Qn on Teleprompter for video use
- Thread starter JacePhoto
- Start date
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
Teleprompters are absolutely essential for video addresses, vidcasts and product demo videos etc. They can also be helpful even in off-axis interview shots for a nervous or inexperienced talent.
There are two types of prompters: mirrored and non-mirrored. If you have the luxury of space and can place the camera more than 3 meters a way from your talent, a non-mirrored prompter is preferred because:
-there is no light loss,
-no risk of flare or smudges
-no risk of breakage of glass beamsplitter
-allows you to display other non-invertable screens such as powerpoint, chinese text etc
- allows your lens to accept attachments like ring lights, mattebox etc.
Your talent will also be able to see a brighter, larger and sharper text screen. For those using retroreflective chromatte backdrops, non-mirror prompters are your only choice. You can make your own non-mirrored prompter for very little money. I use a 7" USB Mimomonitor attached to a macbook running Promptdog. USD67
http://www.mimomonitors.com/products/mimo-720-f-flex-screen-mountable-touchscreen-usb-monitor.
You can pretty much use any small monitor even HDMI or AV ones with the right scanconverter. But USB monitor is a neater solution because data and power comes from the same cable.
It is better to mount the monitor just below the lens rather than above the camera. (Do people usually look at your hair or look at your lips when you talk?)
You can use a friction arm clamped to your tripod to hold up the USB monitor. Start from a distance of around 3m and increase the distance if neccesary. Always check the eyeline of the talent before recording to ensure that you are far enough to create the parallax illusion of your talent's gaze. Zoom into an extreme close up and ask your talent to look directly into the centre of the monitor and then into the centre of the lens. When you can't tell the difference in his/her gaze, you are far enough. Reframe and begin prompting. If his/her gaze has apparently shifted in the test, just move the camera further away.
In smaller location, there simply just isn't sufficient distance to create the parallax effect. There is no choice but to use a mirrored prompter. You can still use the same USB monitor but additionally you will need a hooded beamsplitter mirror kit such as a padprompter from onetakeonly.com
http://www.onetakeonly.com/OneTakeOnly/Pad_Prompter.html
Always store your beamsplitter glass in SaranWrap to prevent smudges. Pointing your lens at a dark background will reveal smudges before you record. Black carbon paper for typing or tracing is a quick way to clean your beamsplitter on location.
It is still possible to be too near the talent even when using a mirrored prompter. Ask the talent to read the last line of the text. If the gaze is too low, (talent appears to be staring at your chest or crotch) the camera is too near.
For my line of work, last minute changes to the script is a frequent occurrence so an ipad is not ideal. Instead, I prefer running promptdog off a laptop so my client can hand me the script on a thumbdrive or type quickly on the laptop. Promptdog allows me to control the speed of the scroll and also allows me to see the text in normal view while displaying a mirror image view in the USB monitor.
You can mount your laptop to on your tripod using this inexpensive Tripad table:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/823646-REG/Tripad_TR549_Tripod_Mountable_Workspace_with.html
Most salesmen will try to sell you a mirrored prompter, but remember they are fragile, expensive, takes longer to set up, cuts down at least a stop or two of light and is prone to flares and smudges.
And if you tempted to use normal glass in a DIY prompter project, you will get double text image. Worse, if you try to use one-way mirror from your local glass factory, you will get TRIPLE ghosting in the text. Bottomline, just pony up the cash for proper beamsplitter glass;
http://www.telepromptermirror.com/
hahaha! I learned the hard way!
There are two types of prompters: mirrored and non-mirrored. If you have the luxury of space and can place the camera more than 3 meters a way from your talent, a non-mirrored prompter is preferred because:
-there is no light loss,
-no risk of flare or smudges
-no risk of breakage of glass beamsplitter
-allows you to display other non-invertable screens such as powerpoint, chinese text etc
- allows your lens to accept attachments like ring lights, mattebox etc.
Your talent will also be able to see a brighter, larger and sharper text screen. For those using retroreflective chromatte backdrops, non-mirror prompters are your only choice. You can make your own non-mirrored prompter for very little money. I use a 7" USB Mimomonitor attached to a macbook running Promptdog. USD67
http://www.mimomonitors.com/products/mimo-720-f-flex-screen-mountable-touchscreen-usb-monitor.
You can pretty much use any small monitor even HDMI or AV ones with the right scanconverter. But USB monitor is a neater solution because data and power comes from the same cable.
It is better to mount the monitor just below the lens rather than above the camera. (Do people usually look at your hair or look at your lips when you talk?)
You can use a friction arm clamped to your tripod to hold up the USB monitor. Start from a distance of around 3m and increase the distance if neccesary. Always check the eyeline of the talent before recording to ensure that you are far enough to create the parallax illusion of your talent's gaze. Zoom into an extreme close up and ask your talent to look directly into the centre of the monitor and then into the centre of the lens. When you can't tell the difference in his/her gaze, you are far enough. Reframe and begin prompting. If his/her gaze has apparently shifted in the test, just move the camera further away.
In smaller location, there simply just isn't sufficient distance to create the parallax effect. There is no choice but to use a mirrored prompter. You can still use the same USB monitor but additionally you will need a hooded beamsplitter mirror kit such as a padprompter from onetakeonly.com
http://www.onetakeonly.com/OneTakeOnly/Pad_Prompter.html
Always store your beamsplitter glass in SaranWrap to prevent smudges. Pointing your lens at a dark background will reveal smudges before you record. Black carbon paper for typing or tracing is a quick way to clean your beamsplitter on location.
It is still possible to be too near the talent even when using a mirrored prompter. Ask the talent to read the last line of the text. If the gaze is too low, (talent appears to be staring at your chest or crotch) the camera is too near.
For my line of work, last minute changes to the script is a frequent occurrence so an ipad is not ideal. Instead, I prefer running promptdog off a laptop so my client can hand me the script on a thumbdrive or type quickly on the laptop. Promptdog allows me to control the speed of the scroll and also allows me to see the text in normal view while displaying a mirror image view in the USB monitor.
You can mount your laptop to on your tripod using this inexpensive Tripad table:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/823646-REG/Tripad_TR549_Tripod_Mountable_Workspace_with.html
Most salesmen will try to sell you a mirrored prompter, but remember they are fragile, expensive, takes longer to set up, cuts down at least a stop or two of light and is prone to flares and smudges.
And if you tempted to use normal glass in a DIY prompter project, you will get double text image. Worse, if you try to use one-way mirror from your local glass factory, you will get TRIPLE ghosting in the text. Bottomline, just pony up the cash for proper beamsplitter glass;
http://www.telepromptermirror.com/
hahaha! I learned the hard way!
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Wow! Comprehensive! I was almost gg to do a DIY one. Let me think twice now. Haha.
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
Buying a padprompter is very much like buying insurance; you wish you would never need to use it.
I actually wouldn't even bring it out if I know I have more than 3m between the camera and the subject.
95% of the time I only require a USB monitor as a prompter.
I actually wouldn't even bring it out if I know I have more than 3m between the camera and the subject.
95% of the time I only require a USB monitor as a prompter.
Very informative read, some great tips there, thanks!
There's a recent teleprompter project on kickstarter / meant to be low budget and compact, looks like range and usability might be a tad limited, but if you don't need to use it often, might be worth a look? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/957253584/the-parrot-a-compact-teleprompter-for-dslr-cameras
There's a recent teleprompter project on kickstarter / meant to be low budget and compact, looks like range and usability might be a tad limited, but if you don't need to use it often, might be worth a look? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/957253584/the-parrot-a-compact-teleprompter-for-dslr-cameras
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for sharing your experiences! Appreciate it!
Well explained by BambooPictures... 
