D90 / filter doubts require help


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yes. I locked it @ F22.. which is I did also tried unlocking it and changed to F1.8 and F2.8.. but i cant lock it in @ F1.8, cos the lever cant be push back down..
erm can it? I scare I spoilt the lever.

then I just thought something wrong.. in the end, I set to AF and locked at F22 after reading the manual on the go..
which I wan to seek for ans and do not wan to make it like i wasted money ..

You cannot lock it at any other aperture numbers on the lens... only able to lock at f22.

Let me explain the 2 types of lenses that you have - The G type lens (e.g. AFS 18-105 VR lens) does not have the aperture adjustments on the lens itself. It is fully controlled from the camera body. This lens would not be usable in the older film cameras where it required aperture adjustments from the lens. The AFD 50mm f/1.8 is a lens where you can use in the older film cameras where the aperture is adjusted from the lens and not from the camera body. Hence, Nikon created this range of lenses so that they are able to work with the older film bodies and the newer DSLR bodies. The way it works on the DSLR most of the time is to lock it at f22 and adjust the aperture from the camera body.
 

2) yup, going to try it again. Erm I remember i did set to MF but still D90 blink fEE. nvm i shall try again

MF means manual focusing. It is an unrelated issue with D90 blinking fEE when you did not put the aperture at f22. MF lets you do the focusing manually, but you can still set the aperture and shutter speed from the camera body.
 

5) i dun like the jpeg quality in D90, looks dull. I just found ACR v5.1 for PS with support updated.

JPEG file formats are compressed file formats. It is unrelated to whether the picture looks dull or not. If you surf the web, you will find that pictures posted are not TIFF or RAW format, but mostly either JPEG or GIF... and they are not dull looking in anyway.

I shoot over 95% of the time in JPEG format. I would shoot in NEF/RAW format when I want to do a bit more tweaking than I normally would.

How your pictures turns out, dull or not, blur or not, etc. would generally be determined by the following factors below, which I would suggest you do reading and trying out on. Wikipedia is a good friend, and go read and try out. It is not difficult to understand. Try things out and see how your picture turns out with each change you do. A DSLR is not a PnS (point and shoot) camera, where they give you clear enough pictures with an acceptable exposure and color for the general public to accept. However, the DSLR gives you the full controls so that you can determine how you want your pictures to turn out rather than let the PnS camera decide.

The following are the areas that would generally determined how your pictures will turn out:
1. Size of aperture
2. Shutter speed
3. ISO setting
4. Exposure metering
5. Focusing
6. White balance
7. Lighting
8. Composition
 

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d90 controls the aperture of non G lenses electronically, so to do that, your aperture has to be set to f22, and the camera will automatically push the aperture lever to open the lens aperture to max..

Make that electromechanically via a lever at the lens mount. Only the aperture of PC-E lenses are controlled electronically at this point in time for Nikon.
 

The following are the areas that would generally determined how your pictures will turn out:
1. Size of aperture
2. Shutter speed
3. ISO setting
4. Exposure metering
5. Focusing
6. White balance
7. Lighting
8. Composition

by far till now, I understand 1) 2) 3) 5), but not 4) 6) 7) and 8)
need real lots of try outs

anyway, in shooting actions like casual football, fast actions
other than keeping aperture as biggest, how should the rest of the setting be?

fast shutter to freeze motion & capture the fast movements?
 

by far till now, I understand 1) 2) 3) 5), but not 4) 6) 7) and 8)
need real lots of try outs

anyway, in shooting actions like casual football, fast actions
other than keeping aperture as biggest, how should the rest of the setting be?

fast shutter to freeze motion & capture the fast movements?

Using a bigger aperture or higher ISO (well, sometimes both) will let you shoot at a faster shutter speed. If the default exposure (i.e. 0 level) seems a tad too bright for you, you can even try negative exposure bias values to eke out a bit more shutter speed to spare.
 

ok thanks quartz
I'm thinking about the ISO and the exposure issue..
as I thought smaller aperture, eventually the amt of light that allows relatively more
but at fast shutter, the amt of light been captured be limit, am i right to say such way?

i need to try to prove myself..
 

.....i need to try to prove myself..

That's the best advice you've given yourself! ;)
It's a digital camera, so it's instant results.

Mount your camera on a tripod. Place a few objects at different distances from the camera. Use manual focus to aim at a middle object (not the nearest, not the farthest).
Take a series of 10-15 photos, changing some settings (eg. aperture, ISO, white balance, exposure compensation) each time.

Review on the PC to see how each change affects the picture.
If you really analyze each photo properly, it's quite easy to learn about the basics this way.
 

just 1 thing missing and but unable to buy yet.. TRIPOD..
wanna get one but tripod is 1 bulky item ..

got cheap and good ones haha?
 

got cheap and good ones haha?

The cheap ones are not good, the good ones are not cheap.
Check the features, define what you really need (NOT want). Strike a balance in between. It's the same as for the other topics above: read, make yourself familiar with the basics, go and try out (in the shops or with friends). A tripod is the best Image Stabilizer / Vibration Reduction / Optical Stabilizer you can get. Works for all lenses, all focal length, all light and all brands :) get the right one and you don't need to change for the next years.
 

base your tripod choice on the maximum weight of the gear you own for a reasonable assessment on your needs rather than your wants.
 

possible to find 1 under 100 or at most 150?
budget constraint..
 

possible to find 1 under 100 or at most 150?

You can go to any tourist cam shop and get a lousy shaky cheap tripod for maybe 50 bucks. But these are 50 Dollars wasted. Better wait and save some money. In the meantime read up on tripods and how to determine a) what you need and b) what options / brands are there available. Search this forum and you'll find lots of information.
A possible starting point: http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=384016
 

Those reflected dots appears to be inversions (upside down) of the actual image. This might have been coming from reflected light off the sensor surface or other glass surfaces within the lens that results form re-reflected light.
 

Those reflected dots appears to be inversions (upside down) of the actual image. This might have been coming from reflected light off the sensor surface or other glass surfaces within the lens that results form re-reflected light.

the filter?
i shall try again this wkend.. at night on light targets :)
 

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