Newbie guide to Canon EOS SLR system (Limited 10k chars )
What camera models are there in the Canon EOS SLR system currently?
The approximate prices in Singapore dollars of the cameras in that class is stated in the brackets. The lower end of the price spectrum refers to 2nd hand prices while the high end refers to new sets.
For Film Camera,
Consumer Class ($200-$700)
EOS 66
EOS 300v
EOS 3000v
EOS 300
Prosumer Class ($450-$800)
EOS 33/30
EOS 33v/30v
Professional Class ($1100-$3500)
EOS 1v
EOS 3
For Digital Camera,
Consumer Class ($1300-$1800)
EOS 300D (Package comes with 18-55 kit lens, but can also buy without lens)
Prosumer Class ($1000-$2700)
EOS D30/D60/10D
Professional Class ($6000-$13000)
EOS 1D
EOS 1D Mark II
EOS 1Ds
Which of the above camera suits me?
1) Choose Digital or Film.
Maybe might own both in the future but choose one for a start.
Shall I go Digital or Film?
There is extremely long debate on this topic on the Internet and you can read until you grow old.
Main points though.
Digital advantages
- Instant review after taking the pictures
- No incremental cost of film
- No need to have partnership with a lab to develop photos.
- Easier learning curve because of the instant review ( highly subjective )
Digital disadvantages
- High initial cost of camera bodies
- Need to process images on the computer to make it look good. ( Not as idiot-proof as to send to the lab to do it)
- Dust that gets on the sensor is a pain to clean. ( or expensive if you send it in )
- Camera bodies depreciate in value quickly
- Batteries do not last very long. ( need to charge often )
Film advantages
- Wide variety of film choices on the market to try
- Easy workflow. Take pictures and send the film to the lab. And you are done.
- Do not require extensive knowledge on computers.
- Camera bodies do not depreciate in value quickly
- In fact, the prices of 2nd hand film cameras are extremely attractive now thanks to digital.
- Batteries last loooooonger.
Film disadvantages
- High cost of film and development services. ( An issue if you take pictures very often )
- Dust issues when scanning negatives or slides.
- Need to change film every 36/24 frames!
Conclusion on the film vs digital debate in my humble opinion.
a) Go film
- if you do not take pictures very often to justify the high cost of digital slrs.
- if you are not proficient in computers
- if you just want to enjoy taking pictures the traditional way
b) Go digital
- if you take pictures very often. ( make sure you have the time to do so )
- if you are proficient in computers
- if you can afford the higher initial cost because it has a lower running cost and allows you to learn faster through trial and error.
2) Budget.
Look at the prices in brackets beside the class of camera to know what you can afford. If the prices make your eyebrow raised, move down the class or choose film instead of digital.
Most people start in the consumer class although some people prefer to jump straight to the prosumer class.
I would recommend starting in the consumer class if you have no experience with SLRs to get an idea of what you get youself into. Move up the classes as you get more experienced. The last thing you want to do is to buy an expensive piece of equipment and you have no clue on how to use it.
3) Needs/Wants
SLRs generally are big and heavy compared to the small compact digital cameras. Therefore, if you want a small camera, please look elsewhere and not at the Canon EOS system.
The consumer class SLRs are the lightest and are a good starting point for newbies to SLR system. Do not buy a professional class camera as the first camera.
What lenses to get?
Ahh... Here we come to the most controversial part.
Canon EOS system uses the EF mount. There are many lenses which supports the EF mount including those from Canon (obviously), Sigma, Tamron and Tokina etc.
Make sure when you buy 3rd party lenses, the mount is canon mount to ensure that it works on your camera. The safest way is to bring your own camera down to test the lens before purchasing.
Ok, after making sure it's the EF mount, you need to make sure whether it's a lens made for digital or a full frame lens. Not a problem if you buy Canon lenses because they do not make special digital lenses. ( 18-55 is the only but it's bundled with the 300D and cannot be purchased separately ) However, do be careful when you buy 3rd party lenses, For example, when you buy sigma lenses for Canon mount, the DC in the description refers to digital lenses which means it is meant for most digital bodies which has a
smaller sensor size than a full frame lens.
EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM
You might often see the description of lenses like the one above. It looks cryptic for the beginner but it is actually not too hard to figure out.
The "EF" refers to the Canon mount so you are looking at the right type of lens.
