Developing time for T-Max 400 in HC-110

[windraider]

Trying my hand at developing Tmax-400 film at room temp, ie 29C.
Any idea how long the developing time is at dilution 1:100 (Clubsnap dilution?) ?
Does streetshooter's Trix developing time of 12 mins work for Tmax 400 too?
Greatly appreciate if somebody can shed some light.

 

[Wisp]

Trying my hand at developing Tmax-400 film at room temp, ie 29C.
Any idea how long the developing time is at dilution 1:100 (Clubsnap dilution?) ?
Does streetshooter's Trix developing time of 12 mins work for Tmax 400 too?
Greatly appreciate if somebody can shed some light.

www.digitaltruth.com
select developer, film, and follow instructions.

And no, don't try that sort of thing with Tmax films. Modern mutli layered crystal bonded coating doesn't react as well as conventional emulsions.

 

[StreetShooter]

Agreed. Tmax is a lot more sensitive than Tri-X.

That's why I love Tri-X and hate Tmax!

 

[windraider]

You mean I've to develop at either 20 or 24C only?
Can't develop at rm temp?

 

[Wisp]

You mean I've to develop at either 20 or 24C only?
Can't develop at rm temp?

The recommended timings are around 20C as the ideal temps. Raise the temperature would cause a faster reaction with the emulsion to such an extent that any minute change in procedure such as time or even agitation would cause a huge swing in results.

In short, you lose control. In fact I wouldn't recommend dev ving at 24C for Tmax films. Raising the temperature may apply to pushing film since the devving time is so long, but I usually would stick to 20C. To me time is but an expense towards maximum control. I'm the type who will dev his film for 30 minutes just to achieve proper development.

 

[sriram]

I used to do it this way: Start with your developer at 22 deg C, slowly allow it to warm up to 24. Then start developing, and by the time you're done it's around 26 or 27 tops. HP5, Tri-X etc used to work very well this way.

Personally, I would run away from Tmax. I've never had good results with it. Ilford films have always been more forgiving and given me better results.

 

[windraider]

Thanks for all the responses.

Btw which Ilford b&w films are suitable for development at room temp?
Additionally can I use HC-110 to develop Ilford?

 

[Wisp]

Thanks for all the responses.

Btw which Ilford b&w films are suitable for development at room temp?
Additionally can I use HC-110 to develop Ilford?

Let me put it this way. Every film has it quirks. Ilford Delta (equiv of Tmax) are equally unforgiving as well to certain respects, such as exposure. Basically, stay away from the new tech films such as delta or tmax. Even the pros nowadays still stick to the conventional emulsions (hp5, tri x, etc) as they can pull more tricks out with them.

All developers and films are all interexchangeable. You should have noticed this in digitaltruth.com. Each different combination will give a different result, with the exception of tmax and delta (okay minus/plus grain perhaps). New tech films seemed to retain their look no matter what developer you dunk in minus a few types.


Films I would recommend:

asa 100:
ilford fp4+
kodak plus x (not available in s'pore I think)

asa 400:
Tri X
hp5

And I wouldn't recommend devving at room temperature for the above stated reasons I've given in the previous post.

Film development tanks nowadays are pretty well built (such as Jobos/patterson), and they can keep their temperature with minimal change for an extended period of time (the jobo I bought took 20 minutes for the solution to raise by 1C), so just lower your temps to 20 or 24C and process as usual. Don't worry about it. Stand dev are actually pretty advanced stuff, and usually works for certain situations (such as high contrast scenes), and with certain side effects. So I would suggest 'hit the basics' and do the standard procedure first before you try anything fancy.

 

[Patryk]

Ilford HP5 is pretty flexible in terms of the temperature u can dev it in since it has a more traditional b&w emulsion like the Kodak Tri-x... HC-110 should work fine with it at around 27-29 deg C... I cook mine in ID-11 at around 28deg C around the 12midnite time, the negs do come out pretty contrasty, with some loss of detail.. but that's how i like it since i also do my own printing..

 

[Wisp]

Ilford HP5 is pretty flexible in terms of the temperature u can dev it in since it has a more traditional b&w emulsion like the Kodak Tri-x... HC-110 should work fine with it at around 27-29 deg C... I cook mine in ID-11 at around 28deg C around the 12midnite time, the negs do come out pretty contrasty, with some loss of detail.. but that's how i like it since i also do my own printing..

What has 12 mid night got to do with timing?

 

[Patryk]

What has 12 mid night got to do with timing?

Sorry..didn't make it clear... i usually do my developing around 12 midnight or in the early morning, 2-3 am when the temp is slightly lower... good days can get the liquids down to 27 deg C.

 

[windraider]

Managed to develop my films at last:
Below are some Tmax 400 developed at 20C for 6mins

1) Chopin's Balloon

[/IMG]

2) Lanterns

[/IMG]

3) Can Lady

[/IMG]

Still trying to get the hang of it but results looks much better than the crap the photo labs churned out. Do give comments for improvements.

 

[windraider]

Additionally some TRI-X shoots developed at 29C for 13 mins, would like to know what caused the following defects & how to avoid/remedy when developing:

1) A black spot in the sky at top right/centre

[/IMG]

2) White spot on tree at bottom left

[/IMG]

Thanks in advance for advice.

 

[windraider]

One more question on films:
Is Kodax Tri-X Pan (iso400) recommended for self or room temp developing?
Have been sourcing for bulks rolls to cut down of film cost but hard to come by any.
Saw that BHPhoto had this available.
Was looking for Tri-x 400, Ruby takes orders at $52 a roll and even then says that it would take 2-3 months for an order of the film to be delivered.
Any other source of cheap b&w films?