Recent content by jasonpgc

Did I mention small prints? I only print my stuff at 300 dpi to A4 size. If that is considered small to you. One of the reason why some people still goes for f2.8 or expensive zoom lens is because the distortion correction at each focal length and color contrast is better on the higher end...

I don't take test shots. Yes I take blue skys. Whether a lens is sharp or not is not important to me. I use f8 above and tripod for almost all my shots. You can't really tell any difference on a print. 99% of my shots are landscape in daylight or early evening. 1% of the time using for...

No doubt the kit lens is very sharp. I compare it with my 28mm prime lens on a 300dpi A4 print. Cannot really tell the difference in quality. But the aperture of the kit lens get stuck during one of the national day parade. Send back to service, and it get stuck again during my...

Think you can buy whatever that suits your need and price. In this range, the difference in lens quality is not easily visible. What we can compare is the built of the lens body and feature. If you need the extra stop, IS and range than it seems the17-55 is a good consideration. If...

I think Manual is much more dangerous for beginner drivers. Auto cars will let you concentrate all your attention on the road. Just like most of us always begin photography with auto camera and negatives. Sucess rate is almost 100% per roll. Manual is like a beginner handling a FM2 and...

I always prefer MS color to Alan Photo or Cathay. I think the sales person are warmer and they usually give a good price. I think most buyers would call up these three shop to check at least, the price of the lens. Cathay is most consistent in their pricing. It may not be the best but the...

Yes, If your subject does not move around or the lighting condition is static, and your exposure setting is correct. No, If your subject moves around, you get three different pictures with different exposures. No, If the lighting changes, you get a picture with three unpredictable...

This lens have a good distance scale. In low light, focusing can be quite bad at the short end. The distance scale will land at a random postion if it fails. However, focusing at the long end is very good at low light. If you've achieve focus at the long end, the distance indicator does...

This might be the reason. Can verify by switching to Manual focus and see if the problem persist.

The 300D is cheap but not as good as you might thought it would be. The quality of the picture is great, even at is 1600. But I think there is a serious problem with the QC standard. My 300D suffered from err99 after 6mths. I don't think I have shoot more than 5000 shots. Canon service...

If this problem only happen recently, the alignment problem may be due to the mirror did not fully return to the resting postion after a exposure. You can remove the len and do a bulb exposure. After the mirror flip up, Check if anything is trapped along the edges where the mirror is suppose to...

In fact, I practice the same as you do. I don't use any onmi bouce now. If I ever need a fill, I would use direct flash at either -1 or -2, or a just a simple white cardboard reflector. 99.9% of my pictures are taken in exisiting light w/o any flash :p

The Omni Bounce serves best as my flash protective cap :p To be serious, the omni bounce converts your direct flash into a bare bulb flash. This means that instead of having 100% of your flash light projected on your subject, you will now have more than 75% of your light going in all other...

My view is we did not need this lens to be around. Canon DSLR users like me, would appreciate if they come out with a 18-50mm F2.8 whether is for 35mm or digital doesn't matters. 1.6 X would give use something like 28-80mm angle of view. I would rather buy a sigma 24-70 f2.8 if I need this...

I use both film and digital SLRs. I think both have their own unique advantages. I would be very glad if both are sticking around for the next 100 years :p