DOF & Hyperfocal Distance


raytoei

Senior Member
hi,

i am sure everyone knows this but i thought it would be good to
post this for those coming from the autofocus world.

Here's a method for ensuring that objects are sharply
focused without actually having to refocus everytime an
object moves.

Answer: Depth of Field & Hyperfocal distance.

This is very suitable to street shooting, where objects are always
on the move, and yet, there is a range of distances
where the objects are.

Here's an example, say you decide on f8 aperture,
and you spot a subject at 3m out. Most of us will
adjust the focus ring and twitch it around until the
rangefinder patch is aligned.

here how it looks like on most rf lens.

hyper-0.jpg


here's an explanation. the white box shows:
8, that's the aperture.
3, that's the distance in metres.

the pink box shows alot of details too,
the low ring does the DOF markers, "16 11 8 | 4 2 * 2 4 | 8 11 16"
The aperture chosen is f8, looking at the distance scale
above the DOF market( f8 on the left and right of the DOF marker), shows
that at f8, the distance that is in focus is about 1.75m to 10m.

So basically, at f8, and the lens is focused is at 3m, anything from
1.75m to 10m is also in focus.

Here's another example, say the object is at infinity, say 20m out.
focusing on the lens, produces something like this:

hyper-1.jpg


this tells us that at f8, if the lens is focused at infinity (centre),
the closest focus is 4m ( the left DOF marker f8, between 3-5m)
ie. anything from 4m to Infinity is also in focus.

A better way to achieve the last example would be to use
hyperfocal distance to focus:

hyper-2.jpg


I put the aperture on f8.
Next I put the infinity marker on the focus ring to rest
ontop of the f8 on the DOF marker (see yellow ring).
On the left side, the closest focus is around 2.2-2.4m

this means that when I focus this way, at f8, anything from
2.2/2.4m all the way to infinity is in focus. which is a tighter
focus than the previous example where it is 4m onwards.

At the most extreme, if i put the aperture at f16, and put the
infinity marker on the rightmost f16 mark on the dof market,
then anything from 1.1/1.2m to infinity is in focus.

hyper-3.jpg


of course, at f8 or f16, the corresponding shutter speed
will have to be adjusted as well.

cheers!

raytoei
 

In short, "F8 and be there" means:

50mm lens - hard to hyperfocus, I always need to manual
35mm lens - anything beyond 2.3m is in focus
28mm lens - anything beyond 1.5m is in focus
21mm lens - anything beyond 1m is in focus

For 21, 28 and 35, if your positioning is good, its basically Point and Shoot
 

Great info Felix! This works extremely well and is infinitely useful once you get it down.

What I did was to practise gauging distances.

I would walk around and estimate the distance between myself and an object.
Example:
This vertical pole in front of me, I estimate it to be 1.5m.
I'd then set the focus to 1.5m on my lens and check if I got it correctly.
If it's correct, yay. If not, I'd learn and adapt.
Repeat for various distances.

Do this enough times and you'd find that you get increasingly accurate.
When you get it right the feeling is damn shiok too.
 

I use my arms length as measurement of distance.
 

I didn't know this, good info, should become sticky. Thanks Raytoei.
 

great short write-up... hope you don't mind if i link it from the "so you want to RF..." thread.

:thumbsup:
 

:thumbsup:

Great to see it here. I'm new to RF and learning to get the hang of using these 2 methods for focusing - picked it up from trawling the net :)
 

Good stuff Felix!

Just to add, when the lens is set to hyperfocal or in zone focus, the images on the focus patch through the viewfinder *usually* may not be aligned... not to worry about this especially if its the maiden attempt... what I can say is have faith in the technique and once mastered, I can bet you it'll be faster than any AF in this world!
 

I find it's also good practice pre-estimate the target distance (e.g. target is 2m away) then set the lens to that approximate distance before putting camera to eye level. That way you can more quickly get the right focus instead of having to fumble around and lose the moment.
 

Good stuff Felix!

Just to add, when the lens is set to hyperfocal or in zone focus, the images on the focus patch through the viewfinder *usually* may not be aligned... not to worry about this especially if its the maiden attempt... what I can say is have faith in the technique and once mastered, I can bet you it'll be faster than any AF in this world!
I initially had my reservations but trust me, it really works. Our M camera literally becomes a P N S!
 

Faster than PnS.

Most PnS got split second focusing time. For RF the range is already found when shutter is release. This is whole pt of range finding haha
 

Can post in RF.SG article column :)
 

irrp77, sure. pls pm me on how to do it. raytoei
 

I've also used zone/hyperfocus focusing to great advantage, which allows me to capture the moment without thinking too much, kinda P n S concept.
But bear in mind that it depends on the subject you are shooting, if it's relatively stationary then setting at f/8 or f/16 is fine, but if the subject is somewhat moving then at f/8 or f/16 may not give you that sharp an image even though you may think that everything from 1.2m to infinity is in focus. You may have to zone focus or hyperfocus at f/4 or f/5.6 to have that extra speed to ensure the subject sharp ....Just food for thought :)
 

I've also used zone/hyperfocus focusing to great advantage, which allows me to capture the moment without thinking too much, kinda P n S concept.
But bear in mind that it depends on the subject you are shooting, if it's relatively stationary then setting at f/8 or f/16 is fine, but if the subject is somewhat moving then at f/8 or f/16 may not give you that sharp an image even though you may think that everything from 1.2m to infinity is in focus. You may have to zone focus or hyperfocus at f/4 or f/5.6 to have that extra speed to ensure the subject sharp ....Just food for thought :)

... and that brings us back to what the exposure triangle is all about! :)
 

I've also used zone/hyperfocus focusing to great advantage, which allows me to capture the moment without thinking too much, kinda P n S concept.
But bear in mind that it depends on the subject you are shooting, if it's relatively stationary then setting at f/8 or f/16 is fine, but if the subject is somewhat moving then at f/8 or f/16 may not give you that sharp an image even though you may think that everything from 1.2m to infinity is in focus. You may have to zone focus or hyperfocus at f/4 or f/5.6 to have that extra speed to ensure the subject sharp ....Just food for thought :)

You can up the iso. This allows you to bring up our shutter speed to prevent motion blur etc.
 

irrp77, sure. pls pm me on how to do it. raytoei

Hi Felix

you can sent them to me like how you did for your photo essay & I'll sort it out.

I think I would need slightly bigger pictures? width 900 should be perfect & a slightly better write up or I can amend it if you dont mind.
 

okay lah... will upp on to your email account later this week. thanks !
 

Back
Top