yashica gsn/gt


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hi everyone,

i recently bought a yashica gt electro from another clubsnap member, and honestly im quite happy with it.
however, i find that the meter is not working properly. the underexposed arrow is always on even the lens is open at its widest and under bright light condition (morning , to be specific).

furthermore, i've read and watched videos about the "pad of death" and i came across one which says that the screwed up pad could be the source of problem.

in conclusion, i just wanna know if any of you YASHICA GSN/GT ELECTRO users have across the same problem and how you guys repaired it. or is there a specific place where i could get the cam serviced properly?

help/advice would be much appreciated.

much respect
RICHARD
 

hi richard, get in contact with shuttergal (look in the member's list). They have repaired a lot of PODs for the yashicas and I am sure that they will be happy to take a look at yours. They are extremely nice and prices are very reasonable. Drop them a PM.

hope it helps,

cheers
dw
 

i've contacted shuttergal but the repair cost is way larger than what i expected it to be.

is there anyone/anyplace that you guys would recommend? i really really like the camera.
 

Hi Des, thanks for the recommendation. Appreciate it :)

Just to clarify, at this moment there is no possible way to service and CLA the Yashica Electro 35 for fellow clubsnappers. Currently filled to the brink with so many sets waiting for their turns to be revived. Regardless of the condition internally or externally, every Yashica Electro 35 G, GS, GSN, GT, GTN, GL, CC, MC and GX we have will be disassembled and have their pads(the technically correct term is "switch coupling pad") changed.

Each piece that goes under the surgical knife does not come out perfect or fine as it is. Usually, 2 or more Electro 35 sets are needed for their parts in order to make a good one. Some shutters came DOA(Dead on Arrival) and have to be totally removed and another shutter from a organ donor will be installed. Its simply too time consuming to do fault finding with the maze of small cables and boards.

There are also sets that came with the 2nd group lens assembly plastic holder being drilled with 2 holes and some not even screwed on evenly. Apparently these are amateurish efforts who do not have the proper tools and knowhow to disassemble the second group. Many times, the small ball bearing also went missing.

Another typical issue is the old mercury battery being left in the battery compartment for years . When you shine some light into the battery compartment, you thought that every thing is good and clean with no corrosion. Before you come to the conclusion, take a closer look at the film chamber and the rear elements group. There will be tell tale signs that a mercury battery has leaked and besides the liquid, small amount of the fumes/gas has affected the inner parts. Just that the external battery compartment has been cleaned and you won't be able to see the results of the leak.

Out of the 10 sets we have released so far, the picture below shows how many rear lens group, front lens group and complete front lens assembly were found to be damaged and replaced from other good sets, and we are just talking about pertaining to the optics. The viewfinder and rangefinder were also exchanged if they are deemed irrepairable or severely stained.

P1100065.jpg


Many had bought the Yashica Electro 35 G, GS, GSN, GT and GTN at $120 and above to $200. It would be shocking and detrimental to their mental heath if they find out from the repair shops they have to spend another $130 or $150 - $160 to service the set, and that is exactly how Gripmaster reacted when he realized that.

As for trade in, its definitely a good thing and gratefully welcomed because we do need a lot of the Yashica Electro 35 for parts. But to take your GSN and trade for a new re-conditioned set.... its quite unlikely because as said earlier, many of you had bought the set typically for $120 and more. One lady and one gentleman pm'ed us and asked whether they could trade in their mint GSN and GS for our re-conditioned set and top up $50 - $70. Not sure how to reply but it does not matter the set comes with a box or unused, or a dent or broken lens(we got one of that actually), they will be disassembled and CLA'd. So the trade in could only be applied for other items but not for the re-conditioned Yashica Electro 35.

Hope the above info helps. Thanks.
 

very informative:) i just hope you'll be able to service mine before i make my trip to the philippines this coming december.

any idea when you'll be done with the current sets?
 

Keep your fingers crossed for they may be ready in the week after next. Besides the Yashica Electro 35, think may want to introduce other CLA'd rangefinders like the Canonet, Ricoh and Minolta. They are great rangefinders too, and deserved a revival to exhibit their abilities.
 

cool, might be just in time after my exams have ended.
 

i have another problem again. im buying film tmrw for the gt and i cant seem to pull up the film rewind crank/back cover release knob. any idea why? or maybe im doing something wrong.
 