The 28-105mm refers to the focal length. The larger the number means the more "zoomed" it is. ie. reach further. When there is a range of numbers, it refers to a zoom lens where you can alter how "zoomed" the lens. If there is only 1 number, it refers to a prime lens where you cannot alter the "zoom" of the lens. Generally, although debatable, prime lens tend to be sharper than zoom lens because of the simpler construction.
f/3.5-4.5 refers to the maximum aperture size. f/3.5 is the maximum aperture for 28mm and f/4.5 is the maximum aperture for 105mm. The maximum aperture decides the maximum amount of light that the lens can allow through. It is often referred as how bright the lens is. The smaller the number means the "brighter" the lens.
II refers to Mark II or the 2nd version of this model of lens.
USM refer below.
Most of the current digital SLRs has a smaller sensor size than the full 35mm frame size. Therefore, when you mount your current lenses, the effective focal length gets multiplied by the crop factor. Here are the crop factors for current EOS cameras.
Crop Factor for EOS cameras.
1.6x
EOS 300D
EOS D30/D60/10D
1.3x
EOS 1D
EOS 1D Mark II
1.0x (full frame)
EOS 1Ds
For example, if you mount a 28-105 on a 300D body with a crop factor of 1.6x. The effective focal length is 28x1.6 - 105x1.6 = 45 - 168
Newbie recommendation in my humble opinion.
The following lenses make a good starting point.
General purpose lens with a good decent range.
Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM ($300-$550)
Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM ($600-$850)
Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM ($450-$600)
Telephoto zoom ( long range )
Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM ($150-$350)
Good and cheap prime lens for low light.
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II ($100-$160)
Wide Angle ( short range with a wide view )
Canon EF 20-35mm f/3.5-4.5 ($300-$600)
So,
Get a general purpose lens in your budget. I recommended only Canon lenses here for maximum compatibility and brand loyalty. :bsmilie: But do try out the 3rd party ones too. Ask around the people here for more reviews.
Highly rated lenses 3rd party lenses to start off include...
Wide Angle Zooms.
Tamron AF19-35MM F/3.5-4.5
Tokina AF19-35MM F/3.5-4.5
Standard Zooms.
Tamron SP AF28-75MM F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF)
Tamron SP AF24-135MM F/3.5-5.6 AD Aspherical (IF) Macro
Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8 EX Aspherical DF
Sigma 24-135mm F/2.8-4.5
Tokina AF 28-70mm F/2.8
Super Zooms ( cover a large range, good for people who hate to change lenses )
Tamron AF28-200MM F/3.8-5.6 XR Aspherical (IF) Macro
Sigma COMPACT HYPERZOOM 28-300mm F/3.5-6.3 ASPHERICAL
Telephto Zooms ( long range )
Tamron AF70-300MM F/4-5.6 LD Macro
Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Macro Super II
Digital Lenses ( designed for the smaller sensors of most digital SLRs )
Sigma 18-50mm F/3.5-5.6 DC
Sigma 18-125mm F/3.5-5.6 DC
Besides these zoom lenses, you can try the prime lenses once you are familiar with the focal length concept. It is a challenge to take photos with a fixed focal length but it definitely improve your photography skills if you can master it.
There are specialized lenses such as macro lenses for taking small objects. But it is optional. Go slow. Slowly discover what kind of pictures you like to take and you will automatically know which lenses to get. Do not make the mistake of buying too many lenses at once. One at time is usually more than sufficient.
Hey, where are the L lenses?
Hahaha.. do not get them if you are a newbie. Unless of course, the prices do not hurt you at all. The L lenses are the luxury range of lenses from Canon which are good but cost quite a bit of money.
What is USM at the end of the lenses description?
USM is Ultrasonic Motor. Canon lenses equipped with USM generally has silent and super-fast autofocus performance.
What is IS at the end of the lenses description?
Canon has developed a series of truly unique lenses equipped with an Image Stabilizer (IS) function that let you capture photos that would otherwise be blurred due to camera movement, greatly expanding the range of handheld-camera photography.
Is IS necessary?
No. IS is useful but not absolutely necessary. The IS lenses are rather expensive and should be only bought if you can appreciate the difference it makes to your photography.
What other accessories to get?
Millions. Trillions. The joy of photography is that you can't own everything until maybe you buy a camera shop.
Cable releases.
Flashes.
Tripods.
Monopods.
Filters.
Straps.
etc.
In my humble opinion, take your time to find out what all those stuff do. If you do not know what they do, you DO NOT NEED IT yet.
