must fly: fly or dragonfly?
- Thread starter seafone
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Your sensor needs cleaning
Below the left wings.
IMHO DA21 is not ideal for macro:nono:
For dragon fly needs f8-f13 and try get better focus on the eyes. (typical macro comment:bsmilie: )
If this is 1st attempt with macro then good try, if not you'll need more practise. (Same goes for myself):sweat:
Below the left wings. IMHO DA21 is not ideal for macro:nono:
For dragon fly needs f8-f13 and try get better focus on the eyes. (typical macro comment:bsmilie: )
If this is 1st attempt with macro then good try, if not you'll need more practise. (Same goes for myself):sweat:
Nice attempts, especially the dragonfly. The first one is abit messy on the background, but I guess you liked the scene, and that's why we buy our cameras for - to record the interesting and great moments
BTW, there are several versions of S1 70-210, which one(s) do you have ? Just curious. I had the second version (70-210/3.5 by Tokina, 62mm filter size, not the very first one by Kiron which has 67mm front thread size), quite a nice lens.
BTW, there are several versions of S1 70-210, which one(s) do you have ? Just curious. I had the second version (70-210/3.5 by Tokina, 62mm filter size, not the very first one by Kiron which has 67mm front thread size), quite a nice lens.
The one i have is the third version on this page: http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm
70-210mm f/2.8-f/4 62mm filter size. Remarkably sharp glass but lack of warm color rendering compared to SMC glass. I had used this lens to do some indoor concert shoot and the result really surprise me when I view it on the computer screen.
Like what Longko said, it will be good if I can stop down it a little more. But at that situation, I can't do it without the use of tripod. Having a SR body will be good in such case..
slacker: what is consider heavy PP?? is 1-pass of sharpening consider heavy? i don't know what else to do in PP, i'm not good in PP...
70-210mm f/2.8-f/4 62mm filter size. Remarkably sharp glass but lack of warm color rendering compared to SMC glass. I had used this lens to do some indoor concert shoot and the result really surprise me when I view it on the computer screen.
Like what Longko said, it will be good if I can stop down it a little more. But at that situation, I can't do it without the use of tripod. Having a SR body will be good in such case..
slacker: what is consider heavy PP?? is 1-pass of sharpening consider heavy? i don't know what else to do in PP, i'm not good in PP...
The one i have is the third version on this page: http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm
slacker: what is consider heavy PP?? is 1-pass of sharpening consider heavy? i don't know what else to do in PP, i'm not good in PP...
Congrats on your ownership of this legend that i have been reading online...
Did manage to saw one S1 in one of the shop but i never asked about it since i have got one non-S1 70-210 Vivitar to play with.
And on the PP part, i ain good in anything myself as well. Imagine i do not even understand what USM means till longko enlightened me on it.
Just so amazed by the sharpness on the pattern of the dragonfly's wing that make me thought you might drive the sharpness to the max when you PP. Now with this picture, you make me truely understand the legend... Thanks man!
I'll love to see the one from Kiron. It is said to be one of the best zoom lens made.
To get this sharpness on the wings, you'll need to align the lens parallel to the wings. IMHO (based on macro photography), when you do this, the dragonfly will flat. But that's just me
And on the PP part, i ain good in anything myself as well. Imagine i do not even understand what USM means till longko enlightened me on it.
To get this sharpness on the wings, you'll need to align the lens parallel to the wings. IMHO (based on macro photography), when you do this, the dragonfly will flat. But that's just me
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