500CM to 203FE - A12 to E12

[ghoonk]

Picked up my Hassy 500CM from Chiif Cameras on my last trip back to Singapore and have now been badly bitten by the Hassy bug. I've been shooting with the 500CM for two weeks and really enjoy the pictures and the style of shooting, and have been contemplating adding another body to the mix - a 203FE

Would like some advice from Hassy users here on this - the 203FE is supposed to be quite a quantum leap ahead of the 500CM, but I'm also told that I can continue using my CF T* lenses (got an 80/2.8 on route, and am using a 120/4 Makro-Planar now) as well as the A12 backs that I have on hand (around 5 A12 backs).

Can 203FE users confirm that this is correct, that the A12 backs will work? From various online resources, I have found that the CF lenses work just fine, but I can't seem to find anything on the A12-E12 compatibility.

Thanks in advance

Ken

 

[ghoonk]

well, it looks like the E12 backs have data connectors while the A12 ones don't, so they don't pass film information over to the 203FE.

Aside from that, it appears that the 203FEs are pretty complicated beasts to tame compared to the 500CM. Any 203FE users here care to share their experiences, or whether Shriro run classes in the day to teach people to use them

 

[singscott]

Answer in short is yes A12 and CF lenses will work for 203FE but you lose the special metering. For the metering to work you need FE lenses or CFE lenses and E mags. To tell they are these item you need to look for two blue parallel line on the lenses and mags.

 

[ghoonk]

ah, I get it now, thanks

Been checking out prices of the 203FE, and while it is an excellent camera, it's definitely out of my budget for now. Would love to pick one up someday soon though. Love shooting film (especially B&W), but finding a place to get it developed and printed here in Dubai is a bit of a hit-or-miss affair. I could get the developer and fixer, but still need to find a place to print.

By the way, do you have any idea where to get 220 film in Singapore?

 

[singscott]

Getting 120 film is hard enough I am afraid the only two source for 220 films is eBay or equipment vendors from the internet like B&H or Adorama.

 

[beanokim]

Hi, you don't need an E12 magazine or CFE/FE lenses for the 203 to work.

The difference between the A12 and E12 is that on the E12, you set the ISO on back and the info is transmitted to the body. With an A12 back, you will need to manually set the ISO in the camera by going to the PR mode and using the up and down arrows to set the ISO.

As for the CFE lenses, they tell the camera what the aperture is. If you're using a CF or CFi lens, all you need to do if you are shooting at anything other than the max open aperture, is to step down the lens, meter, then shoot.

Also, the camera is far from being sophisticated. It is if you compare it to the 500 series, but really, all the function knob does is allow you to select Aperture priority, Differential, Zone or Manual.

In short, a 203FE will give you a body with a good built in metering system that is fully compatible with A12 backs and CF, CFi lenses.

 

[ghoonk]

@beanokim - so the benefit of the 203FE is in the automated metering? I'm guessing my 500CM with a PME90/45 should be able to do most of that and I set my aperture/shutterspeed manually, right? Or am I missing something

 

[beanokim]

Yup, you are spot on. The benefits however of the 203FE over a 500CM with a meter in the prism is the ability to go with intermediate shutter speeds like 1/350, or 2 sec, 3 sec etc. Not to mention the ability to use the faster FE lenses like the 100mm F2.0.

Apart from that, no other difference.

 

[ghoonk]

well, nice to have those capabilities, but I kinda figure I need to start somewhere, and with a D3s, D700, X100, RB67 and a Bessa R3M in my bag, it's probably not wise to hit up a USD2.5k camera for my 'first' MF

 

[beanokim]

Wow. Do you actually carry ALL that gear when you shoot?

With the existing kind of hardware that you already have, you certainly have no need for 203FE. If I were you, I would spend the US$2,500 on the wonderful range of Carl Zeiss lenses instead. A 500CM is no different from the 205FCC once the mirror is up. It's just a dark box to let focused light fall on the film plane.

You don't even need a prism finder. For me, that takes away the joy of the waist level finder. You could simply meter with your D3s then set the correct shutter and aperture for your 500CM. The metering on today's 35mm SLRs are so much more advanced than the center weighted metering on the 203FE and the spot metering on the 205FCC.

If you are into landscape photography, I would strongly recommend the Carl Zeiss 40mm. It is the lens that I use most often.

Here are some photos taken with my 40mm on 120 Velvia 50.

 

[ghoonk]

heh. i don't carry them ALL at one go, unless I'm on a road trip in which case they all fit in the back seat. If anything, the F7 bag comes along with me, holding the 500CM with 80/2.8CF, 120/4CF MakroPlanar with hood, 4 A12 backs (1 on body), 2 Polaroid backs (loaded with FP100C and FP3000B), light meter winder, spare lens and body caps, along with the RB67 with a mounted 127/3.5KL lens. Side pockets holds my X100 with 2 spare batteries, 4 SDHC cards and a rocket blower, etc. And the Bessa R3M with 40/1.4 Nokton on body on my shoulder. And that's not THAT heavy

Anyway, that's some pretty awesome pics. I'm more of a B&W shooter. But I get what you mean - the D700 will probably come along (D3s might be a little overkill), or I could bring the F3/T with a 35/2 on body to keep things light and fun

As for lenses, the 40/4 (C or CF?) came highly recommended when I got my 500CM. The 180/4 was highly recommended as well (I'm big on portraits), and I was thinking of whether to get the 40/4CF (USD1999 for a used unit!) or the 50/4C (which is a lot cheaper at USD469 used)...

And thanks to your advice, it looks like I can skip the Sekonic L356 (was thinking of getting it for flash photography), at least for now

 

[beanokim]

Looks like you already have 2 very sweet lenses. The 80 and 120 CF, and your list of equipment sounds like you're still humping a lot of gear. Good way to work out while enjoying yourself.

