Questions on B&W

[yumepoi]

Hi,

I am just enlisted to B&W class @ PSS and trying to learn B&W. There are several questions that I would like to ask in this forum. I really appreciate all comments.

1) What is the difference between T-Max400 and Tri-X 400? I believe the Tri-X is grainier (do correct me if i am wrong)? Is there any more difference in tonal range, etc?

2) Trying to buy multigrade paper rc @ Ruby but it was out of stock. Instead, got the multigrade fb. the saleslady told me that the fb paper needs 20mins of fixing and 30mins of washing. I checked the tech spec, it says 1 min of fixing in ilford rapid fixer and 60mins of washing. Is the fixing time really takes that long? I have no idea what fixer i use @PSS here though. And what about the washing time?

3) The fb paper also frustratingly curls in every imaginable direction after it dries Any method so that it won't curl? I just put my old heavy textbooks on top of it for now.

4) I have only learned about the basic of B&W printing. I just read about selenium toning. what is the purpose of it (pardon my ignorance)?

Thanks for reading it. Please do drop your comments/advice, etc.

Regards

 

[crapshot]

hi,

if you refer to Ilford's website for their papers and chemicals you will find the correct times. 20 minutes is definitely too long. 1 minute is the correct fixing time with Ilford's Hypam fixer at 1:4 dilution. 60 minutes washing with water or 30 minutes washing with a hypo bath before washing with water.

Check with the darkroom and find out what brand of chemicals they use and the concentration of solutions in class.

Tmax 400 and 400 TX are slightly different types of film, giving two different kinds of
grain. Tonality is pretty similiar, I find.

I personally find Tmax films to have a "greasy" look which I don't like. i prefer the classic-looking grain of 400 TX. You should try both to see which you prefer for your kind of photos.

400TX is also pretty easy to use, easy to find, and develops well in almost any developer.

FB paper takes a long time to wash, because the chemicals get absorbed into the paper fibres. If you can't get Ilford RC paper at ruby, try Agfa RC papers which you can get from Cathay and Ron Camera at Adelphi. Agfa FB papers are also very good.

RC papers are good and cheap, frankly for most photos we shoot it's more than good enough.

The slower you let the FB paper dry, the less it curls. Bring a nice big ziplock bag for your next class and bring your prints home to dry in a non aircon room. After drying it will be only a bit curly.

Selenium toner converts silver halides in your print to a much more stable selenium compound, leaving your photo more resistant to damage from less than ideal display or storage conditions.

It also gives an effect of increasing shadow detail and increasing contrast, which can make your final print look better than without toning.

You can also change the colour of your print from greys and blacks to brown/ reddish depending on paper brand and conentration and time the photo is left inside the toner.

Different papers give different visual effects with selenium toners, so you have to experiment to find the result you want.

 

[Patryk]

More on the Tmax and TriX...the TMax series of film are meant to be super fine grain black and white film, which is contrary to the direction of the TriX, which has the classic grainy feel of good ol' black and white film... more contrasty too than the Tmax400. Each has its own application, but for street shooting, i would suggest the TriX..the grain brings 'reality' to the shot.

If you want to try other brands, you can try Ilford's HP5 400...the grain is somewhat like TriX, but gives you a more richer contrast (in my opinion anyways, since i use ID-11 developer with HP5 =p)

So, just experiment with both films, find the one that you prefer...and good luck on learning the wonders of BnW photography...really great stuff!