1 yr EOS 30D(2nd hand) vs new EOS 400D

[calebk]

30D. no need to think about it. surpasses the 400D in terms of usability when it comes to build, frame rate and higher iso control. not to mention faster shutter lag and faster mirror blackout relative to the 400D.

Definitely the 30D wins in terms of features. But I find myself asking whether the TS needs the features.

No,pro as in the function.ie the ISo,shutter,FF and so on which i read from dpreview.
I have a drycabi already.The F1 im thinking of probly using the Sigma 70-300mm which cost only $120 second hand here

FYI, pros/enthusiasts who shoot F1 from the stands usually use lenses 300mm or longer, which are usually fast (f/2.8 or f/4). Use the 70-300 and I'd rather you sit in the stands and enjoy the race. The AF speed will make you cry.

sorry i referred FF as burst frame.

Sorry to be harsh but I don't see how FF can possibly relate to frame rate.

All in all, I'd think the money would be wiser spent when you learn more about photography. Buying a DSLR to shoot in P or Auto is not wrong, but it's not wise usage of money, and not wise usage of the equipment placed in your hands.

Of course, it's your money and you can spend it however you wish, but I think that learning more about photography first should precede plonking so much cash down on something which you will use 30% of the features of.

Frankly I don't see why you need the extra one stop of ISO (both 400D and 30D shoot as high as ISO 1600, but 30D has the option to shoot at ISO3200, but I've never used it; it's just too grainy to process out), the extra FPS (most enthusiasts survive on 3 fps. I seldom shoot continuous to begin with) and the better build (you're not a pro who throws your equipment around. I hope you don't even throw your equipment around to begin with).

 

[RichardSeah]

1.7k can get me a 2nd hand 30D with a good lens.There's a 30D thread right now selling a 1 yr old 30D body for 1.1k and 17-85mm(kit II) lens for 560.Add another 100 for accessories such as CF cards.

How about this: $1.7K for a BRAND NEW 30D kit still in the box, unopened. Interested please email me: richardseah@pacific.net.sg

 

[ceecookie]

How about this: $1.7K for a BRAND NEW 30D kit still in the box, unopened. Interested please email me: richardseah@pacific.net.sg

What kit lens is it?Kit I or Kit II?

 

[lightning]

Now 30D used body is about $1K in the B&S section. Plus a used 17-40 F4L, I think it is quite a nice combie for most usage. Can even consider a 50mm F1.8 for the "fun" of it or during low light situation.

I think TS has to start somewhere. A new 400D and use 30D pricing is so close, I will advice just get the 30D, probably will use it longer and therefore more worth the money.

My advice is stay clear of 3rd party lens....I use to buy 3rd party lens in the begining....but now all my lenses are with a red rubber band, why? Cos 3rd party lens just cannot AF at the speed I wanted, and the color rendition is just somehow not the same as those with the rubber band.

To TS: Once you get a DSLR, do prepare to eat bread for all your meals...drink tap water...and see your bank account going towards the starting point!:sweat:

 

[calebk]

What kit lens is it?Kit I or Kit II?

There was only one kit option for 30D.

 

[FilterFunk]

i think there was a Kit II option during the latter stages of the 30D product life cycle. do correct me if i am wrong though.

 

[calebk]

i think there was a Kit II option during the latter stages of the 30D product life cycle. do correct me if i am wrong though.

I am unsure. Perhaps there was, but I can scarcely recall it.

 

[ceecookie]

To TS: Once you get a DSLR, do prepare to eat bread for all your meals...drink tap water...and see your bank account going towards the starting point!:sweat:

Oh i wont really worry about that,im just a 17yr old student and my dad should probly fund future lens.

I am unsure. Perhaps there was, but I can scarcely recall it.

Oh,im referring to the 17-85mm USM II Kit Lens II that is also sold with the 40D.
RichardSeah - is it this lens?

 

[aloyyolaaloy]

Oh i wont really worry about that,im just a 17yr old student and my dad should probly fund future lens.