The problem with iPad/Tablet based prompters is the limited ability to revise text & sub-par scrolling control. Hard to get the right read speed for some people.
I own a Telescript DV8 system with mac/pc based cueing software, and even after so many attempts to switch to iPad based system & rigs, I still like the DV8 despite it being a lot heavier than necessary & the need for a heavy duty tripod.
The problem with iPad/Tablet based prompters is the limited ability to revise text & sub-par scrolling control. Hard to get the right read speed for some people.
I own a Telescript DV8 system with mac/pc based cueing software, and even after so many attempts to switch to iPad based system & rigs, I still like the DV8 despite it being a lot heavier than necessary & the need for a heavy duty tripod.
Well explained by BambooPictures...
The problem with iPad/Tablet based prompters is the limited ability to revise text & sub-par scrolling control. Hard to get the right read speed for some people.
I own a Telescript DV8 system with mac/pc based cueing software, and even after so many attempts to switch to iPad based system & rigs, I still like the DV8 despite it being a lot heavier than necessary & the need for a heavy duty tripod.
Thanks for the inputs Dixon!
Bamboopictures
Senior Member
Jace, if you want to try hacking a smartphone prompter quickly for your A7, all the parts below can be bought at Orient Photos (SLS)
Selfy stick with phone clamp
Manfrotto Pico clamp
1/4"-20 to hotshoe adapter
In addition you will also need:
- black neoprene bag ($2 from Daiso)
- A brand new CD jewelcase
- adhesive velcro strip ($2 from Daiso)
- lenshood
Instructions:
1. Attach the manfrotto pico clamp to the hotshoe of your A7.
2. Clamp the selfie stick to the pico clamp and extend it so that your smartphone screen is facing the floor and floating just above where your camera lenshood would be.
3. Unzip the neoprene bag and cut a hole in the bottom of the bag large enough for the camera lens to stick through. Above this large hole, make a small slit so that the selfie stick can go through. This bag is the hood of the prompter.
4. Adjust the bag so that it is supported by the inverted smartphone. You can velcro the bag in position to the back of your phone. I find that the hood works best when the zipper is vertical.
5. Remove the clear acrylic lid of the CD jewel case. This is your mirror so make sure it is not scratched. Acrylic will not produce ghosting of text but is easily scratched.
6. Stick the rough side of the velcro along the edges of the jewel case lid. The velcro will cling to the inside of the neoprene bag
7. Attach a lenshood to your lens so that the neoprene bag will not slip-off the lens.
7. Place your 'mirror' inside your prompter 'hood' and tilt it upwards until you can see the reflection of your phone's screen.
Selfy stick with phone clamp
Manfrotto Pico clamp
1/4"-20 to hotshoe adapter
In addition you will also need:
- black neoprene bag ($2 from Daiso)
- A brand new CD jewelcase
- adhesive velcro strip ($2 from Daiso)
- lenshood
Instructions:
1. Attach the manfrotto pico clamp to the hotshoe of your A7.
2. Clamp the selfie stick to the pico clamp and extend it so that your smartphone screen is facing the floor and floating just above where your camera lenshood would be.
3. Unzip the neoprene bag and cut a hole in the bottom of the bag large enough for the camera lens to stick through. Above this large hole, make a small slit so that the selfie stick can go through. This bag is the hood of the prompter.
4. Adjust the bag so that it is supported by the inverted smartphone. You can velcro the bag in position to the back of your phone. I find that the hood works best when the zipper is vertical.
5. Remove the clear acrylic lid of the CD jewel case. This is your mirror so make sure it is not scratched. Acrylic will not produce ghosting of text but is easily scratched.
6. Stick the rough side of the velcro along the edges of the jewel case lid. The velcro will cling to the inside of the neoprene bag
7. Attach a lenshood to your lens so that the neoprene bag will not slip-off the lens.
7. Place your 'mirror' inside your prompter 'hood' and tilt it upwards until you can see the reflection of your phone's screen.
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