RF and filter choice

[Nature88]

Hi all. I am new to RF world and I am still deciding whether to invest in one interchangeable lens RF to learn more about film photography. But there are some things that bug me. Hope those veteran out there are able to guide me.

Regarding RF, if I were to get one, I will use it to take scenery more than street and event shot. But if one were to use polarizer for RF, how do the user gauge which angle to adjust the polarizer to minimize the reflection with maximum efficiency due to the fact the the viewfinder is not covered by the polarizer to see the effect. I have read from forum and online they says best is hold the filter and use eyes to observe, then remember the filter position and screw it on to take the pic. Are there any more efficient way?

Personally I wish to learn bout more film photography but its sad to say that I have the mindset to send the film to shop to develop so as not to screw up the "hardwork". I would like to ask if there are any places that sells DIY film development kit, and also where to get the chemicals. I did try to search online and sometimes their method differs by a little. Is there a universal standard to DIY develop film?

Hope those with experience in handling RF are able to advice and guide me.

Thanks for viewing.

P.S: Actually I have a Canonet QL. But shot only 3 rolls of films and all are developed by shop. :embrass:

 

[chiif]

I would suggest u continue using the canonet and shoot
more rolls of film first. Those questions that you ask will be clearer as you go along the way...

Film developing is like cooking. There is no one fix way to cook a steak. The end result is what you are after. For getting developing kit, go down to ruby and check with the friendly folks over there. All stuff can be bought under one roof.

Hope that helps.

 

[Nature88]

chiif:

Thanks for the advice. Maybe will need to send my Canonet for VF recalibration as it is having parallax error if Im going to continue using it. Also need to get a meter if I want to learn full manual since QL doesnt have fill manual metering.

Regarding the polarizer, you mean try and error till fully understand how the polarizer filter work on RF? Sounds costly tho. :embrass: Suppose maybe photography as a hobby is expensive.

Nevertheless, thanks for the input and your time.

P.S: Will go down to ruby when have time to shop shop.

 

[raytoei]

Hi,

Yes. I echo Chiif's comments that you should shoot more rolls before venturing out into film development.

BUT having said that, developing film has never been easier.

You can buy a ready to go kit from here

or you can do it the more traditional way and head down to ruby photo to buy the equipment, this is what i bought yesterday evening:

* paterson tank
* paterson flask
* thermometer
* clips
* fixer
* hc 110 developer
* 1 roll of HP5

came to about 150 sgd, the uncle there spent about 20 mins going through with my q&a.

I havent' tried this yet but am frustrated waiting for 1 week for non-c41 photos to be developed. So I am going to start experimenting. The only other thing missing is a decent scanner to scan the negatives in.

hope this helps.


raytoei

 

[ianglean]

You can try this for your filter issue.

http://www.photoequip.net/_forms/filterview.htm

 

[Daikoku]

Hi all. I am new to RF world and I am still deciding whether to invest in one interchangeable lens RF to learn more about film photography. But there are some things that bug me. Hope those veteran out there are able to guide me.

Regarding RF, if I were to get one, I will use it to take scenery more than street and event shot. But if one were to use polarizer for RF, how do the user gauge which angle to adjust the polarizer to minimize the reflection with maximum efficiency due to the fact the the viewfinder is not covered by the polarizer to see the effect. I have read from forum and online they says best is hold the filter and use eyes to observe, then remember the filter position and screw it on to take the pic. Are there any more efficient way?

Personally I wish to learn bout more film photography but its sad to say that I have the mindset to send the film to shop to develop so as not to screw up the "hardwork". I would like to ask if there are any places that sells DIY film development kit, and also where to get the chemicals. I did try to search online and sometimes their method differs by a little. Is there a universal standard to DIY develop film?

Hope those with experience in handling RF are able to advice and guide me.

Thanks for viewing.

P.S: Actually I have a Canonet QL. But shot only 3 rolls of films and all are developed by shop. :embrass:

bro canonet case still with me..:embrass:

 

[benny]

Using circular polarizer with rangefinder camera...


ISO 400, 1/2000 sec, f/1.1 on AE mode, +1 stop exposure compensation.
Voigtlander Nokton 50mm f/1.1 on Epson R-D1.

As the polarizing effect is over an axis of 180 degrees, just filp the polarizer over the viewfinder, adjust till you like the effect, flip the polarizer back and snap.

Cheers,

 

[Nature88]

raytoei:

Thanks for the info. Suppose It is really expensive to DIY develop film esp without much skills and guidance. Suppose continue to shoot in the Canonet and gain more experience before moving on to film development.

ianglean:

Thanks for the links. Can consider bout that when have bigger budget allowance. Meantime maybe really try and error if really have the time and resource

Daikoku:

No worries. Suppose you are busy working. When I am free during my holidays I go take from you. I thought you have forgotten though. Actually if you didnt mentioned it, I also forgotten about the case. :embrass: Meantime I have a Lowepro lens pouch that the Canonet can fit in to bring it around.

benny:

Where did you get that polarizer holder? Cool kit. But I doubt its small enough for a Voigtlander or Canonet. :sweatsm:

 

[Yatlapball]

well... most of the polarisers come with a marking on the ring that is supposed to point to where the lateral light source is coming from. just turn it till so.

 

[nstclicks]

$150 seems a bit expensive. you should be able to bootstrap with

Developing tank ~$25
Dark bag ~ $25

chemicals - HC110 $20
fixer $20

under $100 and all will last you long time, including the chemicals. You can buy funnels, measuring jugs etc. at any hardware store for a few dollars or less. Just go with the room temperature development method to avoid having to mess with ice, thermometers and what not. http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45612

For those who are just starting out and not sure whether they will maintain their interest, it's a pity the chemicals are not sold in smaller containers. At least the hardware can be resold or kept indefinitely but the chemicals expire after a while.

 

[benny]

Where did you get that polarizer holder? Cool kit. But I doubt its small enough for a Voigtlander or Canonet. :sweatsm:

This particular Universal Polarizer fits lens with filter size 39mm, 46mm, 49mm and 55mm...

http://us.leica-camera.com/photography/m_system/accessories/filters/2197.html

There are other rangefinder polarizing options from makers like Kenko, etc.

Cheers,

 

[Royale With Cheese]

can try this:
http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=36&products_id=158
http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=36&products_id=168

 

[Nature88]

Yatlapball:

Yea. I notice a there is a "cut" line on the polarizer. But I try it on my DSLR and it doenst always work when I point it laterally to where the light source is from. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt. Think Im really bad at handling polarizer or my sense of direction is bad. :embrass:

nstclicks:

Thanks for the link. But can I use the same method for colour? Cause the link is for black and white. It will be great if able to use this method for colour films as well.


benny:

Thanks for the link. Maybe meantime will try the primitive method. If really cannot then will purchase the equipment online.


Royale With Cheese:

Thanks for the link. Feels weird to have a add on polarizer on the hotshoe instead of the VF or the lens itself. :embrass: