GF1, G1 or Ep1 for Rf lenses...?
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clubgrit
Senior Member
My head says G1/GH1, but my heart prefers RF shape. Only 2 have the shape of RFs, GF1 and E-P1.
"Depending on the lenses, actual focal range may slightly differ from that displayed on the lens." Needs more work for zone focusing.
GF1 easier to focus manually, very good screen, slightly lighter than E-P1.
Rangefinder, famous for use in available darkness ... E-P1, 1 more button to press to focus manually, but one gets used to it. Firmware to make it function like GF1 may or may not happen. Excellent ISO, AWB, in-built image stabilization so RF or any other manual lenses benefits, even at f/1. Softer and quieter shutter.
I go for E-P1 ... YMMV, we all have different preferences.
Compatibility (Leical lenses):
http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/dsc/connect/mrma.html
.
"Depending on the lenses, actual focal range may slightly differ from that displayed on the lens." Needs more work for zone focusing.
GF1 easier to focus manually, very good screen, slightly lighter than E-P1.
Rangefinder, famous for use in available darkness ... E-P1, 1 more button to press to focus manually, but one gets used to it. Firmware to make it function like GF1 may or may not happen. Excellent ISO, AWB, in-built image stabilization so RF or any other manual lenses benefits, even at f/1. Softer and quieter shutter.
I go for E-P1 ... YMMV, we all have different preferences.
Compatibility (Leical lenses):
http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/dsc/connect/mrma.html
.
Last edited:
daddyhobby
New Member
I decide on EP1 not only for the retro look but button layout.... its cleaner IMO.
The body IS is also an important point to consider especially on RF lens. After I got an ep1, i went on with a 50 cron :devil: cannot resist ...... here a pic of the setup :-
The body IS is also an important point to consider especially on RF lens. After I got an ep1, i went on with a 50 cron :devil: cannot resist ...... here a pic of the setup :-
third3rdwheel
New Member
I have tried some of my Leica lenses on the G1. Was quite disappointed with the quality - I suspect these lenses work best on Leica cameras. That's my experience.....
Probably just going to use my Lumix G1 with Lumix lenses for everyday shots ....:sweat:
Hi
The original G1 or the GH1 is probably more suitable for RF lenses as they at least have a viewfinder (even if what u're seeing is really pixels) allowing you the use of the faster lenses with some sort of precision eg the 35 f1.4, 28 f2 etc
Unless you're prepared to scale focus or use hyperfocal shooting exclusively (and that works well for landscapes, street photography), I feel it's ridiculous and comical to try focusing a RF lens holding out the camera at arm's length and trying to stabilize oneself for a proper shot during a dynamic situation eg people at social events etc.... besides I've tried seen the LCD of the EP1 and it's a coarse low res screen which doesn't help in manual focusing....
For the GF1 or the EP1 I would probably be better to stick to their stock AF primes eg the 20 f1.7 or the 17 f2.8.... the AF would allow you to use the camera in a fast and fluid way, utilizing the rear LCD as a framing guide.
IMHO only, of course
The original G1 or the GH1 is probably more suitable for RF lenses as they at least have a viewfinder (even if what u're seeing is really pixels) allowing you the use of the faster lenses with some sort of precision eg the 35 f1.4, 28 f2 etc
Unless you're prepared to scale focus or use hyperfocal shooting exclusively (and that works well for landscapes, street photography), I feel it's ridiculous and comical to try focusing a RF lens holding out the camera at arm's length and trying to stabilize oneself for a proper shot during a dynamic situation eg people at social events etc.... besides I've tried seen the LCD of the EP1 and it's a coarse low res screen which doesn't help in manual focusing....
For the GF1 or the EP1 I would probably be better to stick to their stock AF primes eg the 20 f1.7 or the 17 f2.8.... the AF would allow you to use the camera in a fast and fluid way, utilizing the rear LCD as a framing guide.
IMHO only, of course
Well... if you are thinking of going slow and do some manual focusing work, then, the G1 is a more appropriate body to use. GF1 & slicker & cooler & does have a viewfinder option, but have not seen the quality yet. And with the viewfinder option, I think it will be at least SGD300 more. That makes the camera a little pricy with the electronic viewfinder... In my own opinion.
The G1's viewfinder by far is one of the best electronic viewfinder I've used.
Best focal length to use on M4/3 sensor is 40mm, again, that's my own preference. Which makes it a short tele / portrait lens. Anything longer is a little too long for my liking.
