Recent content by Peculiar

Here's some info on the macro close-up from the hoya catalog: Lens of 2 element, 2 group construction.. Has got a diopter rating of +10.. When fitted to a 50mm Std lens, mag of 1:2 is achieved :)

Yup.. you are quite true.. Basically the polarising filter blocks of light rays that are polarised to a certain angle.. So buy cutting of polarised rays from reflections, colours appear darker... :)

The rotating ring is used to control the degree of polarising you want for your pictures.. Not only you can use the filter to remove reflection on water, you can also use it to deepen the blue of the sky, bring out the clouds, and enrich the colours of your pictures. Grass will appear more...

I'm intending to get the Hasselbald FlexBody for some serious studio work, but i'm also quite interested in getting that 105 lens, just to turn the 35mm SLR into something similar to technical cameras... Or should i say for the sake of collecting it haha:D

The special thing about this bellow nikkor 105 is that it is able to focus up to infinity which enlarger lens can't... This lens has got the similar optical formula of a traditional large format technical camera lens With this lens attached to the nikon PB-4 bellow, it can transform the 35mm...

Anyone have any idea where i can find the Bellows Nikkor 105 f/4 It's a unique lens designed specially for the Nikon PB-4 Bellow It only have the aperture ring, and no focusing ring, looks just like an enlarger lens..

It refers to the background blur effect created by a short DOF using wide open apertures..

Will a 2nd Nikon FM10 and 2nd manual 50 f/1.2, 50 f/1.4 or 50 f/1.8 do? Total at around S$500-900

There's one at lucky chinatown 2nd flr.. selling mostly antique stuff One more somewhere near NAFA building... can't really say where, only know how to get there.. :)

In my opinion... a dark or out of focus background would be good...

For me, i'll use my spot meter, spot a few different parts of the sky, then the Opera house roof... Not the highlight, not the shadows, but some where in between... The base illuminated by the red lights can be spotted also to give a rough guide of how they will show up on film.. All these...

If you have omni-bounce, u can use it as well... it's quite a good accessory to have around :)

I would suggest using lens range from 24mm to 85mm with aperture of 5.6 or 8... to capture some background ambient. Try not to use too big an aperture as DOF will not be sufficient. As for flash, just set it to TTL, there's not enough time to go into the depths of flash control now.. Forgot...

Whether the 2 mirrors at 90 deg, i'm not quite sure, but the prism in my F3 is around 90 deg... This i think may differ between different cameras. As for the invisible intersection line, i think the use of oversized prisms helps in concealing them... A picture? I'm afraid i can't post it...

Actually your image is partially wrong.. the top of the prism is actually pointed, such that the first reflecting surface is like a roof shape, giving is 2 reflecting surfaces.. This is where the L/R inversion correction takes place, before it hits the next reflecting surface to make the image...