Please recommend a B&W.

[ninelives]

ian, i like to check with you. is it true that u need not have to tell the guys at the lab about the speeed of your film?? even u doing your own bulk load. IE : the machine don't read the DX coding on your caninster, it just process.

is it true?

thanks.

 

[mervlam]

Originally posted by ninelives
ian, i like to check with you. is it true that u need not have to tell the guys at the lab about the speeed of your film?? even u doing your own bulk load. IE : the machine don't read the DX coding on your caninster, it just process.

is it true?

thanks.

for C-41, no need. for E-6, no need. for B&W, i dont know. :dunno:

 

[Gunjack]

Originally posted by hongsien
Hi Gunjack,

I experienced the same thing, i use Tri-X film, also grainy film, but when I send them to a lab what they do is scanning them before printing. Somehow (still a puzzle to me) this process increases the grain size (and contrast), so i don't do it again unless I am too lazy again to do my own printing.

Hi,

So you are saying that the very grainy effect is most likely due to the scanning process and not actually on the film itself, so if I print it the normal B&W way, it will be less grainy, is it? Sorry for the basic questions, total newbie in B&W, hehehe...

 

[hongsien]

Yes, another friend did the same and also got grainy prints. very tsrange. I haven't printed the same pics myself on B&W paper, so can't really say. But I have developed Tri-X films myself since 1979 and always uses the same developer and timing and temp., so I don't expect to be any difference this time. Normally, the grain of tri-X is very sharp and relatively small, on these machine prints they are large and sharp too. Just ask someone to print the same pic for you on black and white paper.

 

[ckiang]

Originally posted by hongsien
Yes, another friend did the same and also got grainy prints. very tsrange. I haven't printed the same pics myself on B&W paper, so can't really say. But I have developed Tri-X films myself since 1979 and always uses the same developer and timing and temp., so I don't expect to be any difference this time. Normally, the grain of tri-X is very sharp and relatively small, on these machine prints they are large and sharp too. Just ask someone to print the same pic for you on black and white paper.

I think what happened is that the minilab machines used to scan the film is "too sharp", and also, the unsharp masking probably accentuated the grain. Traditional prints normally don't show as much of the grain.

Regards
CK

 

[Ian]

Originally posted by ninelives
ian, i like to check with you. is it true that u need not have to tell the guys at the lab about the speeed of your film?? even u doing your own bulk load. IE : the machine don't read the DX coding on your caninster, it just process.

is it true?

thanks.

9,

For C41 there's no difference as it's a constant time/temperature process for all C41 film.

For E6 and B/W you must tell the lab what ISO you shot the film at as the processing times vary according to ISO rating.

 

[hongsien]

Hi Ian,

I made a scratch on the film once using a rubber squeeze (from paterson) and since then never use them anymore. There is no way i can take the pics again. Maybe I didn't store the squeezer properly, or didn't wash them in water before use, i can't remember, it has been too long ago . Also, in this warm weather of Singapore, the rubber can dry up and this makes them brittle and increases the risks of getting scratches on the film. BTW: I was in Holland (no hot weather.......) when I was using the squeezer and got the scratch. It was I think just a piece of sand dust or something....... bad luck.

 

[Simon]

Originally posted by hondacub
Talking about black and white film,

what is the budget to get all the necessary things for self b&w film development....ie getting like the developer, stop bath solution, and so on including the film tanks and measuring cylinders and stuff?

Me using Tmax right now and finds it a little bit ex to develop and print. So thinking of developing film on my own....(and send to lab for prints or contacts) ......at least cut down cost for long term.

Maybe even getting a b&w mini darkroom in my room in future?????

looking forward to replies and reccomendations.

regards
hondacub:kiss: ......:what:

It's very economical to Bulkroll and develops your own films.

Tmax100 Bulk around S$50 which give you around 21 rolls, which = S$2.40 per roll

Developing tank for 2 rolls
Squeegie
2 x 75-100mm graduate
Film changing bag
Thermometer
Tmax Developer (process around 20 rolls)
Fixers (process around 20 rolls)

Estimate cost S$120

 

[Ian]

Originally posted by hongsien
Hi Ian,

I made a scratch on the film once using a rubber squeeze (from paterson) and since then never use them anymore. There is no way i can take the pics again. Maybe I didn't store the squeezer properly, or didn't wash them in water before use, i can't remember, it has been too long ago . Also, in this warm weather of Singapore, the rubber can dry up and this makes them brittle and increases the risks of getting scratches on the film. BTW: I was in Holland (no hot weather.......) when I was using the squeezer and got the scratch. It was I think just a piece of sand dust or something....... bad luck.

Sounds very much like sand or grit. I toss my squeegies every couple of years as they dry out here in Perth as well. Washing the squeegie and running my fingers down the spines before using it on every film is the key to my never scratching a neg.