Rambo-style camera bag: Urban Quiver
- Thread starter Bamboopictures
- Start date
Looks good. Thanks for sharing.
I have used one of the think tank version that is similar but shorter.
But with one side sling, there is only so much the shoulder can take. Even w rotation of either shoulder, you get very exhausted at the end of the day, as compared to a haversack design.
Even though the think tank design offers accessibility as the selling point, end day the functional aspect is you either take your camera out or leave it in. You don't access the camera bag 20 times a day.
I eventually sold it off.
I have used one of the think tank version that is similar but shorter.
But with one side sling, there is only so much the shoulder can take. Even w rotation of either shoulder, you get very exhausted at the end of the day, as compared to a haversack design.
Even though the think tank design offers accessibility as the selling point, end day the functional aspect is you either take your camera out or leave it in. You don't access the camera bag 20 times a day.
I eventually sold it off.
Reminds me a bit of the Timbuk2 Informant Camera Sling:
http://www.timbuk2.com/informant-ds...50.html?dwvar_450_size=5&dwvar_450_color=6023
http://www.timbuk2.com/informant-ds...50.html?dwvar_450_size=5&dwvar_450_color=6023
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
The timbuk2 informant certainly looks more easier to access for body and lenses!
Actually, I was looking for a bag to hold a slider, a tripod and a travel-pole.
A dry tube might do the trick quite well
[video=youtube;zzJvRsn8MJU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzJvRsn8MJU[/video]
Actually, I was looking for a bag to hold a slider, a tripod and a travel-pole.
A dry tube might do the trick quite well
[video=youtube;zzJvRsn8MJU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzJvRsn8MJU[/video]
I went to the route of getting an art tube (those for holding rolled up canvases. But it didn't work out.
Right now with Sirui T1005 (40 cm), Myrmica slider (48 cm), sony a7r with 3 lenses, everything fits into my messenger bag with room to spare for water bottle, laptop, jacket etc.
I estimate less than 4 kg w the equipment set up.
Right now with Sirui T1005 (40 cm), Myrmica slider (48 cm), sony a7r with 3 lenses, everything fits into my messenger bag with room to spare for water bottle, laptop, jacket etc.
I estimate less than 4 kg w the equipment set up.
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
I'm paranoid about putting glass together with rigs. Is your messenger bag padded and compartmentalized?
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
My everyday camera pack is a KATA CC193PL.
Bursting at the seams, it will hold an A7s, 4 lenses, 2 small camcorders and a mic kit.
For tripods, light kits, dolly etc I use a Cressi Moby 5
[video=youtube;Okntr8lIEeM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Okntr8lIEeM[/video]
These are transportation bags, but when I'm shooting, it's just a few lens pouches on the belt and this padded NatGeo pouch
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
Being quite absent-minded, I rely heavily on bags to keep organized and prevent myself from losing gear. I try to have a bag or case for every kit so if there is an empty bag, I know I've forgotten to keep thet piece of equipment.
I transport all my gear on a small scooter, so my bags have to fit onto passenger seat and the tiny foot rest of my Aprilia.
The bag that has served me the best was a 150 liter Osprey Space Station. But they don't make them anymore and mine is close to 8 year old and very abused.
[video=youtube;vKWnc_yNqEw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKWnc_yNqEw[/video]
The Osprey is great for getting gear to a location and the aluminum frame allows me to latch carbiners on a few more camera bags.
But on industrial shoots, it's not practical to climb stairs with the Osprey. So if I've not recced a location, I usually play safe and carry the Cressi diver bag.
Most items will fit in the main compartment, but micro dolly and my video tripod will have to be stuffed into the side pockets.
Things to consider while packing:
1. Is the bag full enough?
Ancient chinese junk boats are compartmentalized so that each compartment can be packed so tightly that the fragile porcelain wares cannot bang against anything on the rough seas because every piece is squeezed tightly against other pieces.
The more tightly packed your bag is, the lesser their contents will jiggle around inside.
2. Pack like an eskimo.
Because of the extreme cold conditions, eskimo hunters try to conserve energy by carrying as little gear as possible.
After each successful outing, they will leave out items from their kit that did not contribute to their hunt.
For lone shooters, the most obvious items to scrutinize is the casing that your gear shipped in. Eg. Does a lavalier mic really have to be protected in a watertight pelican case?
3. 'Pour' your gear (like water) into your bag
Water finds its way into every crevice. As far as possible allow you equipment to be 'fluid' inside your bag. I don't mean randomly dumping everything unprotected inside a large bag but rather understanding how gravity will affect the contents of your bag as you move it around. Use soft yielding material like neoprene, gel or ciesta padded cases to store individual kit so that each case can deform slightly when you pack more and more. The content in soft cases have some leeway to accommodate the content in another soft case. This slipping and sliding is more space-efficient than using hard casing where a large portion of the volume is occupied by protective foam rather than gear. Reserve the pelican cases for only the most brittle objects like bulbs, teleprompters, LCD screens.
4. Let the weak sit on the strong.
Plastics are more fragile than aluminum which in turn is softer than steel.Pack in a way so that the weight of the fragile gear rests on the heavier, tougher ones.
