Problems in Developing Black and White

[axis90x]

Hello guys,

Recently i shot a roll of color film and a black and white film,
Kodak color and Ilford delta
and sent them both to kodak to develop

my color film got images but my black and white film is clean and clear :dunno:
ahh wasted all my effort and shooting like shooting without film.

Is the problem with the developer or with me, the way i insert the film wrongly?
but when i shot the last exposure, the winder thingy for next shot got stuck so i winded the whole roll of film back as i had finished the 36 exposure, i did the same for the color film.

:dunno:

thanks in advance.
cheers.

 

[daredevil123]

If the negatives look clear, it means if you print them, they will be all black. It means they were not exposed at all. Maybe the winder catch did not catch the flim at all... and you were happily shooting blanks.

BTW did you check if the film is way way expired or something?

 

[axis90x]

If the negatives look clear, it means if you print them, they will be all black. It means they were not exposed at all. Maybe the winder catch did not catch the flim at all... and you were happily shooting blanks.

BTW did you check if the film is way way expired or something?

the winder catch did catch the film becoz i said i shot till 36 exposure and the thing got stuck means that it is the last exposure.
and the film is not expired.

 

[blacvios]

the winder catch did catch the film becoz i said i shot till 36 exposure and the thing got stuck means that it is the last exposure.
and the film is not expired.

Is it true black and white or C-41 BW. If true BW those neighbourhood kodak shops don't do it leh, or they mistaken it for C-41.

 

[Royale With Cheese]

the winder catch did catch the film becoz i said i shot till 36 exposure and the thing got stuck means that it is the last exposure.
and the film is not expired.

Not really, the counter will keep on going on even if they film did not catch on the spool.

The only way to be safe is when you load the film & **** the shutter, make sure the rewind knob moves when you **** the shutter

 

[axis90x]

Is it true black and white or C-41 BW. If true BW those neighbourhood kodak shops don't do it leh, or they mistaken it for C-41.

wow this is abit chim term for a starter like me :x
haha i think its true black and white?

i am using ilford delta 400

 

[axis90x]

Not really, the counter will keep on going on even if they film did not catch on the spool.

The only way to be safe is when you load the film & **** the shutter, make sure the rewind knob moves when you **** the shutter

nope i cant shoot anymore as the trigger button is stuck as i cannot wind it anymore means i am on the last exposure right?

ahh wasted my effort haha

 

[catchlights]

wow this is abit chim term for a starter like me :x
haha i think its true black and white?

i am using ilford delta 400

Ilford Delta 400 is b&w film and only can be process by B&W developer, not C-41 developer, labs usually don't make such mistake.

and labs don't do B&W processing, they will send to somewhere else to process for you, so how long did they take to process both the film for you?

and you need to check is your camera function properly too.

 

[axis90x]

Ilford Delta 400 is b&w film and only can be process by B&W developer, not C-41 developer, labs usually don't make such mistake.

and labs don't do B&W processing, they will send to somewhere else to process for you, so how long did they take to process both the film for you?

and you need to check is your camera function properly too.

hmm the kodak lab just did it in a few hours time -.-
i send in like around 5+ then can collect at 8pm -.-

my camera is functioning properly as i used color films and it works haha..

 

[azzurri]

hmm the kodak lab just did it in a few hours time -.-
i send in like around 5+ then can collect at 8pm -.-

my camera is functioning properly as i used color films and it works haha..

It should be that the lab mistook it for C41 film. If you send it to most normal processing labs, they will have to send it back to Kodak to get it processed. Turn around time is about a week or so.

 

[axis90x]

It should be that the lab mistook it for C41 film. If you send it to most normal processing labs, they will have to send it back to Kodak to get it processed. Turn around time is about a week or so.

haha alright partly my fault not knowing that the film cannot be develop by c-41.
thanks a lot will take note of this..

and btw afga black and white film cannot be develop by c-41 too ?

 

[catchlights]

hmm the kodak lab just did it in a few hours time -.-
i send in like around 5+ then can collect at 8pm -.-

my camera is functioning properly as i used color films and it works haha..

I believe the lab has make a mistake by processing with a wrong developer. If you can proof this is their mistake, most likely they will compensate you a new roll of film.

It should be that the lab mistook it for C41 film. If you send it to most normal processing labs, they will have to send it back to Kodak to get it processed. Turn around time is about a week or so.

Kodak has stop running a processing lab long long ago, all the Kodak mini lab are franchise business. Fuji also doing the same.

 

[catchlights]

haha alright partly my fault not knowing that the film cannot be develop by c-41.
thanks a lot will take note of this..

and btw afga black and white film cannot be develop by c-41 too ?

labs usually will check the film first before accepting your order.

you can check the developing instruction on the film packaging. they will indicate using what type of processing method very clearly. it also printed on the film cartage as well.

 

[axis90x]

I believe the lab has make a mistake by processing with a wrong developer. If you can proof this is their mistake, most likely they will compensate you a new roll of film.

Kodak has stop running a processing lab long long ago, all the Kodak mini lab are franchise business. Fuji also doing the same.

haha got no ways to proof their mistake :cry:
nvm shall try fotohub next time haha xD

 

[articulate]

If TS was sure the film caught on the spool as described by attempting to **** the shutter on the last exposure, and not being able to, indicating that his film was all wound up. Then it's certain they processed it in the wrong chemicals.

I'm pretty sure you can prove it's the photo lab's fault. If you sent in two rolls, and the colour came out fine, means your camera has no problem. Furthermore, even when I send in TMAX 100(I hate processing that by myself), Fee Fee takes at least a day to process and print for me.

Best solution in my opinion is to develop your own B/W film, no need for a darkroom at all. Fotohub and Fee Fee also develop B/W, but I think only Fee Fee prints on silver paper.

 

[Shawn]

After hearing nightmarish stories from friends who sent their BW rolls to labs for developing and having myself, experience 2 rolls ruined from botched jobs; it got me off my lazy behind to start developing my own BW. No way am I going to lose more precious memories, just because some "third-party BW developing sweatshop minion" had mistaken his fixer as his "developer".

I cannot trust the labs anymore due to that. I would think if one makes the effort to shoot, then it warrants a trusted source for developing. Either DIY or send it to someone who actually knows what he is doing.

 

[articulate]

Just a word of caution though, if you don't shoot primarily black and white(as I do), then it's better to get powder chemicals if you intend to develop on your own. The developers you can get nowadays are not the same as rodinal which can be kept for a long long time.

 

[Royale With Cheese]

Just a word of caution though, if you don't shoot primarily black and white(as I do), then it's better to get powder chemicals if you intend to develop on your own. The developers you can get nowadays are not the same as rodinal which can be kept for a long long time.

I use HC-110.

The diluted developer, I keep them for about 2-3 weeks, do the most 5 rolls & I dump them away to make a fresh batch

 

[axis90x]

I use HC-110.

The diluted developer, I keep them for about 2-3 weeks, do the most 5 rolls & I dump them away to make a fresh batch

bro let me go your house develop HAHAH! :sticktong

 

[nstclicks]

Just a word of caution though, if you don't shoot primarily black and white(as I do), then it's better to get powder chemicals if you intend to develop on your own. The developers you can get nowadays are not the same as rodinal which can be kept for a long long time.

HC-110 will keep quite well. See the sticky at the Traditional Darkroom forum http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45612