Mamiya RZ67 Pro using Mamiya RB67 Polaroid Back

[Scandiacus]

Can it be done? I've read up a bit regarding polaroid on RZ67/RB67 and there seems to be something about G adapter and NBC back and stuff.

Can the Mamiya RZ67 be fitted with the typical RB67 polaroid back? Thanks in advance!

 

[anuar ahmad]

NO.

see here http://www.reznitsky.info/Mamiya/Comchart.htm

I'm using one with a P adapter for my RB67 Pro SD

 

[Scandiacus]

NO.

see here http://www.reznitsky.info/Mamiya/Comchart.htm

I'm using one with a P adapter for my RB67 Pro SD

Thanks for the chart, was confused with all the P adapter and G adapter stuff.

Is anyone using the RZ67 with the NPC Polaroid Back? From what I know about it is that the image will come out off centered, with only one side having the black border.

Are there any other difference compared to the original RZ67 polaroid back?

 

[garychew]

Hi Anuar, Wanted to check with you, 180mm for rz67 is good for portrait?

 

[anuar ahmad]

Hi Anuar, Wanted to check with you, 180mm for rz67 is good for portrait?

Hi Gary,

Depends on how you define portraits.
There are photographer who preferred 90mm ~ 350mm.

However, these are my preferences.
For head and shoulder, 180mm is good albeit you have to work at short lens to subject distance ie. approx. 1 ~ 1.5m
I prefer to use 250mm as it gives me more room to adjust my lighting and I work at a longer distance ie. approx. 2.2m.
350mm a bit too long.
For "environmental portraits" I'll use 127mm.
I find 180mm is also good for head to mid-thigh shots.

 

[garychew]

Thanks Anuar, BTW, which lightmeter do you recommend?

 

[anuar ahmad]

Thanks Anuar, BTW, which lightmeter do you recommend?

It's not a recommendation but I use these humble Minolta meters alternately.
These meters can measure ambient, flash light or a combination of both and can give average reading of multiple measurements.




I used a Gossen meter when I started photography when I was 10yrs old as it does not require any battery and it measures very slowly.
Moving on to the Minoltas after I started working and began exploring with studio flash setup and macro.
It gives instant reading for any measurement.

Been using the Autometer IIIF since '84 and it's has been reliable.
It's measurement is spot on for both ambient and flash mode.
I tested the measured exposure with Kodachrome25/KM25 (ISO 25) back then.
However the single 4LR44(not 4x LR44) battery type has been an issue as it is not readily available everywhere.

A couple of years after Konica acquired part of Minolta, bought the Autometer VF.
I've fine tuned it to read -0.5 EV to give identical reading with the IIIF.
The good thing about the VF is that it uses a single AA battery and can measure corded or non-corded flash.

After all these years, the IIIF still gives good measurement.

 

[garychew]

Thanks so much for the details info, appreciate. Saw someone sell Minolta Autometer VF in CS, will get it! Thanks Anuar! do you have facebook page or insta to follow?

 

[anuar ahmad]

Can it be done? I've read up a bit regarding polaroid on RZ67/RB67 and there seems to be something about G adapter and NBC back and stuff.

Can the Mamiya RZ67 be fitted with the typical RB67 polaroid back? Thanks in advance!

Hi Scandiacus,

With my Mamiya Polaroid Back and P Adapter, the image is masked on the left and right...see below.
The mounted P Adapter in about 3mm thick where it meets the RB67 if you are to look from the top.
The adapter for the NPC Back is thicker...google and you can see it.
I have not owned any NPC back for Mamiya but I do have one for my Nikon F3.
It has a piece of thick glass over where the image is projected.
It could be the same for NPC Polaroid back for Mamiya.

Thanks so much for the details info, appreciate. Saw someone sell Minolta Autometer VF in CS, will get it! Thanks Anuar! do you have facebook page or insta to follow?

Hi Gary,

Unfortunately I do not have any specifically for photos.
Most of my upload in flickr & FB are not sorted by category.
Are meant for comment, showing others how I do it and sharing photos of former school/classmate and families.
All other photos, digital and scanned negative, are saved on my HDD and mirrored on home NAS and back-up on ssd/dvd or printed large typically 8x12 or larger up to 16x24, bonding some of them to canvas.
I do not shoot slides nowadays.
I could hold a solo photo exhibition with all the photo I've taken all these years...

Anyway, here is an image recovered from the polaroid negative snapped with a digicam over my comp monitor.
My scanner was down so improvised this method.
Image recovered by bleaching away the matt surface of the polaroid throwaway peel off with bathroom bleach.
It was shot with the 127mm K/L lens up close for this boy.

Used generic Windows Paint application and inverted the negative to get the positive.

 

[Scandiacus]

Got myself a polaroid back (non NPC) in good condition! Thanks everyone for the feedback and knowledge sharing!

 

[garychew]

Hi Anuar, recently i try to bleach the polaroid negative (follow the instructuon from youtube) after i bleach and let the water flow on it, it seem like the non bleach bleach part have some chemical (sticky green) fall off. is it normal? thanks

gary

 

[anuar ahmad]

Hi Anuar, recently i try to bleach the polaroid negative (follow the instructuon from youtube) after i bleach and let the water flow on it, it seem like the non bleach bleach part have some chemical (sticky green) fall off. is it normal? thanks

gary

Normally I would tape the edges to a PVC, glass or arcrylic board first prior to bleaching to preserve the negative image from being washed off by the bleach.
After the matt black stuff has been bleached, i'll remove the tape and proceed to wash it like normal film with running water and lightly run my fingers over to remove any residue on both sides.
The gooey green stuff is the image developer, processor and fixer that is spread evenly by the rollers over the negative when we pulled it out.