Sunny 16 rule on a yashica A

[joshielim]

hi am about to take my yashica A out for some shots. Did a few in bnw before but now deciding to go with slides. Since slides wouldnt be as forgiving as b&w in exposure, i was just wondering would it be alright to use the sunny 16 rule as a quick guide on the amount of exposure on yashica A tlr? anione has experience pls feel free to post and guide me along thankzz

 

[dankwan]

hi am about to take my yashica A out for some shots. Did a few in bnw before but now deciding to go with slides. Since slides wouldnt be as forgiving as b&w in exposure, i was just wondering would it be alright to use the sunny 16 rule as a quick guide on the amount of exposure on yashica A tlr? anione has experience pls feel free to post and guide me along thankzz

Hi joshielim, not a good idea, tried that once and everything came out, believe it or not, under. Didn't try that again. Afraid I don't have shots to share, sorry....

 

[sim4nee]

Hi joshielim, not a good idea, tried that once and everything came out, believe it or not, under. Didn't try that again. Afraid I don't have shots to share, sorry....

Sunny f16 was actually refer to sunny days in France don't know how many donkey years ago so not so advisable, Singapore sunny never equal to Europe sunny, but if you plan to learn better exposure estimation and willing to burn some film I'll say why not.

 

[Splutter]

Wouldn't hurt to underexpose your slides a little to be safe. The colours come out more saturated anyway. At this day and age, why not bring along a small digicam and follow the camera settings?

 

[joshielim]

Hi joshielim, not a good idea, tried that once and everything came out, believe it or not, under. Didn't try that again. Afraid I don't have shots to share, sorry....

wah under expose? Am using f5.6 and 1/50 on a sunny day for b&w and turn out fine. Guess thats the reason y it was fine. Since it like many stop above the sunny 16 rule

 

[dankwan]

Wouldn't hurt to underexpose your slides a little to be safe. The colours come out more saturated anyway. At this day and age, why not bring along a small digicam and follow the camera settings?

Makes sense, the digicam...so caught up in gear lust that using the digicam is a lovely & simple solution...

 

[joshielim]

so by using the digital cam i should just set the iso level to that of the flim am i right to say that?

 

[zk-diq]

Hi joshielim, not a good idea, tried that once and everything came out, believe it or not, under. Didn't try that again. Afraid I don't have shots to share, sorry....

B/W or colour neg With film speed at ASA100, Shutter 125 and f16 in sunny day (under the sun and object is facing the sun) usually you will have correct exposure. If your object is under shadow, (outdoor) f5.6 should be ok.

However, if your shutter speed is out, aperture may also not correctly calibrated, then you will not have accurate exposure. (Note: Presume processing is all in order, I have encounter 1 stop error before)

Use a target chart and exp. meter to check your camera is within tolerance +-0.3 stop.

Colour slide is better to have a meter measure.
you have a 18% gray, step 4 for metering
white, with min detail
shadow with min detail

This also can bring you to understand the zone system. You may achieve very rich tone with your print.

 

[Dslrman]

hi am about to take my yashica A out for some shots. Did a few in bnw before but now deciding to go with slides. Since slides wouldnt be as forgiving as b&w in exposure, i was just wondering would it be alright to use the sunny 16 rule as a quick guide on the amount of exposure on yashica A tlr? anione has experience pls feel free to post and guide me along thankzz

It is possible! All my flim shots are Sunny 16 rule, but I made some modifications. I noticed Singapore sunlights are more brighter, so I may sometimes use Sunny "22" rule. Do check out my previous Flickr posts. I have self-developed and cross-processed with slide film using Sunny 16 rule with little problems at all. MF shots are ok too. But do expect some throwaway shots, coz we are not build for light metering function after all.

 

[Dslrman]

Just wanna add. Metering f16 (or f22) is easy, but getting the correct exposure when the lighting condition falls, needs experience (or rather, trial and error with lots of wasted films canister before you can get it right).

Below is my personal note to share:

ISO speed correspond to the shutter speed
-ie. ISO 200 = 1/200 shutter speed.
(Using 1/250 if that is the closest shutter speed in the camera)

sunny: f/22
-Full Sun.
-Reflective glare from objects. Burning hot temperature.
-Shadow: Dark with sharp edges.

Sunny: f/16
-Full Sun.
-Bright reflected light from objects.
-Shadow: Dark with strong edges.

Slightly overcast: f/11
-Half sun.
-Visible refected light from objects.
-Shadow: Dark with soft edges.

Overcast: f/8
-Barely visible reflected light from objects.
-Open shade.
-Shadow: Barely visible.

Heavy overcast: f/5.6
-No reflected light from objects.
-Darker shade.
-Shadow: No shadow.

Sunset (darkest shade) - f/4
-No reflected light from objects.
-Darkest shade.
-Shadow: No shadow.

Backlighting
-Add 1 stop, ie. f/16 becomes f/11)

NB:
-Reflected light from object = the visible "highlights" noticed from an object.

-Overcast = cloudy (in relations to the cloudy blocking the sun)

-Combining overcast intensity and shadow edge visibility for more accurate judgement:
Overcast intensity + Shadow edge = More accurate judgement.


Hope these helps


PS: Currently I am trying to experiment on how I could manually meter night lighting condition (not using moonlight, btw) with only slight success. I coined it the "Nighty 2.8 Rule" Will share if I could get it right.

 

[zk-diq]

Just wanna add. Metering f16 (or f22) is easy, but getting the correct exposure when the lighting condition falls, needs experience (or rather, trial and error with lots of wasted films canister before you can get it right).

Below is my personal note to share:

ISO speed correspond to the shutter speed
-ie. ISO 200 = 1/200 shutter speed.
(Using 1/250 if that is the closest shutter speed in the camera)

sunny: f/22
-Full Sun.
-Reflective glare from objects. Burning hot temperature.
-Shadow: Dark with sharp edges.

Sunny: f/16
-Full Sun.
-Bright reflected light from objects.
-Shadow: Dark with strong edges.

Slightly overcast: f/11
-Half sun.
-Visible refected light from objects.
-Shadow: Dark with soft edges.

Overcast: f/8
-Barely visible reflected light from objects.
-Open shade.
-Shadow: Barely visible.

Heavy overcast: f/5.6
-No reflected light from objects.
-Darker shade.
-Shadow: No shadow.

Sunset (darkest shade) - f/4
-No reflected light from objects.
-Darkest shade.
-Shadow: No shadow.

Backlighting
-Add 1 stop, ie. f/16 becomes f/11)

NB:
-Reflected light from object = the visible "highlights" noticed from an object.

-Overcast = cloudy (in relations to the cloudy blocking the sun)

-Combining overcast intensity and shadow edge visibility for more accurate judgement:
Overcast intensity + Shadow edge = More accurate judgement.


Hope these helps


PS: Currently I am trying to experiment on how I could manually meter night lighting condition (not using moonlight, btw) with only slight success. I coined it the "Nighty 2.8 Rule" Will share if I could get it right.

This sure will help

 

[pcom21]

I'm not a very good shooter, but here are a few examples with my Yashica Mat LM. My practice shots, roughly following Sunny 16, except for the night shots. Hope they help.

F16, 1/250, Fuji Neopan Acros 400.

F16, 1/60, Ilford Pan 50

F8, 8 secs, Fuji Provia 100F

F5.6, 1/30, Fuji Neopan Acros 400, overcast.

I believe that you will still need to experiment on your own to achieve the results you want. I ran quite a few rolls of film through the camera before I started to realise how to gauge and control the exposures. Do visit the Yashica TLR thread located in the Medium Format Section.