2100 users, please roll in...

[Linus]

Seems like I am so suay, always encountered problems with my 2100uz. One question to ask all of you here, is your IS lens noisy?
I understand that there are some noises due to the mechanism inside the lens, but it seemed too noisy leh...


By the way, hope this can be a gathering place for all 2100 users to post their queries? just a suggestion, no flames..

 

[kaipium]

i have a C2100UZ.

Have no problems with it at all, but maybe that is because I have yet to explore it.

Have been reading all about hot pixels, dead pixels, noise etc and am still trying to understand all these terms.

Still not too sure about the noise that you mentioned here because I was already confused by Jayan's pics and statement that they are too noisy. Your lens can be noisy maybe while zooming, but a photo also can be noisy meh?

 

[Linus]

Originally posted by kaipium
i have a C2100UZ.

Have no problems with it at all, but maybe that is because I have yet to explore it.

Have been reading all about hot pixels, dead pixels, noise etc and am still trying to understand all these terms.

Still not too sure about the noise that you mentioned here because I was already confused by Jayan's pics and statement that they are too noisy. Your lens can be noisy maybe while zooming, but a photo also can be noisy meh?

when we mention about noisy photos, we mean that there are artifacts on the pictures we took *not sure whether is artifacts the right word or not*. In other words, the photos may contains some speckles which are not supposed to be there.

 

[tangcy]

Good, we can exchange tips lah... get the old bird to join too, Jayan etc etc

 

[Linus]

Originally posted by tangcy
Good, we can exchange tips lah... get the old bird to join too, Jayan etc etc

how's your camera?

anyway, i am going down to oly sg this fridae to get the hot pixel problem fixed..

 

[Bluestrike]

When we say "noisy Pic" we mean that there are some speck of green, red, blue type of dots in the pic. It is usually cause by the pixels been too warm thus the word "hot pixel". Ususally happened when the exposure timming is too long, abt 1s and a above. The newwer generations of DC have come better equiped with software in it that reduce it.

 

[Jayan]

Originally posted by Linus
Seems like I am so suay, always encountered problems with my 2100uz. One question to ask all of you here, is your IS lens noisy?
I understand that there are some noises due to the mechanism inside the lens, but it seemed too noisy leh...

By the way, hope this can be a gathering place for all 2100 users to post their queries? just a suggestion, no flames..

Due to the Image Stabilizer in the lens, you'll be able hear a low humming and sometimes a 'crakling' sound when u place ur ear onto the lens barrel or when it is extremely quiet....

 

[Linus]

Originally posted by Jayan


Due to the Image Stabilizer in the lens, you'll be able hear a low humming and sometimes a 'crakling' sound when u place ur ear onto the lens barrel or when it is extremely quiet....

yup, that's right. SO i assume that everything is fine?

 

[Jayan]

Originally posted by Bluestrike
When we say "noisy Pic" we mean that there are some speck of green, red, blue type of dots in the pic. It is usually cause by the pixels been too warm thus the word "hot pixel". Ususally happened when the exposure timming is too long, abt 1s and a above. The newwer generations of DC have come better equiped with software in it that reduce it.

Correct.

Though a cool C-2100UZ should not develop hot pixels until abt 2 sec (thru my experience).

 

[tangcy]

Where is it? Would like to join you but my lunchtime from 12-1pm. They open during lunch time?

Originally posted by Linus


how's your camera?

anyway, i am going down to oly sg this fridae to get the hot pixel problem fixed..

 

[Bluestrike]

Originally posted by Jayan


Correct.

Though a cool C-2100UZ should not develop hot pixels until abt 2 sec (thru my experience).

Yes it abt there.... Generally, a lot of factors still contribute to the hot pixels like warm weather, long exposure etc etc etc.

The best is that you know your own DC like the back of your hands, then from there know how to go abt it. That in other words, master the DC !

 

[Tweek]

Originally posted by kaipium
i have a C2100UZ.

Have no problems with it at all, but maybe that is because I have yet to explore it.

Have been reading all about hot pixels, dead pixels, noise etc and am still trying to understand all these terms.

Still not too sure about the noise that you mentioned here because I was already confused by Jayan's pics and statement that they are too noisy. Your lens can be noisy maybe while zooming, but a photo also can be noisy meh?

I got a simple article that might help you...
please go to http://www.weekai.com and click on "information"

 

[kaipium]

Originally posted by Tweek


I got a simple article that might help you...
please go to http://www.weekai.com and click on "information"

hmmm, simple but easy to understand. Thanks for the article.