There should be no obstruction when pulling the rewind crank up. Not sure what you mean but did it manage to raise up all the way? Or it remains tight sitting put on the top cover? Or you manage to pull it up but door refuses to swing open? Try wriggling it a little here and there and at the same time pulling it up. Last but not least, did you manage to pull it up in the first place when you first bought it?
 

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I got a Yashica Electro GS 35 at home as well.

Pretty much great condition except it has a sticky shutter & the B mode doesnt really work.
 

There should be no obstruction when pulling the rewind crank up. Not sure what you mean but did it manage to raise up all the way? Or it remains tight sitting put on the top cover? Or you manage to pull it up but door refuses to swing open? Try wriggling it a little here and there and at the same time pulling it up. Last but not least, did you manage to pull it up in the first place when you first bought it?

it's just really stuck there and i have no idea why. nonetheless, im able to open the back door by pulling the lock at the bottom. im gathering some money now to get it repaired. headache;)
 

To Royale with Cheese: For the conventional cameras, the sticky shutter is a straight outright obvious problem to detect, at least in most cases. For the Yashica Electro 35, when you shoot at auto ot flash but it behaves like B mode, 50% is the issue of the POD and 50% is a problem with the shutter circuitry. Believe with your experience, battery power should not be the issue.

To gripmaster: Since the metering already konked out, think u may as well save the money for a roll of film to be wasted.
 

The below is copied and pasted here from previous sale of the Yashica Electro 35 GSN. It may help to clarify certain questions you have on your problem.

When you wind the film lever to move to the next exposure, there must be a "clunk" when advancing the film. Your thumb will also feel a very slight reaction to the clunk. Congrats! The clunk signals that the "pad of death" is there but it does not necessary means that its good to go. Pictures provided will explain why. BTW, the indicator light should disappear BEFORE the shutter releases if everything is working correctly, irregardless of the mode flash, auto and bulb used. I would suggest you also check that the sliding contacts are clean, making correct contact with the tracks and moving correctly. But that would mean youy have to open up the lens front and the shutter unit.

No clunk and silent do not mean you have a camera as smooth and refined like a Leica ;) In the Yashica Electro 35 context, you have a worn out pad that needs to be replaced.

What is the implication when the pad is there or not there? Is it important at all?

The POD is aligned with the brush rod. When the shutter release button is pressed down, the POD will push down the brush rod, creating a rotational movement up and down on the contacts and activating the led exposure lights in sequence.

At the end of each movement, when the shutter is tripped, the brush rod is trappped by a latching rod and stays in the lower part and deactivates the electronic controls. When you wind the film, the brush rod is released and there will be a spring to push it back up, where it establishes contact with the POD again, thus creating the "clunk" that is music to the ears of every Yashica G series owners!

If the POD is deteriorated or not there at all, the metering system will not work properly for sure and in some cases the spacing is thrown off! Simply because the brush rod did not go deep enough to lock down. Hence no "clunk" as the brush rod moves back up along with the shutter release arm.

You have just gone through a detailed explanation of what this much dreaded Pad of Death is all about. In extreme cases when the pad area has only bare metal, the camera is as good as DOA (Dead on Arrival).

Below are some pictures when everything is taken apart. Sometimes you will still feel and hear a clunk(especially if the camera is minty and you are reasoning with yourself how bad could it be?) when the pad has only a remaining 10% to 20% lifespan left, but then again, its the musical chair game you are playing. Incidentally, the original pad should be orange in colour. In the pictures, you will see its all gooey and hardened.

Extreme apologies in advance for this long winded explanation.

Hope the above info helps.

POD1.jpg

POD2.jpg

POD3.jpg

POD4.jpg
 

sorry for the very late reply:sweat:.

alright , it seems like all the problems root to the POD.

few days ago, i was playing with the cam(yashica gt) again and i noticed that shutter wont open. could it be because of the POD?

oh yeah , shuttergal, will you be able to service my cam maybe end of this month?:)
 

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