Waiting for the perfect wave
Catching a good one
A word of explanation:
This is NOT Hawaii. This is the East Coast Beach. Obviously, because of the Indonesian islands, we do not have waves large enough to surf. But that does not stop these Malay boys from making their own surfboards out of plywood sheets, and "pretend-surfing" on the small little waves that come in. They do not, of course, paddle out to sea and surf their way in. Rather, they stand at the beach watching for a slightly bigger wave than normal, then run alongside the beach as fast as they can. At the last minute, they throw the surfboard onto the water just as the wave breaks, and for a blissful second and a half, actually coast along on the water from the sheer momentum. Quite fun, actually, and certainly good exercise. There's a whole subculture evolving around this, with surfer chicks lounging around and a whole bunch of other stuff, which I might explore in greater detail in future.
Catching a good one
A word of explanation:
This is NOT Hawaii. This is the East Coast Beach. Obviously, because of the Indonesian islands, we do not have waves large enough to surf. But that does not stop these Malay boys from making their own surfboards out of plywood sheets, and "pretend-surfing" on the small little waves that come in. They do not, of course, paddle out to sea and surf their way in. Rather, they stand at the beach watching for a slightly bigger wave than normal, then run alongside the beach as fast as they can. At the last minute, they throw the surfboard onto the water just as the wave breaks, and for a blissful second and a half, actually coast along on the water from the sheer momentum. Quite fun, actually, and certainly good exercise. There's a whole subculture evolving around this, with surfer chicks lounging around and a whole bunch of other stuff, which I might explore in greater detail in future.