 

[minitaz]

sorry... I forgotten actually how to find hot pixels... anyone??
:embrass:

 

[Linus]

Originally posted by minitaz
sorry... I forgotten actually how to find hot pixels... anyone??
:embrass:

this was from jayan:

go to manual mode
set to SHQ, ISO 100
ensure all other settings are constant, e.g aperture

take a closed-lens shot with shutter speed of 4 secs and below


then look at the pics. If there is a bright spot which appears in every pic, that means it is most likely a hot pixel.

 

[Jayan]

Ok, here it goes again (taken from my previous post):

" I assume u know how to do the black frame test by leaving the lens cap on.

First, set ur ISO to 100, not AUTO. If not ur DC will set automatically to ISO 400 under complete darkness. At ISO 200/400 there'll be lotsa 'noise' even at short exposure.

Second, make sure that ur DC is cool b4 attempting to do the test. A warm DC and CCD will produce more noise' than usual.

Third, do the test in TIFF or SHQ image quality only.

Fourth, do a complete test from 16sec, 13sec, 10 sec, right down to 1/10 sec (or lower, up to you). The aperture, zoom and other settings should remain the same at all times.

If a bright pixel appears at all shutter speed...then this is a dead pixel. The only way to cure is to do an exchange (at AP or Olympus SG) or get Olympus SG to replace the CCD.

If the pixel doesn't appear initially but get more obvious and bright as the shutter gets slower, then this is a hot pixel. Don't worry, this is normal, even my DC has a few at slower shutter speed. What u can do is to pay Oly SG a visit and ask them to upgrade ur firmware...that'll will reduce (not eliminate) the amount of noise and hot pixels.

Actually anything that's noiseless and w/o hot pixels at 4 sec is very good already....anything beyond that is a bonus liao, I've already accepted this fact.

Hope these tips helps."

 

[Blitz]

Bwhaha the legendary dead/hot pixel test post again

Jayan u dun need sleep one ah?

Originally posted by Jayan
Ok, here it goes again (taken from my previous post):

" I assume u know how to do the black frame test by leaving the lens cap on.

First, set ur ISO to 100, not AUTO. If not ur DC will set automatically to ISO 400 under complete darkness. At ISO 200/400 there'll be lotsa 'noise' even at short exposure.

Second, make sure that ur DC is cool b4 attempting to do the test. A warm DC and CCD will produce more noise' than usual.

Third, do the test in TIFF or SHQ image quality only.

Fourth, do a complete test from 16sec, 13sec, 10 sec, right down to 1/10 sec (or lower, up to you). The aperture, zoom and other settings should remain the same at all times.

If a bright pixel appears at all shutter speed...then this is a dead pixel. The only way to cure is to do an exchange (at AP or Olympus SG) or get Olympus SG to replace the CCD.

If the pixel doesn't appear initially but get more obvious and bright as the shutter gets slower, then this is a hot pixel. Don't worry, this is normal, even my DC has a few at slower shutter speed. What u can do is to pay Oly SG a visit and ask them to upgrade ur firmware...that'll will reduce (not eliminate) the amount of noise and hot pixels.

Actually anything that's noiseless and w/o hot pixels at 4 sec is very good already....anything beyond that is a bonus liao, I've already accepted this fact.

Hope these tips helps."

 

[Jayan]

Originally posted by Blitz
Bwhaha the legendary dead/hot pixel test post again

Jayan u dun need sleep one ah?

Sleep?!?!

Don't have that kinda luxury ..

Now in office....yawn.....

 

[copland]

Originally posted by Jayan
Ok, here it goes again (taken from my previous post):

" I assume u know how to do the black frame test by leaving the lens cap on.

First, set ur ISO to 100, not AUTO. If not ur DC will set automatically to ISO 400 under complete darkness. At ISO 200/400 there'll be lotsa 'noise' even at short exposure.

Second, make sure that ur DC is cool b4 attempting to do the test. A warm DC and CCD will produce more noise' than usual.

Third, do the test in TIFF or SHQ image quality only.

Fourth, do a complete test from 16sec, 13sec, 10 sec, right down to 1/10 sec (or lower, up to you). The aperture, zoom and other settings should remain the same at all times.

If a bright pixel appears at all shutter speed...then this is a dead pixel. The only way to cure is to do an exchange (at AP or Olympus SG) or get Olympus SG to replace the CCD.

If the pixel doesn't appear initially but get more obvious and bright as the shutter gets slower, then this is a hot pixel. Don't worry, this is normal, even my DC has a few at slower shutter speed. What u can do is to pay Oly SG a visit and ask them to upgrade ur firmware...that'll will reduce (not eliminate) the amount of noise and hot pixels.

Actually anything that's noiseless and w/o hot pixels at 4 sec is very good already....anything beyond that is a bonus liao, I've already accepted this fact.

Hope these tips helps."

Jayan, can make this a sticky already

 

[minitaz]

thanks...

if a dead pixel is found, and cost involved to replace the CCD??