:bsmilie: did he say he will support your hobby? or did he give you the wtf look

 

[ceecookie]

:bsmilie: did he say he will support your hobby? or did he give you the wtf look

Actually,it was his idea that i take up dSLR photography.He says my photos taken with the prosumer cam was good and suggested that i try dSLR.Initially,i didnt want that and asked for the then-latest prosumer Nikon P5000 but he insisted on an dSLR,hence the interest.

For now,he says im balancing my studies and photography(and no dSLR experience somemore) so i should start with a 2nd hand set and after going for dSLR lessons then maybe he buy new lens or body.

 

[aloyyolaaloy]

Actually,it was his idea that i take up dSLR photography.He says my photos taken with the prosumer cam was good and suggested that i try dSLR.Initially,i didnt want that and asked for the then-latest prosumer Nikon P5000 but he insisted on an dSLR,hence the interest.

For now,he says im balancing my studies and photography(and no dSLR experience somemore) so i should start with a 2nd hand set and after going for dSLR lessons then maybe he buy new lens or body.

http://clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3515246#post3515246
hope this helps

 

[unseenshadows]

Actually,it was his idea that i take up dSLR photography.He says my photos taken with the prosumer cam was good and suggested that i try dSLR.Initially,i didnt want that and asked for the then-latest prosumer Nikon P5000 but he insisted on an dSLR,hence the interest.

For now,he says im balancing my studies and photography(and no dSLR experience somemore) so i should start with a 2nd hand set and after going for dSLR lessons then maybe he buy new lens or body.

Since thats the case, you should read up on really basic stuff such as how ISO, aperture and shutter speed work hand in hand to give the correct exposure. Also understand which different focal length ranges meet different needs. Hope you have fun while learning photography.

 

[victorianmedia]

TS,

Do keep in mind that the 400D focuses faster than the 30D because of an improved AF algorithm. However if you are looking for noise control the 30D is superior, in terms of speed:

Canon EOS 30D 5.0fps
30 Large JPG Fine shots in buffer
11 RAW shots for buffer
.15s startup time
65ms shutter lag
110ms mirror blackout

Canon EOS 400D
3fps
27 Large JPG Fine/10 RAW in buffer
0.2 sec startup time
100ms shutter lag
170ms blackout time

The 30D also offers spot metering (do you need it?) and a longer shutter life (100,000 versus 50,000 for the 400D)

However, the 400D offers improved resolution (which comes in handy if you want to do cropping), slightly more accurate imaging processing (in my opinion, in terms of color accuracy and rendition, and that's if you are shooting in JPG) and this ICS (EOS Integrated Cleaning System, Canon's answer to removing sensor dust, which in my opinion is a marketing gimmick as I have doubts on its effectiveness).

For more information, you might want to refer here:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-400D-Digital-Rebel-XTi-Review.aspx
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-30D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx

Oh, and if you do choose to buy the 30D second hand, ask if he can include the Lens Workbook. It is indeed quite an invaluable resource in learning photography, and I find it is often overlooked.

Cheers to your photographic endeavours.

 

[wanzw]

To TS: Once you get a DSLR, do prepare to eat bread for all your meals...drink tap water...and see your bank account going towards the starting point!:sweat:

this is by far the most truthful advice. :sweatsm:

 

[boredphuck]

Hello there,im a (soon-to-be) newcomer to the dSLR world and i've choosen Canon since my fren got it.Soon-to-be as in confirm getting it 2 weeks from now.

You see,i wanted a new EOS 40D with kit len II but my dad didnt had that budget(2.8k) and instead stated 1k only(+ another 700 from my savings)

With that price its the region of entry level models such as 400D.However i do not want entry level ones as the functions(such as fps) of the XXD range is better.

1.7k can get me a 2nd hand 30D with a good lens.There's a 30D thread right now selling a 1 yr old 30D body for 1.1k and 17-85mm(kit II) lens for 560.Add another 100 for accessories such as CF cards.

However,1.1k can get me a new 400D body and i can use the remaining 600 for the 17-85mm kit II lens.I also do not have to buy CF since the shops throw in free 2GB CF card.

