For me I'm using incident light meter for studio setups. If you're more experienced, you would know what colours can be used to roughly give you the equivalent metering output of a grey card. That's for you to experiment with.
About Metering
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For me I'm using incident light meter for studio setups. If you're more experienced, you would know what colours can be used to roughly give you the equivalent metering output of a grey card. That's for you to experiment with.
Actually, if the surroundings are not too extreme (snow or tar pit or too contrasty), just compose and let the matrix metering do it's job. Results should be acceptable most of the time. Then you just need to recognize the 10% - 20% situations where you have to compensate. With DSLRs and histograms, learning your camera's behavior should not be too difficult.
For a cheap incident metering method, face the palm of your hand in the angle you wish and meter off it. use the top fo your hand for darker skinned subjects.
Incidently, I prefer to use good old center weighted metering for subjects with AE lock to get the exposure I want. Takes experience to know where to place your meter. I don't use spot metering in this case because your subject's forehead might be oily and reflect more light then normal, makes your meter overcompensate for the light thus getting darker exposures.
To be sure, incident metering is almost always better IMO.
Samuel
Incidently, I prefer to use good old center weighted metering for subjects with AE lock to get the exposure I want. Takes experience to know where to place your meter. I don't use spot metering in this case because your subject's forehead might be oily and reflect more light then normal, makes your meter overcompensate for the light thus getting darker exposures.
To be sure, incident metering is almost always better IMO.
Samuel
Btw, in case the TS didn't get it, it is pretty weird to to measure HIS forehead, especially if it was a FEMALE model.
Samuel
Samuel
well, sorry for my joke, cause u put she then later he.
To answer ur question, a good way should be using indecent meter. If spot meter, take reading of the shadow, then highlight then use somewhere in between , for spot meter, you can try to take reading like more than 2 , for like 4 spot in the frame w different light , then take the average. Best is include one reading on model face , the average put near to the model face reading side i think.
To answer ur question, a good way should be using indecent meter. If spot meter, take reading of the shadow, then highlight then use somewhere in between , for spot meter, you can try to take reading like more than 2 , for like 4 spot in the frame w different light , then take the average. Best is include one reading on model face , the average put near to the model face reading side i think.
Sharks! I just noticed that, have edited the post already. Sorry, guys.
Thank you for all the inputs so far, gotta try it out some time, how much is gray card btw? Might go get some if I can afford.
Thank you for all the inputs so far, gotta try it out some time, how much is gray card btw? Might go get some if I can afford.
What does an indecent meter measure? Where can I get one? Must be a pretty handy gadget
indecent meter measures by number of X
X
XX
XXX
XXXXXXXXXX
it is the opposite of moral meter, common brands of moral meter are buddism, islam, hinduism, Christianity.......
X
XX
XXX
XXXXXXXXXX
it is the opposite of moral meter, common brands of moral meter are buddism, islam, hinduism, Christianity.......
You guys nearly made me keel over the chair and fall on the floor laughing.... :bsmilie: :bsmilie:
oooh, and all the while I thought indecent light meter had something to do with running light (走光
[translation : accidental indecent exposure].Light meter might not be necessary or even real useful if you're shooting outdoors. Why not just look at playback / histogram and judge from there? On a bright sunny day, if a cloud covers the sun, suddenly it's darker by one or two stops. Or if the model turns to face the other way, the light will change also. I don't think you want to go to the trouble of metering each time it happens...
One of the common 10-20% times the auto metering doesn't work is back-lighting. Just have to watch out for that. When that happens, you got a choice between model underexposed, or sky/bright background overexposed, or use flash/reflector/other light.
One of the common 10-20% times the auto metering doesn't work is back-lighting. Just have to watch out for that. When that happens, you got a choice between model underexposed, or sky/bright background overexposed, or use flash/reflector/other light.
you are correct to say about using light meter in a practical outdoor situation for TS.
however, whichever metering methods the photographer uses, he/she must understand the fundamental of exposure issue or how the metering works, else he/she will keep seeking the ultimate camera/lens/light meter to get the perfect shot.
anyway, usually when the pros using light meter, he/she will not be taking just one reading only.
he/she will also know the lighting ratio he wants, factor if the cloud cover the sun.
while shooting, also keep an eye for any lighting changes.
Or get an assistant to monitor the changing conditions and call out relative adjustments ;p
yes, during the film days, one of the assistant task is to inform the photographer about the changes of lighting, beside countering the frame left the film backs, changing the film back, reload films, etc.
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