FF User of sigma 12-24 please advise me.


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I've not tried those. The filters with the holder will have to be big and close enough to the front element in order to avoid vignettings.

Ya, that means can't use the Cokin-type holder as that works with filter thread. Time to DIY liow :)
 

Ya, that means can't use the Cokin-type holder as that works with filter thread. Time to DIY liow :)

you DIY?can show me? or just handheld a big piece of Lee filter?
 

Ya, that means can't use the Cokin-type holder as that works with filter thread. Time to DIY liow :)

In fact, i still don't see a need to use any sort of filters with this lens.
 

you DIY?can show me? or just handheld a big piece of Lee filter?

No, not yet. I would love to use GND but don't think can handheld unlike others. Maybe a frame and some sticky tapes ? :)
 

In fact, i still don't see a need to use any sort of filters with this lens.

I agree with you to some extent. The colour is rich and under good sunlight, I even thought it has a built-in CPL. However, would certainly like to have the option of using a GND under certain circumstances. I got a P cokin-type wide holder but vignetting is still very evident :(
 

I agree with you to some extent. The colour is rich and under good sunlight, I even thought it has a built-in CPL. However, would certainly like to have the option of using a GND under certain circumstances. I got a P cokin-type wide holder but vignetting is still very evident :(

In a nutshell, this lens is not suitable to have any front filters, hence its design. That's why they gave a slot at the rear for gelatin ones.
 

yeah.lucky work end early today.got sometime to do some field testing.have to close back hood after shoot.quite troublesome to remove hood,see got things to shoot/compose and close back. I went to buy a cheap filter to replace lens cap. So now i just bring up see, if ok remove hood and shoot.
 

yeah.lucky work end early today.got sometime to do some field testing.have to close back hood after shoot.quite troublesome to remove hood,see got things to shoot/compose and close back. I went to buy a cheap filter to replace lens cap. So now i just bring up see, if ok remove hood and shoot.

Usually don't have to keep putting back the hood unless have drizzles or in sandy areas. A lens like this with protruding front element being prone to dusts is normal.

For FF cams, the usable range with the front cap ring is from 20mm so for me, everytime shoot just remove the whole thing, unless want to create 'circular fisheye' effect.
 

I did some minor testing. maybe not as idea but it does shows that that it is weak in flare. contrast and colour is fine for me. shot are all taken ard 5pm.

Sharpness i think it is gd as we go up to f11. center sharpness is definitely decent to me. but need to be careful with direct bright sources like the sun or spotlight.

Please take a look. too lazy to post on CS 1 by 1.was thinking of just send to sigma to calibrate, but i think the results are decent. what do you fellow users think?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kiatsphotography/sets/72157622368586002/
 

agreed Sig 1224 is weak in flare. highlight details also get washed out more easily. Flare from oblique sources is worst. Can see the shape of the aperture blades. But into the light flare is controlled.

Unless AF accuracy super off, I think it is waste of time to calibrate cos the wide-angle ( smaller subject detail ) and smaller aperture of 1224 already makes AF slower in dimmer light. For high contrast brighter subject, DOF covers up.

And because the subject details is small, frequently the camera AF will focus on adjacent subject ( AF focus point covers too much ). Especially if subject is moving slightly. Yet all my group shots come out okay cos the DOF covers up
 

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Flare is inevitable for these kind of lenses due to the construction of it and the inclusion of the fixed short hood. Mine's sharp from f/8 and only slightly soft below f/5.6.

Love this lens to bits! :lovegrin:
 

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