canonet 28 and/or konica c35 automatic
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I own a konica c35 automatic. sharp lens, nice size. it's auto exposure, so you can't control anything. but a great way to learn about framing.
i took it along on a trip to xinjiang recently and it worked really well (after i had it CLA'ed for $65...).for the canonet - i haven't used it, but a quick search says that it's made in taiwan, and auto exposure too. and weighs 550g!!! i think you should get the canonet QL17 instead.
Konica Auto S3's lens is really sharp, it's a nice small BLACK rangefinder, it's a shutter priority (without manual control) camera. If you want manual control, a similar camera would be Minolta Hi-Matic 7S II, where you can manually adjust aperture and speed.
Like Minolta Hi-Matic 7S II, the Vivitar 35ES and Revue 400SE (both shutter priority and without manual control) are also pretty similar to Konica Auto S3 but perhaps their lens could be more similar to the Minolta's. However, fear not, as they are all are good and sharp lens. All those 4 cameras originally use PX675 mercury battery. PX675 battery is same as LR44 (it's commonly available) in terms of size but with different voltage, PX675's 1.35 v as opposed to LR44's 1.5v. But in my experience, these camera should be able to tolerate with the difference. I also should mention that the Vivitar and Revue are more affordable to get than the Konica and also the Minolta. All these 4 cameras are romoured to be from the same OEM but i guess Konica's lens could be different and Minolta has manual control to differentiate from the Vivitar and Revue.
As for the Canon GIII QL17, it's shutter priority with manual control as well. It's a tad bigger than the than the 4 cameras mentioned above. An obvious advantage is, it has parallax compensation viewfinder, a features many love (but I am ok with either). It uses PX625 battery, which again like those mentioned above, is actually a mercury battery and the camera is able to tolerate on new akaline 1.5v battery. It's newer alternative battery is LR-9/PX625A, which, I foresee is getting rarer and rarer. Most of the GIII were made in Taiwan, only very few were made in Japan. One way to tell the difference is, by looking at the "GIII" badge on the front of the camera. If it's in red colour, then it's made in Taiwan, if it's black, it's from Japan. A chrome/silver GIII's price should be around Vivitar's or Revue but a black GIII cost considerably more (the same applies to most cameras that come in 2 finishes).
Among other similarly sized, fast lens rangefinder are like : Olympus 35RD (shutter priority with manual control), Yashica Electro 35 GX and Yashica Electro 35 CC (both Yashicas are strictly aperture priority, with the CC having a tad wider lens at 35mm but it's has a lower top shutter speed at 1/250 sec).
If you want fast lens but a fully auto rangefinder, perhaps you should look for Minolta Hi-Matic E or Olympus 35DC. Or if you don't need fast lens, then i think the Konica C35 is a pretty damn good camera for you. A smaller rangefinder camera would be Olympus XA, which is a rangefinder marvel! It's F2.8 Zuiko, 6 elements in 5 groups lens is very sharp. If I am not mistaken, it's THE smallest true rangefinder with aperture priority control. The shutter is electronically controled and is released by a soft touch on it's button. And oh, it uses 2 LR44 batteries.
Like Minolta Hi-Matic 7S II, the Vivitar 35ES and Revue 400SE (both shutter priority and without manual control) are also pretty similar to Konica Auto S3 but perhaps their lens could be more similar to the Minolta's. However, fear not, as they are all are good and sharp lens. All those 4 cameras originally use PX675 mercury battery. PX675 battery is same as LR44 (it's commonly available) in terms of size but with different voltage, PX675's 1.35 v as opposed to LR44's 1.5v. But in my experience, these camera should be able to tolerate with the difference. I also should mention that the Vivitar and Revue are more affordable to get than the Konica and also the Minolta. All these 4 cameras are romoured to be from the same OEM but i guess Konica's lens could be different and Minolta has manual control to differentiate from the Vivitar and Revue.
As for the Canon GIII QL17, it's shutter priority with manual control as well. It's a tad bigger than the than the 4 cameras mentioned above. An obvious advantage is, it has parallax compensation viewfinder, a features many love (but I am ok with either). It uses PX625 battery, which again like those mentioned above, is actually a mercury battery and the camera is able to tolerate on new akaline 1.5v battery. It's newer alternative battery is LR-9/PX625A, which, I foresee is getting rarer and rarer. Most of the GIII were made in Taiwan, only very few were made in Japan. One way to tell the difference is, by looking at the "GIII" badge on the front of the camera. If it's in red colour, then it's made in Taiwan, if it's black, it's from Japan. A chrome/silver GIII's price should be around Vivitar's or Revue but a black GIII cost considerably more (the same applies to most cameras that come in 2 finishes).
Among other similarly sized, fast lens rangefinder are like : Olympus 35RD (shutter priority with manual control), Yashica Electro 35 GX and Yashica Electro 35 CC (both Yashicas are strictly aperture priority, with the CC having a tad wider lens at 35mm but it's has a lower top shutter speed at 1/250 sec).