Which one do u think i should take?Megapixel count difference does not really matter since 8MP+ is good enough.

Also,can people please enlighten me about F-stop in lens(the "F4-5.6" in lens)?
Does it really matter because there's ISO and shutter speed already.

better still, find the 20D and spend your budget on a good lens. :bsmilie:

 

[TYM76]

Next year's F1 race is a NIGHT race. SO there is a chance that lighting MAY be an issue.

So if lighting is poor, i believe most lens cannot make it. Would need to good zoom or even better prime lens with big aperture, IS at mode 2 for panning stabilisation and hopefully with a good tripod/monopod, USM for fast lens response, a fast focusing camera with decent AI Servo performace in less than ideal lighting, and camera with good high ISO performance. You cannot depend on a flash if the audience stand is too far, and even if I try, the near car may appear bright and the further cars will be like dark depending on my falsh power and distance of the cars. Even so, I dun know i if i can get a decent shutter speed of perhaps 1/250-1/500? And even if i use a F2.8 or a wider aperture, can i get the whole car in the DOF? Even if the shots managed to be captured, I dun know if the pics are so good enuf. I may be better off enjoy the abundant good F1 photos other people have online.

If the lighting is poor, many cameras and lens cannot make it for F1 Night race next year la.
Better go there sit and enjoy the race and the race babes.
OH YA, can still take race babes! Race babes no need 1/250-1/500 shutter! Can Do!

If lighting is good, now tats a different story. Most cams and lens can do well in good lighting, even the 30D and 17-85.
Try loking up pbase.com and check out the many racing shots by so many less-pro cameras and lens.

I think I better save money man and watch on TV

 

[mpenza]

30D is a better camera than the 400D in terms of specs and ergnomics and could last u a long time I'm still using a 20D that's a lot more heavily used compared to others due to the way I shoot (the vertical battery grip that I got with it conked out last year!) and it still delivers I had the 400D too which I bring when I want a lighter camera.

 

[ceecookie]

Hi guys sorry for reviving this thread but is a Sigma 18-200mm better than Canon Kit II Lens 18-75mm IS USM?The bigger zoom is what's tempting me

 

[Stratix]

Hi guys sorry for reviving this thread but is a Sigma 18-200mm better than Canon Kit II Lens 18-75mm IS USM?The bigger zoom is what's tempting me

super zooms are only meant for convince, image quality is no where near standard zooms. be it sharpness, barrel distortion, or even AF speed. Not to mention, these superzooms usually short change you on the tele end.

the Canon lens you're referring to is the 17-85 IS.

since your dad is funding you, please save some money for him. get a 2nd hand 20D and a tamron 17-50 f/2.8.

if you want long lens, then get a Sigma 70-300. the night race would be bright enough.

if you fancy fast lens, start saving for it. the 70-200 f/4L IS is $1.85k new, and the 70-200 f/2.8L is 1.8k. the Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 is going for like 700 ~ 900 a piece 2nd hand, which, makes alot of sense to you. =)

 

[unseen]

....
yes the 30D has 5fps but with your intention of shooting the f1 with the sigma 70-300mm
just won't work cos the like the bro here said, the aperture is too small and worse still the
focusing of the lens itself is too slow for f1 action..so the 5fps won't make much difference.
....

I disagree with this part.
1) F5.6 isn't too small. Esp not in the sun. f5.6 1/2000 isn't that hard to get under our sun.
edit: if it's a night race, it should be lit very brightly, under floodlights. Main money spinner are the TV broadcasts, and let me quote F1 circuit designer Hermann Tilke:
“You also need a certain amount of brightness to allow TV cameras to show the cars property – not as blurry streaks!"
If they're going to take care of TV cameras, what say you of dSLR which has superior sensitivity to light?

2) Focus being slow, that entirely depends on what you're trying to take isn't it, and how far away it is ya?
If we're talking about speeding cars approaching from about 20m away.. i think you'll probably need a 1 series camera to be able to drive the USM lenses fast/accurate enough, no?