Octarine is correct in that condensation works one way and that occurs when you go from a cold environment into a warmer one and not the other way around.
Also regarding why some people encounter long period for condensation to dissipate while others takes shorter, a few factors come into play: fyi
1) The longer you stay outside and colder the temperature, the longer it will take for condensation to dissipate.
2) For indoor warmer environment, same thing, the level of warmth plays a part in how fast or slow it takes to dissipate.
3) The amount of glass plays a part. For example the big thick elements like my 14-24mm UW front elements or my 24-70mm. It can take a while after being in the cold slung on my body. I has a kit lens on my old D70 and it would thaw really quick as the glass elements were much smaller and len body wasa more plastic then metal parts.
4) The more metal components versus plastic polymer in your gear also plays a part. In conducting temperature changes and dissipation. I have ever shot without my glove and holding my D300 or D4 which has more metal parts, it was like holding ice but it kept on working. My D70 ws not so bad as the body was made of plastic polymer.
The good news is, condensation does not usually damage your gear as technically the product designers factor that in to a certain tolerance level. I have gotten to about -16 degree for about 6 hours straight and had no problems. Though one time out shooting with my old D70 the Eiffel Tower in the night at -10 degree, my camera stopped working suddenly after a whole day/night out in the cold snow-less winter air. Battery was fine. Once back in the hotel and left to thaw, it boot up again. Never had an issue after that because every few hours or so, I would put it inside my bag out of the cold. Never had a problem with the camera even after a couple more winter trips before I retired it.
One trick I have tried BUT I have to declare I did this at my own risk on my own gear so i am not saying you should do this. I needed to use my camera gear indoor fast and did not have time to let it thaw as the gear was really cold and the condensation was forming water droplets on the element. Too blur to shooting indoor. I used the hotel hair dryer set to warm and with the nozzle at a distance blow warm air over my trinity gear

. About 10-15 mins, I was out the door to a reception.
Also remember never to remove your lens from your DSLR body once you get into a warm environment. This just might encourage condensation to start on the inside of your mirror flap, sensor area and rear end of your lens where exposed electrical contacts resides !
For small cameras like PnS and small bodied DSLR with small kit lens, try to hide it in your jacket (with your body heat) or put back in your weather proof bag when not shooting to help keep the temperature from dropping too low on your gear.
If you are outside and it is snowing and you managed to get snow flicks on your gears, they loo like white dust flakes on your gear but due to the cold they don't melt even as they clink to your camera but once you get indoor where it is warmer, they very quickly melt. If your camera gear is weather proof.. that is fine but if it is not, they become water on your gear and might get into tiny joints with no seal. So just stand outside and use your air puffer to blow the snow flicks off your gear before going indoor.