If you want fast lens but a fully auto rangefinder, perhaps you should look for Minolta Hi-Matic E or Olympus 35DC. Or if you don't need fast lens, then i think the Konica C35 is a pretty damn good camera for you. A smaller rangefinder camera would be Olympus XA, which is a rangefinder marvel! It's F2.8 Zuiko, 6 elements in 5 groups lens is very sharp. If I am not mistaken, it's THE smallest true rangefinder with aperture priority control. The shutter is electronically controled and is released by a soft touch on it's button. And oh, it uses 2 LR44 batteries.
Hi forumers...
I have a CANON CANONET G-III QL17 RANGEFINDER which was handed to me and I would like to learn how to use this camera. Here are a few questions which I am seeking u guys for advice:
(1) Where to send the camera for a full check and service (if needed)?
(2) What is CLA means? Is that mean complete overhaul?
(3) How much do I need to spend to ensure that the camera is in perfect working order?
(4) According to Terrence, the camera requires (#625) mercury battery. Just want to double-check if the suggested new akaline 1.5v battery is the best option.
(5) Keen on using the camera to shoot B&W. What is the best film to use?
(6) Where to develop B&W films? BTW, do u develop all your photos or do you just scan it & select a few best shoot for development. How much it cost?
Thanks in advance for helping this newbie!
I have a CANON CANONET G-III QL17 RANGEFINDER which was handed to me and I would like to learn how to use this camera. Here are a few questions which I am seeking u guys for advice:
(1) Where to send the camera for a full check and service (if needed)?
(2) What is CLA means? Is that mean complete overhaul?
(3) How much do I need to spend to ensure that the camera is in perfect working order?
(4) According to Terrence, the camera requires (#625) mercury battery. Just want to double-check if the suggested new akaline 1.5v battery is the best option.
(5) Keen on using the camera to shoot B&W. What is the best film to use?
(6) Where to develop B&W films? BTW, do u develop all your photos or do you just scan it & select a few best shoot for development. How much it cost?
Thanks in advance for helping this newbie!
alternatve
Senior Member
Hi forumers...
I have a CANON CANONET G-III QL17 RANGEFINDER which was handed to me and I would like to learn how to use this camera. Here are a few questions which I am seeking u guys for advice:
(1) Where to send the camera for a full check and service (if needed)?
(2) What is CLA means? Is that mean complete overhaul?
(3) How much do I need to spend to ensure that the camera is in perfect working order?
(4) According to Terrence, the camera requires (#625) mercury battery. Just want to double-check if the suggested new akaline 1.5v battery is the best option.
(5) Keen on using the camera to shoot B&W. What is the best film to use?
(6) Where to develop B&W films? BTW, do u develop all your photos or do you just scan it & select a few best shoot for development. How much it cost?
Thanks in advance for helping this newbie!
I'll answer your questions point by point.
(1) Where to send the camera for a full check and service (if needed)?
Do read http://clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300663 for CLA locations.
(2) What is CLA means? Is that mean complete overhaul?
CLA is an acronym for Clean, Lubricate and Adjustment. It is a complete overhaul of the camera itself, though cleaning the lens might cost more as it technically isn't part of the camera.
(3) How much do I need to spend to ensure that the camera is in perfect working order?
I last heard that a full CLA costs $150. If your camera is in bad condition, it would cost more. Other then that, if you treat it well, you can safety use your camera for another 10 years or so.
(4) According to Terrence, the camera requires (#625) mercury battery. Just want to double-check if the suggested new akaline 1.5v battery is the best option.
You don't really have a choice as the mercury battery has been long discontinued. I think Sim Lim Tower might have a substitute battery. If the meter hasn't been adjusted, the higher voltage of the 1.5v battery will render the meter inaccurate. You can either go without the meter or have a camera repairman do it for you.
(5) Keen on using the camera to shoot B&W. What is the best film to use?
Very subjective this. Tri X is a firm favorite of most, but I find it too grainy. I use XP-2 myself, even though it's a bit more expensive, the grain is superb and I can process it at any colour lab.
(6) Where to develop B&W films? BTW, do u develop all your photos or do you just scan it & select a few best shoot for development. How much it cost?
You can develop your B&W film at riceball or ruby. I don't think many people here have the cash to develop all their photos. Usually, they have a contact print made or have it developed and scanned in. I don't know how much the prices are.
Hope this helps. All the best using your camera.
I had used my GIII with alkaline 1.5v 625 (P625A) without any metering problem. I guess the camera's meter is able to tolerate the 0.2v diff.
Came across some nice pics taken with the Konica C35.
http://www.pentaxclub.co.kr/bbs/zbo...=on&select_arrange=reg_date&desc=desc&no=2437
you have to scroll down to see the pictures.
http://www.pentaxclub.co.kr/bbs/zbo...=on&select_arrange=reg_date&desc=desc&no=2437
you have to scroll down to see the pictures.
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