1/1000s shutter speed a limitation?


artspraken

New Member
My film Ms the shutter speed is 1/1000s. As a film newbie, I am gradually starting to understand some boundaries.

With Tri-X 400, I find the 1/1000s a hindrance on how wide my aperture can go. Some lenses are optimal at F4 or F5.6, but I cannot shoot at such apertures because the daylight too bright. Sometimes I must go F16 to find the exposure sweet spot. Sometimes, I want to shoot F1.4 to achieve optimal bokeh, but hor....because the daylight is too bright , I end up with 'washout effect'. Abit dulan I spend so much money on big aperture lens but cannot use big aperture lor.

I never tried 'pulling' Tri-X before during development. So far I always shoot at ISO 400 coz my developer Diafine is 'auto' compensating developer.

Any shifu got tips anot re: how you handle the 1/1000s and shoot max aperture? The only cure is to use lower ISO film izzit hah? (sibeh sianz I bought a truckload of Tri-X 400 thinking that it can shoot under any conditions wan).

I must say that the basic relationship of ISO, shutter speed and aperture take on much greater meaning when you use analogue camera.

p.s. by contrast, my M9 the shutter speed can go to 1/4000s. I now understand how very pampered I was by the M9. M9 can anyhow whack the exposure is also decent wan.
 

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My film Ms the shutter speed is 1/1000s. As a film newbie, I am gradually starting to understand some boundaries.

With Tri-X 400, I find the 1/1000s a hindrance on how wide my aperture can go. Some lenses are optimal at F4 or F5.6, but I cannot shoot at such apertures because the daylight too bright. Sometimes I must go F16 to find the exposure sweet spot. Sometimes, I want to shoot F1.4 to achieve optimal bokeh, but hor....because the daylight is too bright , I end up with 'washout effect'. Abit dulan I spend so much money on big aperture lens but cannot use big aperture lor.

I never tried 'pulling' Tri-X before during development. So far I always shoot at ISO 400 coz my developer Diafine is 'auto' compensating developer.

Any shifu got tips anot re: how you handle the 1/1000s and shoot max aperture? The only cure is to use lower ISO film izzit hah? (sibeh sianz I bought a truckload of Tri-X 400 thinking that it can shoot under any conditions wan).

I must say that the basic relationship of ISO, shutter speed and aperture take on much greater meaning when you use analogue camera.

p.s. by contrast, my M9 the shutter speed can go to 1/4000s. I now understand how very pampered I was by the M9. M9 can anyhow whack the exposure is also decent wan.

Buy an ND filter?
 

But gotta keep in mind the ND filter used when metering though....

Just set the ISO to be slower by a stop. Set it to 200 if you're shooting 400 with a ND2 filter
 

lens area opening, as fraction of the complete lens Filter Optical Density f-Stop Reduction % transmittance
ND2 1/2 0.3 1 50%
ND4 1/4 0.6 2 25%
ND8 1/8 0.9 3 12.5%
ND16 1/16 1.2 4 6.25%
ND32 1/32 1.5 5 3.125%
ND64 1/64 1.8 6 1.563%
ND128 1/128 2.1 7 0.781%
ND256 1/256 2.4 8 0.391%
ND512 1/512 2.7 9 0.195%
ND1024 1/1024 3.0 10 0.098%
 

Bro, you have enough M bodies to load film at different ASA's, why you worry :)
 

A few options actually, ND filter already said...or can try the Zeiss Ikon (1/2000) or Hexar RF (1/4000 I think?)
You don't need to spurge your money on the noct or the lux or what have you, a color skopar is actually very good for street - light, compact and delivers great! :)

On that note, i read the skopar pancake 35mm f2,5 is modeled after the JAPANESE CRON so it's definitely no slacker!
 

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shoot lower speed film? i find ilford panf 50 pretty nice... although shoot street in wide aperture is so difficult.
 

a question on the diafine..im about to use it as well...if you push to 1600...the diafine can compensate it as well rite?
 

pikapig said:
a question on the diafine..im about to use it as well...if you push to 1600...the diafine can compensate it as well rite?

ISO 1600 results in quite thin negatives. I think rating it ISO 1000 is a better bet.
 

Shahlan said:
But gotta keep in mind the ND filter used when metering though....

It depends on the camera you use if you use the cameras with TTL (M5 and above), there is no need to compensate. Only external meters need to do that.
 

1. ya I thinking of selling some M stuff, and move to play LTM.

2. ya diafine can go up to 1600, but the look is not the same as 400. you try will see. I also try 1200 before.
 

LTM cheaper and got more variety than M mount mah.
 

LTM cheaper and got more variety than M mount mah.

cheaper *generally* yes but you can use both m + ltm lenses on m bodies whereas only ltm lenses on ltm bodies so in fact less variety, no? :think:

I'm not saying you shouldn't, but just doesn't quite relate to the topic of 1/1000s and moving from M to LTM body...
 

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