A DSLR newbie's first trial of 7D

[spurssy]

(Part 1)
Today is the first day I had a chance to try out my 7D in daylight, hence I went out early in the morning to Bishan Park to learn about my new camera. Here are some of my shots and findings.

Bear in my mind that the main aim of this trip to familiarise with the difference functions and not so much on composition, and although not very new to photography, I'm new to DSLR.. otherwise, feel free to comment.

Lense used: KM 28-75mm f2.8 D, Daylight filter for all shots. All shots shown here were not post-processed in any way other than resizing and cropping.

I started out with close shots of flowers and they were quite good IMO. The following were all taken using normal program mode.

1/60s f4

1/60s f4

1/200s f3.2

to be continued...

 

[spurssy]

Part 2

Next I went for some tree shots...

1/40s f2.8

1/60s f7.1

I must say.. the Green looks good, and sharpness is good.
Some more flowers...

1/640s f2.8 - Wierd shutter speed here

1/100s f2.8 - Aperture priority used

to be continued...

 

[spurssy]

Third Part

Next I tried out some action shots...

1/250s f2.8 Aperture Priority

1/200s f2.8 Aperture Priority

IMO I should have used a faster shutter speed, hence I might need a higher ISO for these. Forgot to mention all photos were taken with ISO 100.

To be continued...

 

[spurssy]

Finally, some landscape shots...

1/60s f16 Aperture Priority
This shot seems overly dark (metered by camera) ... either I need to push up ISO, or increase shutter duration manually.

1/640s f2.8 Aperture Priority

Finally, I took a shot of the park map, and was quite happy with the sharpness. Taken at about 2 metres from signboard.

1/200s f3.5 Normal Program

Enlarged to 100%

Ok that's all folks... I've a lot to learn.. hope to hear comments.

Adams

 

[UY79]

This shot seems overly dark (metered by camera) ... either I need to push up ISO, or increase shutter duration manually.

No use pushing up ISO, the camera will still give the same result. What you need to do when shooting on a overcast day is to dial in positive exposure compensation. Add about 0.7 or more to get a better look. Positive exposure compensation will increase the shutter duration in A mode, so no need to go into manual mode for that.

Cheers!

 

[deslim27]

spurssy! I like you flower pictures in part 1.. well done!!

Anyway, I like the color straight from camera so far.. KM color really nice!

 

[Drudkh]

here are mine http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=104338

 

[DuDuDu]

wow, i like the color of it, feel so natural when shoot the natural.

 

[T.A.]

wow, i like the color of it, feel so natural when shoot the natural.

I agree! :gbounce:

 

[spurssy]

No use pushing up ISO, the camera will still give the same result. What you need to do when shooting on a overcast day is to dial in positive exposure compensation. Add about 0.7 or more to get a better look. Positive exposure compensation will increase the shutter duration in A mode, so no need to go into manual mode for that.

That's one thing that I hasn't tried... anyway do you think a change of the metering mode would do any difference? The photos were all taken using Honeycomb metering... so I believed there shouldn't be a diff which area I point when half-click - but it matters in spot metering... or am I wrong?

Adams

 

[Flare]

That's one thing that I hasn't tried... anyway do you think a change of the metering mode would do any difference? The photos were all taken using Honeycomb metering... so I believed there shouldn't be a diff which area I point when half-click - but it matters in spot metering... or am I wrong?

Adams

well, honey comb just uses the entire frame, divide into segments and read the lighting, goes through some fuzzy logic and comes up with an exposure setting, while sport metering just use the center spot. But although the honey-comb metering is pretty good, it'll still be fooled when large portion of the frame is filled with a certain brightness (especially a very bright like the sky) like in the sky shot, which leads to under exposure, thus you should pus the ev compensation up a little

But for me, how the honey comb metering meters is complicated and thus difficult to compensate. For situation like the sky shot, i would ahve used spot on the sky and then do a +0.7 - 1 ev compensation.

(I love spot metering and is essential for me!!! Why doesn't some camera maker put it in their mid range??? :dunno: Wierd logic)

 

[UY79]

But for me, how the honey comb metering meters is complicated and thus difficult to compensate. For situation like the sky shot, i would ahve used spot on the sky and then do a +0.7 - 1 ev compensation.

(I love spot metering and is essential for me!!! Why doesn't some camera maker put it in their mid range??? :dunno: Wierd logic)

Honeycomb almost always expose for the brighter part of the scene, without regards to areas of lower brightness.

In high constrast scene, compensation might not help too if the light level is more than what you can compensate, and such compensation is more likely to be a estimation which might not result in what you want to correctly expose.

Spot meter allows you to expose for subjects correctly if you know how to use it as it takes the area you spot meter with to be neutral.

The answer to the last question is product segmentation. If you need it, you have to pay more to get a better body that has it.

Cheers!

 

[espn]

Hey spurssy, finally 'upgraded' to a 7D?

 

[spurssy]

Hey spurssy, finally 'upgraded' to a 7D?

Yesh... after a long wait... I nearly became a Nikonian... luckily i didn't.. loved my 7D already!

Adams

 

[espn]

Hahaha, keep shooting then. :thumbsup: