colour slide film and colour negative film
- Thread starter s0litario
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sim4nee
Senior Member
Have you seen the processed film to say that?
wootsk
Deregistered
I think you have only seen scan. Never see the actual film after processed before. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reversal_film
Try not to post such question before doing any research as it is showing how "spoon fed" you want to be.
Try not to post such question before doing any research as it is showing how "spoon fed" you want to be.
If you are talking about digital output from slide film and negative films, then slide film will give more accurate colours compared to negative film. Negative film will require a bit more DI work to correct colours.. depends on your wants and needs
wootsk
Deregistered
If you are talking about digital output from slide film and negative films, then slide film will give more accurate colours compared to negative film. Negative film will require a bit more DI work to correct colours.. depends on your wants and needs
Information about color on films should be avoided if user never tired and see actual result from developed films to scan. Because it is hard to visualise and can be misleading if they don't get it. Different films has different characteristic and the best result is only when user tried them and see the actual developed film themself. If a flatbed scan of a negative and reversal film in small reso and nicely cleaned up is shown on the monitor side by side, frankly I cannot tell the difference as the scanner profiling, the D limit of the scanner and monitor, the resolution of the scanner without a lens vs the grain would have covered everything.
Anyway, you can make it this weekend?
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Slide film = What u shoot is what you get, also known as positive. Good to beginners to learn about exposure in a harsh way and not for the faint hearted. This is the best way to learn about exposure. Slides are to be viewed projected or under a lightbox. Can be scanned or printed as well.
Negative film = More margin of error (example under and over exposure). Colour output can be subject to person who print/scan it.
There is www.google.com and www.wikipedia.com to help you with other information.
wootsk, be more patient lah, maybe TS is starter and do not even know google? No one is born all knowing and we cannot assume
Negative film = More margin of error (example under and over exposure). Colour output can be subject to person who print/scan it.
There is www.google.com and www.wikipedia.com to help you with other information.
wootsk, be more patient lah, maybe TS is starter and do not even know google? No one is born all knowing and we cannot assume
s0litario
New Member
Slide film = What u shoot is what you get, also known as positive. Good to beginners to learn about exposure in a harsh way and not for the faint hearted. This is the best way to learn about exposure. Slides are to be viewed projected or under a lightbox. Can be scanned or printed as well.
Negative film = More margin of error (example under and over exposure). Colour output can be subject to person who print/scan it.
There is www.google.com and www.wikipedia.com to help you with other information.
wootsk, be more patient lah, maybe TS is starter and do not even know google? No one is born all knowing and we cannot assume
thank you u all i know how to start...
and yes i juz started like 2 months, so thanks for the patience! i believe everyone of u has experienced this stage of newbie so i do appreciate any guidance along the way
I usually would underexpose all slides by 1/3 to 1/2 stop to get richer colours.
wootsk
Deregistered
Technically, to get more details, certain degree of underexposure is better in slides as they capture shadow better. (Do keep in mind the numbers of stops between the highlight and shadow, cause end of day your subject still matters more)
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/threads/759853-E-6-Process?p=7351901#post7351901
With correct metering and calculation, you can try to capture almost lost detail in shadow like the above till a 0.27. I gotten a fireworks shot where the level is even much lower. I don't have a densitometer like Uncle Roger, but estimated value is around 0.2. It is harder to control and result is much worst if done improperly. But if done correctly, result is very good. You have to see the actual photo through a lightbox and loupe to understand even better.
I don't really like scan, so I only got that photo where people scan for me to share. Hope it helps
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/threads/759853-E-6-Process?p=7351901#post7351901
With correct metering and calculation, you can try to capture almost lost detail in shadow like the above till a 0.27. I gotten a fireworks shot where the level is even much lower. I don't have a densitometer like Uncle Roger, but estimated value is around 0.2. It is harder to control and result is much worst if done improperly. But if done correctly, result is very good. You have to see the actual photo through a lightbox and loupe to understand even better.
I don't really like scan, so I only got that photo where people scan for me to share. Hope it helps
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Nikkornos
Senior Member
This was done using Kodak 100VS slide.
Mixed lighting so have to consider the brightest and darkest.
Scanned by Fotohub at 3Mb. Click to see original file at 1024.
This still does not look as good as actual slide thru light box.
No manipulation, straight from scan.
Mixed lighting so have to consider the brightest and darkest.
Scanned by Fotohub at 3Mb. Click to see original file at 1024.
This still does not look as good as actual slide thru light box.
No manipulation, straight from scan.
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You can just shoot as ISO 100 and meter accurately for the object. As raytoei mentioned as well, if you decided that under exposing by 1/3 stop gives you richer colour, you can under expose. But you should not over expose as a transparency, once over exposed, you cannot pull back like in digital. Highlights are clipped without details.
There are big differences. So one is that negative film shows the inverted colors, i.e. and its cheaper to get prints from, the other is that slide film is much, much sharper. When you scan the slide film, you do not see the grain, which you do in the negative film (at iso 100). There are more differences, but those I think are the most pronounced when it comes to the final product.
Cheers
Seb
Cheers
Seb
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