Where should I meter?

[Johnston]

Just came back from India. Pretty disappointed with most of my shots. Of cos, mainly are touristic shots. Nothing I can 'wow' about. The surrounding lightings are just too challenging for me! Till the fact that I just dont know where to meter. Most of my shots turned our crappy. :cry: Most of my shots I took are -0.5EV cos I felt that the sunlight was just too strong. And the result........sad. Any bro can advise me what I should have done so that I can improve.

 

[jusri]

Hi bro, r u using film camera? :dunno:

from my understanding, if you want to get the exposure rite in such a situation, it should be compensate more light in to get the details of the temple/building.

perhaps, u can use framing instead... :think:

btw, i am still learning too...

 

[Johnston]

using KM7D. but if i compensate for more light in, wont the sky be wash-out? :think:

 

[jusri]

I believe the subject is back-lit or side-lit. :think:

this is wht mentioned in abook i read if the subject is back-lit/side-lit...

""Light Direction" corrections

This correction does not require you to move about from your camera position.

The corrections range from no increase for front light, to a 1/2 stop increase in exposure for side light, usually 1 to 2 stops increase for back light (1 1/2 stops is a popular choice to correct underexposure in back light) and up to 1 stop increase in revealing light.

All these corrections involves increasing exposure, letting in more light. This is accomplished by a slower shutter speed or by opening a larger aperture (ie a smaller f-number). Please also remember that the f-stop will affect depth-of-field and shutter speed affects motion or movement. Corrections can also be done by using the exposure composition dial.

Side light - Light coming from the side of the subject. You amy want to increase the exposure by +1/2 stops in order to slightly increase the shadow detail

Back light - Light coming from behind the subject. Open up 1 to 2 stops depending on your needs. Compensating 1 1/2 to 2 stops may make the backgound washed out, overly bright. Perhaps 1 stop should do the job...entirely up to you...you may want the overly bright background like an aura coming out from the person...for example.."

please do correct me if i am wrong...

 

[Johnston]

Thanx bro jusri. Most of my shots involved of old rock temples that reflect the sunlight. so i -0.5EV inorder not having them turn out too wash-out. seems like my method is wrong then. sianz. :cry:

 

[zcf]

Bro, actually, what do you want to achieve in these shots? You mean the 2 shots you show are slightly underexpose?

Or you want the sky still blue, but the temple is well expose?

 

[Johnston]

Or you want the sky still blue, but the temple is well expose?

Yup, thats what i want. any advise? dont tell me to use filter :bsmilie:

 

[zcf]

Yup, thats what i want. any advise? dont tell me to use filter :bsmilie:

it's either Circular polarizer, Gradual ND filter, RAW conversion, HDR or PS :sweat:

Or may be Alpha 100, which has the Dynamic Range Optimization :think: .

Metering can't help with those cases. But you did the right thing on -0.5EV to preserve the sky, which give you leeway to PS the photos, overexpose shots are hard to recover the details.

 

[Rashkae]

Yup, thats what i want. any advise? dont tell me to use filter :bsmilie:

You might need to use a HDR technique.

 

[Johnston]

OIC. Thanx bro zcf. thats the case, seems like i need to invest in a few sizes of ND and CPL liao.:sweat:

 

[Rashkae]

In these shots though, you can still do some post-processing. It'll be time-consuming though.

 

[Johnston]

You might need to use a HDR technique.

this is something i know nuts about. Dont even know what HDR stands for. :embrass:
care to enlighten me?

 

[zcf]

OIC. Thanx bro zcf. thats the case, seems like i need to invest in a few sizes of ND and CPL liao.:sweat:

Have to take note that ND filter is different from Gradual ND filter. And they may not work well with structure protude in the sky area, as it will darken the structure also.

CPL probably work better in these case, but CPL however work well around more area perpendicular to the sun shining direction, but not direct or oppose to the sun.

 

[zcf]

this is something i know nuts about. Dont even know what HDR stands for. :embrass:
care to enlighten me?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging
the shots linked to this post mostly are done by HDR.
Spectacular. Excellent Shots!

But I don't quite like it mainly because it need to use a stable platform/tripod and not moving subject.

 

[Rashkae]

this is something i know nuts about. Dont even know what HDR stands for. :embrass:
care to enlighten me?

High dynamic range. This will be a good place to start:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/hdr.shtml

 

[jusri]

can i ask u guys one question from a film user?

since u r using DSLR, wouldnt u be able to view ur shots and make necesary adjustment like compensating or adjusting aperture or WB or wht have you, on the spot? :think:

 

[Rashkae]

can i ask u guys one question from a film user?

since u r using DSLR, wouldnt u be able to view ur shots and make necesary adjustment like compensating or adjusting aperture or WB or wht have you, on the spot? :think:

In many cases, yes. But you also need to understand the limitations of squinting at a small LCD screen with the sun blasting into your eyes. It may look good on the LCD screen, but once you see your pictures in a "proper" screen, without the sun playing havoc with your eyes (and dimming the screen) then you'll know what it really looks like.

 

[zcf]

can i ask u guys one question from a film user?

since u r using DSLR, wouldnt u be able to view ur shots and make necesary adjustment like compensating or adjusting aperture or WB or wht have you, on the spot? :think:

yes, but the LCD view is not 100% correct, so usually will view the histogram for exposure. And shoot RAW for correction of W/B in difficult/confusing lighting situation.

In Johnston case, he actually want more dynamic range to be shown (dark object brighter, while maintain bright blue sky darker), which can't be achieve by metering alone.

 

[jusri]

In many cases, yes. But you also need to understand the limitations of squinting at a small LCD screen with the sun blasting into your eyes. It may look good on the LCD screen, but once you see your pictures in a "proper" screen, without the sun playing havoc with your eyes (and dimming the screen) then you'll know what it really looks like.

thanks for the xplanation..

 

[zcf]

In many cases, yes. But you also need to understand the limitations of squinting at a small LCD screen with the sun blasting into your eyes. It may look good on the LCD screen, but once you see your pictures in a "proper" screen, without the sun playing havoc with your eyes (and dimming the screen) then you'll know what it really looks like.

especially wearing trasition lens or sunglass will give you false impression of right on exposure, while actually it's overexpose (personal experience) :sweat: