My cheapo work with my cheapo camera.
U$19 Russian FED5 Rangefinder.
http://www.photo.net/photodb/presentation.tcl?presentation_id=224778
U$19 Russian FED5 Rangefinder.
http://www.photo.net/photodb/presentation.tcl?presentation_id=224778
My test shot with a U$19 FED5B
- Thread starter whoelse
- Start date
- Status
Actually i bought the FED new. There are still alot of new FED5 in the market. Not bad for U$19 even for fun. Initially I thought the FED will be low in quality, I find that it was actually very well made. Using it was a joy, the KIEV is nice but without the cocking lever.....my thumb ouch!
The only thing missing is the 1/1000s speed. I have a EOS 50e with many accessories but I enjoy this little fellow alot. I carry a small Lowe bag like those for digital camer, all I need to bring is this little fellow. I can go everywhere with it. I like to shoot in low light and with a ISO400 film, I can handheld the camera at 1/60 no problem without any 3 legged creature.
These shot I took using the Kodak Gold 400 and I was quite dissappointed with the color comparing with Fuji. Also, so much grainner...
Nevertheless, the great Industar 61/LD still manage to suck up vivid color (too bad if I had use a better negative). The print was so much better than what you see on the photosite especially the lousy flatbed scanner I used.
After using these meterless rangefinder, I realised we usually work within 5 common lighting condition Sunny/Cloudy/Overcast/Shaded/Sunset, I no longer need to use a lightmeter. Our eyes are more sensitive to lights then electronics and no longer need to "fool" the camera for exposure because these meter usually are "fool" by our mother natual in these difficult condition.
I no longer feel like I'm taking photo but creating pictures. Ofcos, I have alot to learn and most of my shots are "anyhow shot one" comparing with many others here.
However, I do feel many who venture into Photography has lose the old art of teaching. For example DOF, shutter/exposure, composition etc. With technology today and image editing, many of the great looking picture we see today are not created by nature but edited.
Many dull looking or even uninteresting pictures can be enhanced and edited to look like PRO. To me, these are not the art of photography but art of image editing. Saw to say for people what wanted to learn Photography.
The only thing missing is the 1/1000s speed. I have a EOS 50e with many accessories but I enjoy this little fellow alot. I carry a small Lowe bag like those for digital camer, all I need to bring is this little fellow. I can go everywhere with it. I like to shoot in low light and with a ISO400 film, I can handheld the camera at 1/60 no problem without any 3 legged creature.
These shot I took using the Kodak Gold 400 and I was quite dissappointed with the color comparing with Fuji. Also, so much grainner...
Nevertheless, the great Industar 61/LD still manage to suck up vivid color (too bad if I had use a better negative). The print was so much better than what you see on the photosite especially the lousy flatbed scanner I used.
After using these meterless rangefinder, I realised we usually work within 5 common lighting condition Sunny/Cloudy/Overcast/Shaded/Sunset, I no longer need to use a lightmeter. Our eyes are more sensitive to lights then electronics and no longer need to "fool" the camera for exposure because these meter usually are "fool" by our mother natual in these difficult condition.
I no longer feel like I'm taking photo but creating pictures. Ofcos, I have alot to learn and most of my shots are "anyhow shot one" comparing with many others here.
However, I do feel many who venture into Photography has lose the old art of teaching. For example DOF, shutter/exposure, composition etc. With technology today and image editing, many of the great looking picture we see today are not created by nature but edited.
Many dull looking or even uninteresting pictures can be enhanced and edited to look like PRO. To me, these are not the art of photography but art of image editing. Saw to say for people what wanted to learn Photography.
One word: Stunning. Colours are so rich! Lovely. Framing leads me into the picture.
I have a question though. The last 2 sunset shots are perfect. On my cameras such shots exhibit very bad flare. Is it because you are firing the camera on manual whilst I mine was on auto-exposure?
Thanks!
Alvin
I have a question though. The last 2 sunset shots are perfect. On my cameras such shots exhibit very bad flare. Is it because you are firing the camera on manual whilst I mine was on auto-exposure?
Thanks!
Alvin
L
Luv_dance
Guest
Hi
Love your pics
Where can I buy a FED ?
Thanks
Love your pics
Where can I buy a FED ?
Thanks
I
ibika
Guest
..YOU DA MAN!!!!! :thumbsup: Now, that's photography... :thumbsup:
alvin said:
No lah, paiseh-paiseh.
But I find the Industar 61/LD is very good in sucking color.
It is touted as the best Russian-made LTM lens ever, the rare-earth impregnated Industar-61 L/D came standard on the FED 4 and 5.
Abt flare, the coating on the Industar 61 LD cope quite nicely and I even shoot against the Sun a few time. Otherwise, cup yr hand and hold the len to use as a shade. Obviously, can buy a len hood.
Also, I think if you are on auto-expose, many camera meter will take the brightest spot which is probably the sun or the ray itself as middle grey so many of this shoot will turn out underexpose and many photographers have to aga-aga fool the camera for 1 ot 2 stop. For manual, you adjust nothing. Look at the surrounding light condition and you take everything with the same exposure mode. Anyway, most of the time we only use around 5 lighting condition. For night exposure that simple because it's no right or wrong. Just a matter of how you want to create the mood with different exposure.
Why I can take without any meter? ->
http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
Luv_dance said:Hi
Love your pics
Where can I buy a FED ?
Thanks
Thanks for your compliment.
Here -> http://search.ebay.com/search/searc...w&ht=1&sosortproperty=1&from=R10&BasicSearch=
Brand new, I pay U$19. Box, Genuine Leather Case, Len, Body.
Shipping is U$12-15 (Dun pay U$20, too much)
US$19 = S$33
US$15 = S$26
For a wonder full camera, Classic Leica concept design. But ofcos it's not $3000 camera lah. One thing about classic design is that u must cock the shutter before you change the shutter speed. This is becos unlike electronics that use a logic/program to control the speed, mech. use gear and wheel. It's basically nothing wrong just that they are mech. just like any mech, design to function like this.
For electronics camera, once the electronics circuit is obselete, you cannot get parts. Mech. have no such problem. If you do these camera on the right way, it probably stay with you for the next 20yrs. You can see on ebay these camera can be like 40-50yrs old and still working. Many complain we see are people who never use this before and spoil them while blame it on the QC etc. Why would something work for 20yrs and damage upon handle with the buyer? Misused. We take it for granted. Why I know? Cos I screw a KIEV 4M before for "experimenting".
I also find the FED5B function very well, smooth operation and handsome looking. Many said they are ugly. (??!) --FED5B produce up to thr 90's and plenty out there so get them new.
Try finding a working 50yrs old Nikon or Canon and see how.
Hi
US $19??!!! that's definitely cheaper than my Phenix manual SLR I bought in China (with 50mm lens) for about SGD120 and i tot i had a good deal!
glad to see you making good use of "old" rangefinders in a modern AF / digital world and discovering the charms and practicalities of doing so. Some just *don't* get it
US $19??!!! that's definitely cheaper than my Phenix manual SLR I bought in China (with 50mm lens) for about SGD120
and i tot i had a good deal!glad to see you making good use of "old" rangefinders in a modern AF / digital world and discovering the charms and practicalities of doing so. Some just *don't* get it
Red Dawn said:Hi
US $19??!!! that's definitely cheaper than my Phenix manual SLR I bought in China (with 50mm lens) for about SGD120
glad to see you making good use of "old" rangefinders in a modern AF / digital world and discovering the charms and practicalities of doing so. Some just *don't* get it
Yeah
I make myself a little project today to carry it with me to work.
I'm going to walk around everyday evening after work and do some shooting.
If you see a guy with a weird looking camera, that's probably me.
Haha, if so come say hello to me hahaa.
Hi again!
Ok so probably it's the wrong camera auto settings causing the flare. Haiz. Anyway, thanks for the link! However, do you follow the settings exactly the same? Reason being I've played with that exposure meter before, but have not shot film with it. Comparing it side by side to my Dynax 5's manual metering, the camera will tell me something else.
For example, in my room at night with the lights on, I use EV 5 "Night home interiors, average light. School or church auditoriums. Subjects lit by campfires or bonfires."
With ISO 400 film I go down the chart to EV 5 and for 1/30 second shutter speed it's F2.0. Using my Dynax 5 + 50mm F1.7, with the above settings (F2, 1/30 and ISO @ 400) the meter shows 1.5 stops under.
I guess I'll load slides the next round instead of b&w and play around with this full manual mode...now using a Minolta 7s, main pro for using it 'cause it got full mechanical manual mode. No batteries required! :blah:
Ok so probably it's the wrong camera auto settings causing the flare. Haiz. Anyway, thanks for the link! However, do you follow the settings exactly the same? Reason being I've played with that exposure meter before, but have not shot film with it. Comparing it side by side to my Dynax 5's manual metering, the camera will tell me something else.
For example, in my room at night with the lights on, I use EV 5 "Night home interiors, average light. School or church auditoriums. Subjects lit by campfires or bonfires."
With ISO 400 film I go down the chart to EV 5 and for 1/30 second shutter speed it's F2.0. Using my Dynax 5 + 50mm F1.7, with the above settings (F2, 1/30 and ISO @ 400) the meter shows 1.5 stops under.
I guess I'll load slides the next round instead of b&w and play around with this full manual mode...now using a Minolta 7s, main pro for using it 'cause it got full mechanical manual mode. No batteries required! :blah:
Why not shoot with 2 different settings and see? Negative and push up or down to 4 stops by the lab and still produce good exposure. Slide is about 2 stops max. Shoot and see let me know 
40-60mm still consider normal len. A bit different and most likely walk nearer or further make a little different and almost not much. Lower then that make more dif or telephoto like 135 will compress the background.
Nv seem to find any dif. for my 50 and 55mm. Maybe you more advance lah.
But I think 50mm on digital is different then the normal non-digital 50mm. I am not sure also.
Also, for sunrise, if you shoot with 2 stops underexpose it will look like sunset. If you shoot sunset overexpose 2 stops, it will look like sunrise most of the time. Different exposure doesn't always mean wrong but create different mood.
While shooting Neon or street if you overexpose 1 stop from what your meter suggest, it usually look better. Need to try and experience and you will know what to set you see. Nothing secretive, just shoot more
let me know 40-60mm still consider normal len. A bit different and most likely walk nearer or further make a little different and almost not much. Lower then that make more dif or telephoto like 135 will compress the background.
Nv seem to find any dif. for my 50 and 55mm. Maybe you more advance lah.
But I think 50mm on digital is different then the normal non-digital 50mm. I am not sure also.
Also, for sunrise, if you shoot with 2 stops underexpose it will look like sunset. If you shoot sunset overexpose 2 stops, it will look like sunrise most of the time. Different exposure doesn't always mean wrong but create different mood.
While shooting Neon or street if you overexpose 1 stop from what your meter suggest, it usually look better. Need to try and experience and you will know what to set you see. Nothing secretive, just shoot more
Thanks mate! I think i'll try a few roll of slides. Any recommendations for slide film? Supposed I want to use it for general purpose, and that I will have human subjects. What do you think of Sensia? I have tried the 400 iso variant but I didn't print out or use those magnifying glasses so can't really tell if it's good or bad. I do have a budget lightbox though.
About the focal length, it's probably me being sensitive. 'cause when i use the camera for "serious stuff" (e.g. sunday got party! yee haw!) anything more than 50mm usually useless. for me.
About the focal length, it's probably me being sensitive. 'cause when i use the camera for "serious stuff" (e.g. sunday got party! yee haw!) anything more than 50mm usually useless. for me.
Sensia is very good! But why you want to use ISO 400??? I use ISO 100 for daylight, cheaper and finer grain. But since I usually shoot low light condition with a light outfit which make me less look like a "photographer", I use ISO400 for that. Also becos for sunset or immediate after sunset or neon street I can still shoot f5.6/f8/f11 at 1/60-30 without any need of a tripod
Have you have of the 80% rule?
-- 80% of award-winning photograph are produce with normal prime len.
Have you have of the 80% rule?
-- 80% of award-winning photograph are produce with normal prime len.
Hi!
Well to date... most of the stuff I shoot is not in broad daylight. In fact the most common film i use would probably be press 800. No, i'm not pro, just following all the other pros here lol. All the stuff I take happens at weak lighting conditions. (e.g. last I went thailand, the lighting indoors was "fantastic". iso800, F4, 1/30, no flash allowed. :angry: Yeah my lens widest is F4.)
Wah you are very pro man! No lah my photos are not for competitions. Just keepsake. But I do wanna improve my photo taking skills :blah: 50mm prime? Yeah baby i use that very frequently on my slr nowadays, but at times, I wish i had a 24mm.... but (so many buts) I went RF 'cause it's attracts less attraction. (Just a few days back I was at taka with my 717 and some ppl thought i was a reporter! DUH.)
Looks like after I pass konota my tmax i'll get some sensia to trial run the exposure guide. Already got it printed up :bsmilie:
Well to date... most of the stuff I shoot is not in broad daylight. In fact the most common film i use would probably be press 800. No, i'm not pro, just following all the other pros here lol. All the stuff I take happens at weak lighting conditions. (e.g. last I went thailand, the lighting indoors was "fantastic". iso800, F4, 1/30, no flash allowed. :angry: Yeah my lens widest is F4.)
Wah you are very pro man! No lah my photos are not for competitions. Just keepsake. But I do wanna improve my photo taking skills :blah: 50mm prime? Yeah baby i use that very frequently on my slr nowadays, but at times, I wish i had a 24mm.... but (so many buts) I went RF 'cause it's attracts less attraction. (Just a few days back I was at taka with my 717 and some ppl thought i was a reporter! DUH.)
Looks like after I pass konota my tmax i'll get some sensia to trial run the exposure guide. Already got it printed up :bsmilie:
KIEV shutter sound like "coo-oop", FED5B sound like "clack" loudness wise is comparable.
KIEV rangefinder is larger so easier to see.
FED5B has eyewear correction so I can view without wearing glasses.
KIEV is easir to focus using the "Contax hold" method but I find my middle finger too short
FED5B advance level is good! KIEV advance knob = sore thumb.
Setting shutter speed is easier on the FED5B too being smaller. The KIEV shutter is on the cocking knob so have to grab the big knob and lift and turn to the appropriate speed. FEB5B is easy, thumb and index finger will do.
FED5B film counter is nicer then KIEV. Wearing the KIEV around your neck look cools. Very classy being a Contax design.
I show my FED5B to 2 friends, same reaction : "wow! nice build, heavy and substantial, cool!"
The Industar 61 LD len on the FED5B is really good! I just shoot another roll of Fuji400 (argh...why not the 100 for finer grain), collecting the print tomorrow from my same old lousy neighbourhood lab. Will post some here after a scan some sample.
The million dollar question : Which one would I prefer to use?
The FEB5B!
Although I have no reservation to shoot with either one, everything on the FED5B is enjoyable. Only thing I miss on the FED5B is 1/1000.
KIEV rangefinder is larger so easier to see.
FED5B has eyewear correction so I can view without wearing glasses.
KIEV is easir to focus using the "Contax hold" method but I find my middle finger too short
FED5B advance level is good! KIEV advance knob = sore thumb.
Setting shutter speed is easier on the FED5B too being smaller. The KIEV shutter is on the cocking knob so have to grab the big knob and lift and turn to the appropriate speed. FEB5B is easy, thumb and index finger will do.
FED5B film counter is nicer then KIEV. Wearing the KIEV around your neck look cools. Very classy being a Contax design.
I show my FED5B to 2 friends, same reaction : "wow! nice build, heavy and substantial, cool!"
The Industar 61 LD len on the FED5B is really good! I just shoot another roll of Fuji400 (argh...why not the 100 for finer grain), collecting the print tomorrow from my same old lousy neighbourhood lab. Will post some here after a scan some sample.
The million dollar question : Which one would I prefer to use?
The FEB5B!
Although I have no reservation to shoot with either one, everything on the FED5B is enjoyable. Only thing I miss on the FED5B is 1/1000.
- Status
