Ongoing thread to get a particular look...

[raytoei]

.... i am trying to get this look:


Yamasaki Ko-ji
yamasakiko-ji.tk

Junku Newcleus
https://www.google.com.sg/search?q=...iImQWRpIG4Bg&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAQ&biw=1173&bih=707

Daido Moriyama
Daido Moriyama - Google Search

This thread is a ongoing thread to experiment to get this look.

There are enough information from interviews from these three japanese
street photographers to get this look. Now all I have to do is experiment
and see what works.

Please share your information and photos if possible.

I am posting this here as it involves film processing methods, though I
have no facilities to do wet printing at this juncture, just scanning and PP.

thanks

raytoei

 

[raytoei]

From the initial scan from the web:

* Use film cameras,
Junku uses a Summarit 50/f1.5,
Daido uses the Ricoh GR1,
Yamasaki uses all types of P&S as well as film cameras.

* Junko uses Neopan 1600 and recently switched to Tri-X.
* Daido uses Tri-X,
* Yamasaki uses the whole gamut: TRI-X, D76, 90M-S, ILFORD, Fuji-WP,KM4 Paper.

* All developed in D-76
* All do wet-print.

 

[raytoei]

This is a difficult part, describing the images:

* Grainy and textured.
* High contrast, dark black and blown highlights
* Looks under-exposed
* Possibly 1600 or 3200 ISO
* Flash used in close range
* DOF doesn't look shallow, narrow Aperture ? (f4 onwards ?)
* Little shadow details, overblown highlights


raytoei

 

[raytoei]

First Experiment:

Tri-X pushed to ISO 1000 (max ISO) on my Contax T
This tiny RF has a 2.8f Sonnar, sharp and higher contrast.
Develop in Rodinal stand development at room 30C temp,
for 50mins with 5 agitation at 1min, 15min and 30mins point.

raytoei

 

[anerjee]

have you looked into just buying an olympus m4/3 camera and using the grainy b&w mode?

i am sure you cannot distinguish between the 2. i did that for some time, and eventually got bored of it ;p

.... i am trying to get this look:


Yamasaki Ko-ji
yamasakiko-ji.tk

Junku Newcleus
https://www.google.com.sg/search?q=...iImQWRpIG4Bg&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAQ&biw=1173&bih=707

Daido Moriyama
Daido Moriyama - Google Search

This thread is a ongoing thread to experiment to get this look.

There are enough information from interviews from these three japanese
street photographers to get this look. Now all I have to do is experiment
and see what works.

Please share your information and photos if possible.

I am posting this here as it involves film processing methods, though I
have no facilities to do wet printing at this juncture, just scanning and PP.

thanks

raytoei

 

[raytoei]

anerjee, pls post some of the pix

 

[oceanpriest]

or shoot on digital like salgado did, do some pp using dxo filmpack, transfer back to negative and do wet print :bsmilie:

 

[raytoei]

 

[Benji77]

I personally find this 'look' appealing and invigorating as well. I have tried it recently, both on digital and film.
Film wins.

This should be Delta 400 or TriX, 25mm or 28mm

My thoughts -
1. Lens attributes dont matter much
2. Film type is important
3. Maximum of 24'C during development
4. Filter will help (Orange or Red)
5. The light you shoot in is extra important (tungsten or daylight)

TriX @ 1600 with Orange filter, metered at 800, developed at 1600. Could be TMax.

TriX @ 1600 with Orange filter. Sorry, developer unknown, could be TMax.

 

[Benji77]

Digital, ISO3200, Orange filter, 50mm.

IMO, digital lacks that 'oomphh'. The argument is that 'post processing could be heavier/better, but the effect of film is somehow lacking. This is of course, personal preference.

 

[oceanpriest]

how bout this?

m4-p, elmar 50 2.8, tri-x 400, it was accidentally underexposed, d76 1+1 at room temperature, (can't really remember, but it's about 10-11 mins compared to 9.75mins if develop at 20 celcius)
could be underexposed too since it's almost rain in the evening

 

[mamypoko]

If they do wet prints they probably dodge and burn a lot during the process as well, which you can simulate in Photoshop.

 

[RubbishBin1987]

It is actually a technique to expend latitude pass the film d range cap as well as pushing of it to get grains. 2 ways which people does it in analog ways is either by lith films or lith printing. I have a book on lith printing which i can lend if you are interested. Regarding lith films, i only have sheet films which are sleeping for a very long time in my fridge.

 

[lualua]

Just do everything wrongly. I would

Use a gritty looking film such as Tri x
Exposé at 800
Push develop by 2 stops ie develop for asa1600
Use a high acutance developer such as rodinol at high concentration such as 1:25
Use constant agitation such a jobo rotary processor

Confirm 100% guarantee grainy, contrasty and edgy looking.

 

[Thedraperyfalls]

Just do everything wrongly. I would

HAHAHA!

Jokes aside, I concur!
From what I have seen from Daido's DVD or of Junku on Youtube, they both seem very laid-back.
They both seem to have a happy-go-lucky, come-what-may attitude, Daido Moriyama especially.

So I guess it translates to their developing as well. Just whack and repeat, whack and repeat.
They just do not come across as being very technical nor particular like Ansel and gang.

So like Lualua said, perhaps it is best to just do everything wrongly!

 

[Riotbmx]

Don't know if this is close to what you want at all


Expired Tmax 100 pushed 2 stops, HC110B

 

[raytoei]

Tri-X 400 with rodinal at room temp (which i am used to)
produces marble grains. So far i like what i see with Ilford
PQ Developer + Tri-x, still waiting for the 2nd roll to be
developed before i post the picture.

PQ Dev is Ilford's Universal developer, it was originally meant
for paper + film, but later it became just a paper developer.
The contrast is HIGH.

This PQ dev reacts differently with Neopan 400, well,
it produces interesting grains to say the least:

at 100%

raytoei
ps. i bought pq developer in ruby, small bottle under 10sgd, i think they have run out of this paper developer.
pps. development is like 15ml for 2 rolls at 6.30mins at 30c.

 

[lualua]

Dude, that is recticulation, not grain. Definitely not tri-x grain. Did u shock the emulsion with sudden temperature change during your processing stage?

Tri-X 400 with rodinal at room temp (which i am used to)
produces marble grains. So far i like what i see with Ilford
PQ Developer + Tri-x, still waiting for the 2nd roll to be
developed before i post the picture.

PQ Dev is Ilford's Universal developer, it was originally meant
for paper + film, but later it became just a paper developer.
The contrast is HIGH.

This PQ dev reacts differently with Neopan 400, well,
it produces interesting grains to say the least:

at 100%

raytoei
ps. i bought pq developer in ruby, small bottle under 10sgd, i think they have run out of this paper developer.
pps. development is like 15ml for 2 rolls at 6.30mins at 30c.

 

[raytoei]

lualua,

i usually get spots as reticulation but i get this with neopan400 film and the structure is the same.
i suspect it is because i develop at a even tap water temp, at 30c. which is too hot for
pq & neopan 400 to handle. I do not get this with trix.

raytoei

 

[raytoei]

PQ Developer with Tri-X 400.
ei of 400, developed for 8m30sec

nothing spectacular i still had to do
PP to get the look i wanted.

PQ Developer with Tri-X 400.
ei of 1600, developed for 8m30sec (same as above but diff iso)

raytoei
ps. i am going to keep experimenting on trix.
next stop, ei 200 with rodinal 1+25 for 11mins@20c, aka Ralph GIbson "rich negative"