio output. With the RCA out, you can connect to a bluetooth transmitter to send audio to camera wirelessly. No more cable mess on the camera. The marantz level indicator is also conveniently facing you if you wear the unit on your belt or chest.
 

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Nice reply, monitored and direct recording with a quality mic is on the top of my list but I guess being on low budget setup has its limits.

Oh yes thanks for the technical details on the buzzing issue, I would do a further research on the splitter. But as for now I would leave my setup as the way it is then, as event and wedding highlights rarely require specific audio pickups.

With that said, I am looking forward to be able to invest in a H4n for and Rode NTG for my next setup to improve the overall sound quality.

The Marantz is a really good upgrade but I could get the previous mention items with the price of Marantz.

Thanks bamboo, great input by you.
 

hey I'm using a similar setup for my guys at work.

We just use a splitter from the H4N, one to a headphone, another 3.5 to 3.5mm to the mic jack in the DSLR (using 60Ds and 5D Mark IIs here). The audio feeds into the DSLR's footage, we don't sync audio and video anymore, which is quite a time saver in post.

We still push two buttons (on the DSLR and the H4N), but the H4N now just serves as a backup audio file.

My problem is that of ergonomics... I have wireless mic receivers dangling from the XLR ports of the H4N, which makes the whole setup kinda messy...sigh.
 

Guys, where do you buy the splitter. I bought a splitter from a HDB audio video shop. It doesn't work. Cost me $9. Been trying to set up my Zoom H4N with my Rode like TS.
 

Guys, where do you buy the splitter. I bought a splitter from a HDB audio video shop. It doesn't work. Cost me $9. Been trying to set up my Zoom H4N with my Rode like TS.

$9??!!! That's a rip-off. It should cost no more than $5. Its just your garden-variety 1/8" stereo splitter for headphones. Available at most budget centres, electronic shops, hardware stores, etc. You can go for the sexy iphone Y-cabled type (cost $9 maybe:) or the plain vanilla black plastic housing. Saw a colorful Y-shaped plastic version on 6th flr SLS Indian shop.

BTW, if you're using a 7D/60D/600/650D, you can monitor audio from the AV out with a RCA to 3.5mm female Y cable. Powered headphone boosters like boosteroo or those from Audio Technica will let you control the headphone volume. Maybe, you don't need the splitter (or H4N) then.
 

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To Pewpew: hey pewpew may I know where u got ur cable from!? Very excited to know that something like that exists in SG

To daniyal & bamboo: i have read that normal splitters would not work for this setup, the wire connecting 5dmk2 and h4n requires a pre-set of -25dbs am I right? As the output and input for dslrs and h4n differs right? Sorry i am poor on audio technical terms, but I read all these from some great articles explaining it
 

2nd lvl sls. It's an audio hardwareshop in the inner corner, surrounded by shops selling security cams.
The uncle helped me DIY lots of audio cables.

Normal splitters worked for me.
so splitter from 3.5 jack in H4N, one to your headphone, another to a 3.5 to 3.5 cable to your DSLR 3.5 mic jack.
If you really want audio monitoring on ur DSLR, can try magic lantern.
Do note that ML is a software that might disrupt, damage your cam hor. So far it hasn't for my trash cam.
 

PewPew>>> I have just installed ML V2.3. Yet to try them out. Will check out the splitter today. Need one badly. This thread juz renew my eagerness to buy the splitter.

saveDqueen>>> Me too Bro. I am also kind poor on audio setup. Whatever I know and I have tried are those from less than 7mins video.
 

A splitter is a splitter. It has no attenuation built in. The sescom cable is a pad cable with high resistance so that your audio levels are lowered for the DSLR. If you need it, connect it downstream of the splitter. If you want something with variable resistance, you can also use a headphone volume controller instead of a pad cable, just make sure it to get one that dials down to zero.( infinite resistance) I stress " dial" , the lever type don't go all the way down to zero volume. You can adjust the volume only when you are not recording. Otherwise, you will hear a loud ROAR when the dial turns! I use this once upon a time.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/478645-REG/Shure_EA650_EA650_In_Line_Headphone.html
 

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