What camera models are there in the Canon EOS SLR system currently?
The approximate prices in Singapore dollars of the cameras in that class is stated in the brackets. The lower end of the price spectrum refers to 2nd hand prices while the high end refers to new sets.
For Film Camera,
Consumer Class ($200-$700)
EOS 66
EOS 300v
EOS 3000v
EOS 300
Prosumer Class ($450-$800)
EOS 33/30
EOS 33v/30v
Professional Class ($1100-$3500)
EOS 1v
EOS 3
For Digital Camera,
Consumer Class ($1300-$1800)
EOS 300D (Package comes with 18-55 kit lens, but can also buy without lens)
Prosumer Class ($1000-$2700)
EOS D30/D60/10D
Professional Class ($6000-$13000)
EOS 1D
EOS 1D Mark II
EOS 1Ds
Which of the above camera suits me?
1) Choose Digital or Film.
Maybe might own both in the future but choose one for a start.
Shall I go Digital or Film?
There is extremely long debate on this topic on the Internet and you can read until you grow old.
Main points though.
Digital advantages
- Instant review after taking the pictures
- No incremental cost of film
- No need to have partnership with a lab to develop photos.
- Easier learning curve because of the instant review ( highly subjective )
Digital disadvantages
- High initial cost of camera bodies
- Need to process images on the computer to make it look good. ( Not as idiot-proof as to send to the lab to do it)
- Dust that gets on the sensor is a pain to clean. ( or expensive if you send it in )
- Camera bodies depreciate in value quickly
- Batteries do not last very long. ( need to charge often )
Film advantages
- Wide variety of film choices on the market to try
- Easy workflow. Take pictures and send the film to the lab. And you are done.
- Do not require extensive knowledge on computers.
- Camera bodies do not depreciate in value quickly
- In fact, the prices of 2nd hand film cameras are extremely attractive now thanks to digital.
- Batteries last loooooonger.
Film disadvantages
- High cost of film and development services. ( An issue if you take pictures very often )
- Dust issues when scanning negatives or slides.
- Need to change film every 36/24 frames!
Conclusion on the film vs digital debate in my humble opinion.
a) Go film
- if you do not take pictures very often to justify the high cost of digital slrs.
- if you are not proficient in computers
- if you just want to enjoy taking pictures the traditional way
b) Go digital
- if you take pictures very often. ( make sure you have the time to do so )
- if you are proficient in computers
- if you can afford the higher initial cost because it has a lower running cost and allows you to learn faster through trial and error.
2) Budget.
Look at the prices in brackets beside the class of camera to know what you can afford. If the prices make your eyebrow raised, move down the class or choose film instead of digital.
Most people start in the consumer class although some people prefer to jump straight to the prosumer class.
I would recommend starting in the consumer class if you have no experience with SLRs to get an idea of what you get youself into. Move up the classes as you get more experienced. The last thing you want to do is to buy an expensive piece of equipment and you have no clue on how to use it.
3) Needs/Wants
SLRs generally are big and heavy compared to the small compact digital cameras. Therefore, if you want a small camera, please look elsewhere and not at the Canon EOS system.
The consumer class SLRs are the lightest and are a good starting point for newbies to SLR system. Do not buy a professional class camera as the first camera.
What lenses to get?
Ahh... Here we come to the most controversial part.
Canon EOS system uses the EF mount. There are many lenses which supports the EF mount including those from Canon (obviously), Sigma, Tamron and Tokina etc.
Make sure when you buy 3rd party lenses, the mount is canon mount to ensure that it works on your camera. The safest way is to bring your own camera down to test the lens before purchasing.
Ok, after making sure it's the EF mount, you need to make sure whether it's a lens made for digital or a full frame lens. Not a problem if you buy Canon lenses because they do not make special digital lenses. ( 18-55 is the only but it's bundled with the 300D and cannot be purchased separately ) However, do be careful when you buy 3rd party lenses, For example, when you buy sigma lenses for Canon mount, the DC in the description refers to digital lenses which means it is meant for most digital bodies which has a
smaller sensor size than a full frame lens.
EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM
You might often see the description of lenses like the one above. It looks cryptic for the beginner but it is actually not too hard to figure out.
The "EF" refers to the Canon mount so you are looking at the right type of lens.
The 28-105mm refers to the focal length. The larger the number means the more "zoomed" it is. ie. reach further. When there is a range of numbers, it refers to a zoom lens where you can alter how "zoomed" the lens. If there is only 1 number, it refers to a prime lens where you cannot alter the "zoom" of the lens. Generally, although debatable, prime lens tend to be sharper than zoom lens because of the simpler construction.
f/3.5-4.5 refers to the maximum aperture size. f/3.5 is the maximum aperture for 28mm and f/4.5 is the maximum aperture for 105mm. The maximum aperture decides the maximum amount of light that the lens can allow through. It is often referred as how bright the lens is. The smaller the number means the "brighter" the lens.
II refers to Mark II or the 2nd version of this model of lens.
USM refer below.
Most of the current digital SLRs has a smaller sensor size than the full 35mm frame size. Therefore, when you mount your current lenses, the effective focal length gets multiplied by the crop factor. Here are the crop factors for current EOS cameras.
Crop Factor for EOS cameras.
1.6x
EOS 300D
EOS D30/D60/10D
1.3x
EOS 1D
EOS 1D Mark II
1.0x (full frame)
EOS 1Ds
For example, if you mount a 28-105 on a 300D body with a crop factor of 1.6x. The effective focal length is 28x1.6 - 105x1.6 = 45 - 168
Newbie recommendation in my humble opinion.
The following lenses make a good starting point.
General purpose lens with a good decent range.
Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM ($300-$550)
Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM ($600-$850)
Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM ($450-$600)
Telephoto zoom ( long range )
Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM ($150-$350)
Good and cheap prime lens for low light.
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II ($100-$160)
Wide Angle ( short range with a wide view )
Canon EF 20-35mm f/3.5-4.5 ($300-$600)
So,
Get a general purpose lens in your budget. I recommended only Canon lenses here for maximum compatibility and brand loyalty. :bsmilie: But do try out the 3rd party ones too. Ask around the people here for more reviews.
Highly rated lenses 3rd party lenses to start off include...
Wide Angle Zooms.
Tamron AF19-35MM F/3.5-4.5
Tokina AF19-35MM F/3.5-4.5
Standard Zooms.
Tamron SP AF28-75MM F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF)
Tamron SP AF24-135MM F/3.5-5.6 AD Aspherical (IF) Macro
Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8 EX Aspherical DF
Sigma 24-135mm F/2.8-4.5
Tokina AF 28-70mm F/2.8
Super Zooms ( cover a large range, good for people who hate to change lenses )
Tamron AF28-200MM F/3.8-5.6 XR Aspherical (IF) Macro
Sigma COMPACT HYPERZOOM 28-300mm F/3.5-6.3 ASPHERICAL
Telephto Zooms ( long range )
Tamron AF70-300MM F/4-5.6 LD Macro
Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Macro Super II
Digital Lenses ( designed for the smaller sensors of most digital SLRs )
Sigma 18-50mm F/3.5-5.6 DC
Sigma 18-125mm F/3.5-5.6 DC
Besides these zoom lenses, you can try the prime lenses once you are familiar with the focal length concept. It is a challenge to take photos with a fixed focal length but it definitely improve your photography skills if you can master it.
There are specialized lenses such as macro lenses for taking small objects. But it is optional. Go slow. Slowly discover what kind of pictures you like to take and you will automatically know which lenses to get. Do not make the mistake of buying too many lenses at once. One at time is usually more than sufficient.
Hey, where are the L lenses?
Hahaha.. do not get them if you are a newbie. Unless of course, the prices do not hurt you at all. The L lenses are the luxury range of lenses from Canon which are good but cost quite a bit of money.
What is USM at the end of the lenses description?
USM is Ultrasonic Motor. Canon lenses equipped with USM generally has silent and super-fast autofocus performance.
What is IS at the end of the lenses description?
Canon has developed a series of truly unique lenses equipped with an Image Stabilizer (IS) function that let you capture photos that would otherwise be blurred due to camera movement, greatly expanding the range of handheld-camera photography.
Is IS necessary?
No. IS is useful but not absolutely necessary. The IS lenses are rather expensive and should be only bought if you can appreciate the difference it makes to your photography.
What other accessories to get?
Millions. Trillions. The joy of photography is that you can't own everything until maybe you buy a camera shop.
Cable releases.
Flashes.
Tripods.
Monopods.
Filters.
Straps.
etc.
In my humble opinion, take your time to find out what all those stuff do. If you do not know what they do, you DO NOT NEED IT yet.