5. Pressure is force per unit area.
Pointed or thin-edged objects are the most destructive to other pieces of equipment Examine each piece of gear to identify sharp edges and points. Bag these items in velvet pouches or give them their own compartments.
6. Opt for semi-hard over hard casing.
Some items like laptops, mixers, EVFs can survive slight squishing. Smiggle-style semi-hardcase material like this one is good enough if you are not going to plonk heavy stuff on them
7. Hands are for emergencies.
Consolidate your gear into bags you can carry easily yet leave at least one hand free.
8. Pull it for security
Absurd as it sounds, the same security guard will bar you from using the passenger lift if you push your wheeled luggage in front of you but allow you to use the lift if you pull the same luggage behind you!
I transport all my gear on a small scooter, so my bags have to fit onto passenger seat and the tiny foot rest of my Aprilia.
The bag that has served me the best was a 150 liter Osprey Space Station. But they don't make them anymore and mine is close to 8 year old and very abused.
[video=youtube;vKWnc_yNqEw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKWnc_yNqEw[/video]
The Osprey is great for getting gear to a location and the aluminum frame allows me to latch carbiners on a few more camera bags.
But on industrial shoots, it's not practical to climb stairs with the Osprey. So if I've not recced a location, I usually play safe and carry the Cressi diver bag.
Most items will fit in the main compartment, but micro dolly and my video tripod will have to be stuffed into the side pockets.
Things to consider while packing:
1. Is the bag full enough?
Ancient chinese junk boats are compartmentalized so that each compartment can be packed so tightly that the fragile porcelain wares cannot bang against anything on the rough seas because every piece is squeezed tightly against other pieces.
The more tightly packed your bag is, the lesser their contents will jiggle around inside.
2. Pack like an eskimo.
Because of the extreme cold conditions, eskimo hunters try to conserve energy by carrying as little gear as possible.
After each successful outing, they will leave out items from their kit that did not contribute to their hunt.
For lone shooters, the most obvious items to scrutinize is the casing that your gear shipped in. Eg. Does a lavalier mic really have to be protected in a watertight pelican case?
3. 'Pour' your gear (like water) into your bag
Water finds its way into every crevice. As far as possible allow you equipment to be 'fluid' inside your bag. I don't mean randomly dumping everything unprotected inside a large bag but rather understanding how gravity will affect the contents of your bag as you move it around. Use soft yielding material like neoprene, gel or ciesta padded cases to store individual kit so that each case can deform slightly when you pack more and more. The content in soft cases have some leeway to accommodate the content in another soft case. This slipping and sliding is more space-efficient than using hard casing where a large portion of the volume is occupied by protective foam rather than gear. Reserve the pelican cases for only the most brittle objects like bulbs, teleprompters, LCD screens.
4. Let the weak sit on the strong.
Plastics are more fragile than aluminum which in turn is softer than steel.Pack in a way so that the weight of the fragile gear rests on the heavier, tougher ones.
5. Pressure is force per unit area.
Pointed or thin-edged objects are the most destructive to other pieces of equipment Examine each piece of gear to identify sharp edges and points. Bag these items in velvet pouches or give them their own compartments.
6. Opt for semi-hard over hard casing.
Some items like laptops, mixers, EVFs can survive slight squishing. Smiggle-style semi-hardcase material like this one is good enough if you are not going to plonk heavy stuff on them
7. Hands are for emergencies.
Consolidate your gear into bags you can carry easily yet leave at least one hand free.
8. Pull it for security
Absurd as it sounds, the same security guard will bar you from using the passenger lift if you push your wheeled luggage in front of you but allow you to use the lift if you pull the same luggage behind you!
Last edited:
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
Haha! I think some days, I spend more time packing and unpacking for shoots then I do on the actual shoot itself!
I can spend up to three days packing for a 3-hour shoot so I'm a little obsessive that way.
So many things to bring but only got one hand, lah!
Amen brother. You do not walk alone.
I think packing serves as a very essential step in preparing for a shoot. Packing helps me to refocus on the essentials and be very efficient in my shoots. If i can't pack efficiently, it means i have not done my pre-pro well.
I often pack about 5-15% extra for contingency. Depending on the scale of the job, the type of equipment and if i have enuf assistance.
I make it a habit to achieve around 80% or more utilisation rate of my equipments. I don't want myself and my guys to carry extra unneeded stuff.
flipfreak
Senior Member
My everyday camera pack is a KATA CC193PL.
Bursting at the seams, it will hold an A7s, 4 lenses, 2 small camcorders and a mic kit.
For tripods, light kits, dolly etc I use a Cressi Moby 5
[video=youtube;Okntr8lIEeM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Okntr8lIEeM[/video]
These are transportation bags, but when I'm shooting, it's just a few lens pouches on the belt and this padded NatGeo pouch
i am actually looking at the 195PL myself but since kata is no more, manfrotto bags are more ex than kata ones. maybe i will check out how much are the manfrotto ones tomorrow.
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
DSLR Revolution at Funan still selling the Kata range.
flipfreak
Senior Member
really? thanks. i only saw the manfrotto version the other day. gonna take a look later!
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