The G1's viewfinder by far is one of the best electronic viewfinder I've used.
Best focal length to use on M4/3 sensor is 40mm, again, that's my own preference. Which makes it a short tele / portrait lens. Anything longer is a little too long for my liking.
clubgrit
Senior Member
hookonclassic
Senior Member
I have a E-P1 with M to M4/3 adapter. Beside the smaller outfit and look. I fully agree with Chiif, focusing with electronic VF is much easier.
My two cents.
I rather suspect that for many of us, myself included, manual focusing on a moving subject is very much a touch and go affair. That's why there were precious few action shots before the advent of AF.
I don't think much has changed in terms of manual focusing skills today. If at all, the all too prevalent dependence on AF augers worse today. In short, I really don't think either the GF-1 or the EP-1 is particularly suited for action shots, certainly on RF lenses.
For non-action shots, I personally perceive no advantage to the evf. If at all, composing and focusing on live view on wide angle to portrait lenses may be preferable. Bigger picture to focus with, focusing with binocular vision and actual picture (including DOF, focus point and colour) can be seen before the shot is taken.
Bracing a viewfinder equipped camera on one's forehead provides greater stability. However, IS today helps a lot and its would appear to be a matter of our accepting a new way of holding and shooting a camera like the EP-1 to get comparable results.
The clincher, however, is that the EP-1's retro design is simply gorgeous when paired with traditional design RF lenses, especially the smaller ones by Voightlander :lovegrin:
I rather suspect that for many of us, myself included, manual focusing on a moving subject is very much a touch and go affair. That's why there were precious few action shots before the advent of AF.
I don't think much has changed in terms of manual focusing skills today. If at all, the all too prevalent dependence on AF augers worse today. In short, I really don't think either the GF-1 or the EP-1 is particularly suited for action shots, certainly on RF lenses.
For non-action shots, I personally perceive no advantage to the evf. If at all, composing and focusing on live view on wide angle to portrait lenses may be preferable. Bigger picture to focus with, focusing with binocular vision and actual picture (including DOF, focus point and colour) can be seen before the shot is taken.
Bracing a viewfinder equipped camera on one's forehead provides greater stability. However, IS today helps a lot and its would appear to be a matter of our accepting a new way of holding and shooting a camera like the EP-1 to get comparable results.
The clincher, however, is that the EP-1's retro design is simply gorgeous when paired with traditional design RF lenses, especially the smaller ones by Voightlander :lovegrin:
xylestesins
New Member
I just had my first full day with my 35mm f1.2 nokton and EP-1 combo today.
I shot an entirely holiday in "night theme" called Beijing Dreams once, and AF on my Pentax was close to impossible, so i did it all in manual, under very dim ambient lighting on the streets and stuff like that. No split screen upgrade of course. I recall then, it was hell.
If you ask me, the EP-1 is heaps better than what i was getting back then, because it shows the OOF areas so much better than the optical VF on my dslr. I can tell very well when it's sharp, and i'm no champ at manual focusing either, but still manage to get most shots in focus without the need to bracket.
I'm not saying the Panasonic cameras dont help you to focus better, but rather, Personally, i feel the EP-1 is good enough for most kinds of photography unless your focusing requires to be speedy and critical.
The noise patterns look good on the EP-1 too, and thats the kind of noise i can live with, even at 3200.
I love my EP-1, and even if you wanted to borrow me any of the Panasonic cameras for a week at no charge at all, i don't think i would be interested, even though i haven't even touched or tested them before.
I shot an entirely holiday in "night theme" called Beijing Dreams once, and AF on my Pentax was close to impossible, so i did it all in manual, under very dim ambient lighting on the streets and stuff like that. No split screen upgrade of course. I recall then, it was hell.
If you ask me, the EP-1 is heaps better than what i was getting back then, because it shows the OOF areas so much better than the optical VF on my dslr. I can tell very well when it's sharp, and i'm no champ at manual focusing either, but still manage to get most shots in focus without the need to bracket.
I'm not saying the Panasonic cameras dont help you to focus better, but rather, Personally, i feel the EP-1 is good enough for most kinds of photography unless your focusing requires to be speedy and critical.
The noise patterns look good on the EP-1 too, and thats the kind of noise i can live with, even at 3200.
I love my EP-1, and even if you wanted to borrow me any of the Panasonic cameras for a week at no charge at all, i don't think i would be interested, even though i haven't even touched or tested them before.
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