I would personally go for the 40mm over the 50mm. Not sure where you're at or what you're shooting, but if you're into landscapes, nothing beats the 40mm in my opinion... except the 38mm SWC, but that's a whole different monster.

If you read the reviews of the 180mm on photo.net, everyone raves about it and rates it as perhaps the sharpest lens next to the 250mm Superachromats. Some even need to use a softar before they can shoot portraits. Otherwise it's just too cruelly sharp and unforgiving for the subjects. You might want to consider adding an extension tube to get that close up head shot. Not something I have done personally but also read about others recommending it on photo.net.

 

[ghoonk]

Good point. I've been minding the extension tubes cos I haven't been able to figure out which ones on eBay fit on the V series Hassy lenses and bodies

Yeah, I heard about the 180s being too sharp and I have a softar iii that I plan to try out but it does kind of defeat the purpose of an awesomely sharp lens

 

[beanokim]

Good point. I've been minding the extension tubes cos I haven't been able to figure out which ones on eBay fit on the V series Hassy lenses and bodies

Yeah, I heard about the 180s being too sharp and I have a softar iii that I plan to try out but it does kind of defeat the purpose of an awesomely sharp lens

All tubes will work on the v series. The tubes that have the e suffix, like 8e or 32e have the additional contacts to transmit aperture info to the 200 series bodies. Otherwise, no difference. The only thing you need to figure out is the exposure compensation factor with the different tubes.

The aim of the photographer is to make the subject look as beautiful as possible, and not show them that the lens has a 100 lp/mm resolution power, showing every open pore or blemish. If you were shooting landscape though, then even bit of detail counts.

Have fun.

 

[ghoonk]

cool. That means I can start looking at extension tubes

The 180 is amazingly good, and while it's less versatile than the 120 makro planar (I can get in closer), the sharpness is quite noticeable, which makes it pretty ideal for city shots

Been thinking of whether to save up for a CFV / CFV II for the 500CM or get a ZD-22 digital back with adapter for the RB67, and get going with some studio lights... do you guys know anyone selling a CFV or ZD back in Singapore?

 

[bimbim1207]

Hi for portrait I have heard and read a few review that it is much cheaper to get a 150/4 with extension tubes than digging deep in your pocket to get a Sonnar 180/4, though the sharpness is just slightly lower. However, if you dont mind spending for it, than just go for the 180 Sonnar.

Also, I personally have no experience on the extension tubes and the information I need to find is not there on the Internet, so I'm seeking for some advice on a tube on my 80mm CF Planar that allow me to get close enough to the subject (I usually shoot flowers), but totally not macro. Let say focusing at about 20-30cm (since the 80mm Planar closest distance is 0.9m).

In short, I need something like this (a picture speaks thousand of words, haha):

(This is not my work! Thanks to the photographer!)

Can anyone figure it out which tube was used? Any experience on controlling the DOF when using them? I heard that using some kind of tubes totally destroy the background even at f/11.

Really appreciate your kindly help! Thanks a lot!

Cheers,

 

[beanokim]

Hi for portrait I have heard and read a few review that it is much cheaper to get a 150/4 with extension tubes than digging deep in your pocket to get a Sonnar 180/4, though the sharpness is just slightly lower. However, if you dont mind spending for it, than just go for the 180 Sonnar.

Also, I personally have no experience on the extension tubes and the information I need to find is not there on the Internet, so I'm seeking for some advice on a tube on my 80mm CF Planar that allow me to get close enough to the subject (I usually shoot flowers), but totally not macro. Let say focusing at about 20-30cm (since the 80mm Planar closest distance is 0.9m).

In short, I need something like this (a picture speaks thousand of words, haha):

(This is not my work! Thanks to the photographer!)

Can anyone figure it out which tube was used? Any experience on controlling the DOF when using them? I heard that using some kind of tubes totally destroy the background even at f/11.

Really appreciate your kindly help! Thanks a lot!

Cheers,

Here are 2 pictures I took of the same flower, first one with a 180mm and the 32e tube on Velvia 50. That allowed me to get pretty close without casting my own shadow. The second was with the same setup and a softar 2. I think it softens it a little.

Not sure how much magnification you can get with each tube, but there's a wealth of information on photo.net and www.hasselbladhistorical.eu. Both would be good sources to find out how close you can get.

I have the 8e and 32e tubes and they're great.

From the numerous reviews that I've read, the 180mm far outshines the 150mm so if you can, I would go for the 180mm. Plus medium format gear prices have dropped so much and stabilized at this all time low, you probably wouldn't lose anything if you re-sold it, and might even make a little if you picked up a good 180mm.

Sorry, but I can't help you with the digital backs. No experience there, and certainly no money. Velvia 50 is my Hasselblad's best companion. It is my absolute go to film.

 

[ghoonk]

well, no regret getting the 180 then!

It arrived last week, so now I have the 80/2.8, 120/4 and 180/4. Thinking of picking up a 50, as the 40 is just way out of my budget

 

[beanokim]

well, no regret getting the 180 then!

It arrived last week, so now I have the 80/2.8, 120/4 and 180/4. Thinking of picking up a 50, as the 40 is just way out of my budget

Congratulations on getting the 180. You won't regret it. The 50 is a nice lens too. If the 40 is not for you then the 50 will do fine. I think this will be the only format you'll be carrying around from now on. Enjoy, and please share your pictures.

 

[ghoonk]

First couple of rolls didn't come out great. Will need some more work, and for my V750 scanner to arrive before I can share any scans

But will look forward to catching up with you guys when I get back to Singapore in July!