Bessa R4M & R4A


Status
Not open for further replies.

chiif

Senior Member
A recent information released by Cosina on their new Bessa R4A/M.

Expected release date: SPRING 2007 (I think Japanese Spring starts from April? hmmm... :think: )

Price? Not released yet. Shouldn't cost more than a Leica MP.

Place your order with me now to avoid disappointment. No deposit required. Just make sure you don't bail out. Thank you...

Bessa-R4M.jpg


Bessa-R4A.jpg
 

Looks good! What's the difference between the R3 and the R4? And what does the M and A after the R4 mean? M for mechnical and A for Automation?
 

chiif, is there any lens package from you together with the new bessas? the new bessa looks highly interesting. :think:
 

Seems like the R3 would still be around as the R4 is mainly for small angle lenses. It's still rates high on the cool meter though. ^^
 

Seems like the R3 would still be around as the R4 is mainly for small angle lenses. It's still rates high on the cool meter though. ^^

yes, damn cool for the various frame lens. a first i must say.
 

Hi Mr Nightwolf,

Good question! I believe it would be better that you buy a lens together with the body that you like. Not something that I package for you and make it look attractive in terms of pricing. :)

The 21mm/f4 is definitly a nice lens to use with this body. I use the 21mm for my general shooting and find that focusing and perspective is pretty fun for storytelling.

Personally I have not touched the R4M/A, but the x0.52 is the smallest I have seen on RF, which I believe made the 21mm frameline possible.

Will keep you guys posted on the pricing and availability.

Regards,
Chii Fei

chiif, is there any lens package from you together with the new bessas? the new bessa looks highly interesting. :think:
 

Oh ****!!! i was about to tell myself not to get a cam anymore!! And here comes the R4! :sweat: Okie...please update us regarding the price! hahaha.
 

Hi Mr Nightwolf,

Good question! I believe it would be better that you buy a lens together with the body that you like. Not something that I package for you and make it look attractive in terms of pricing. :)

The 21mm/f4 is definitly a nice lens to use with this body. I use the 21mm for my general shooting and find that focusing and perspective is pretty fun for storytelling.

Personally I have not touched the R4M/A, but the x0.52 is the smallest I have seen on RF, which I believe made the 21mm frameline possible.

Will keep you guys posted on the pricing and availability.

Regards,
Chii Fei

yeah... i know. told me in ur email b4. :bsmilie:

reason i ask cos there might be some RF newbies like me who just get by with 1 lens on all the time - like a 35mm or wider. thot it might be more economical for me to get a package than separate deals. ;)

keep us posted!
 

I am writing this to give a very brief introduction to some of our fellow CS'er who are new to RF and wish to "try it out"...

As I have always told people who wanted to get into RF photography, if you just want to get into the gear and try try... see see whether it is as fun as digital or SLR... then I would suggest, try it on a cheap RF or maybe a fixed lens RF first. And see whether it is really hype or truth.

The fun of RF photography is in quickness to snap the picture sometime without even your subject knowing it. Sometimes you don't even have to bring up to your eye to focus to get a well composed shot. That is why it was popular among journalists for many many years. Hence it is great for street photography and taking things that people do everyday, without imposing on them, making them feel awkward. As some of you might have seen this series Nurses of Singapore by one of our fellow CS'er , it's an excellent illustration of what RF cameras can do very well. A big chunky SLR or DSLR can do the work as well... but you will spend half the time coaxing the subject or making the subject less threatened by your professional equipment.

As for which RF bodies to get, if you have unlimited cash resources to spend, the Leica MP is of cos one of the best you can get today (if you really really got alot of cash, you can get an alpa, NOT Sony Alpha!) . But if you want a good RF body and reliable metering and don't mind adjusting the shuttlespeed all the time, then the R3M is the perfect body at below SGD1000. If you intend to use it for street photography and don't mind the distortion, go for the 21mm/f4 which is pretty value for money interms of "widest angle per dollar index". If you are a more conservative person and don't want your wife and girl friend to complain they look too fat from pictures taken from your new toy, then the R3M will go very well with the 40mm/f1.4, which is a very highly rated lens at only SGD453. Frankly, nowadays, it's hard to find such well made lens below SGD1000. And it rolled out from the same factory that made the "Z" lenses...

If you are lazy but want to make sure all your shots are correctly exposed, then getting a R3A or R2A would be a wiser choice as it got AE (Auto Exposure). The difference between a R2A & R3A is in the frame lines. R2A has 35, 50, 75 & 90mm frame lines, where R3A has 40, 50, 75, 90mm frame lones. So what does it mean? Does it mean that I cannot shoot using 40mm lens on R2A???? What this actually means that you have to *agar agar* (approximate) the view and compose the picture in your head and envision what you will get on the final print. Is it a BIG thing? In my personal opinion, no, it is not a big thing. As I always believe... when you want to take a picture, the framing is done in your head, not through the viewfinder. The viewfinder is just a reference so that your final picture don't end up people with no head. You can always use the 50mm frameline on the 40mm lens, you just need to crop the output a little or approximate frame size. It takes a little practise to get it right of cos...

So, which to get R2A, R3A, R3M or wait for R4M or R4A?????

In my own opinion, the R2A black is the best to start with. It's the most value for money. Do note that the production for R2A has ceased. There are only about 70 left in Cosina stock. Hence, it will be the last chance to own a Bessa R2A less than S$800.

Unfortunately, the only R3A I have is grey in colour. Some of you might not like it. In my own opinion, it's cool. You might not know in years to come, collectors will be looking for the grey one! But if you're using it to shoot, it probably doesn't matter. Maybe it will put your subject more at ease as they probably think that you are using a TOY and won't take you seriously.

I believe in getting value from anything that I buy, that's why I make sure every customer of mine is happy with their new tool or toy. Don't just get into RF because it belongs to the same breed as Leica. The true joy of photography is not in owning the best or most expensive camera and a good picture is not necessary made with the most expensive or most mega pixel camera.

I really hope the younger generation will appreciate what 35mm still has to offer and if they want to learn about photography, start from the basic of shuttle speed, aperture and film speed.

RF is back to basic. You compose the picture from your head, look through the finder to make sure everything you want to capture is in frame, in focus, right exposure and press the shuttle. Nothing fancy, nothing glamourous... just what some of you described, it's a gentleman camera. :)

I hope I've made your buying decision easier. :)
 

I am writing this to give a very brief introduction to some of our fellow CS'er who are new to RF and wish to "try it out"...

I hope I've made your buying decision easier. :)

thnx for the write-up, chiif!

and no... u are not making my decision any easier! arghh... :sweatsm:
 

I read somewhere, the smaller the viewfinder magnification, the more difficult it is for you to focus accurately. Is this true?
 

I read somewhere, the smaller the viewfinder magnification, the more difficult it is for you to focus accurately. Is this true?

To be more specific, it is the RF baselength (RF patch size) that affects focusing accuracy; i.e. the longer the baselength, the higher the focusing allowance. This baselength is further affected by the VF's magnification.

For example, if the baselength is 20mm, and the magnification is 1:1, you'll get 20mm baselength for focusing. And if the baselength is 50mm and the VF magnification is 0.5x, you'll get 25mm. So even the magnification for the latter case is half of the first, the longer baselength allow better focusing...

Bessa's baselength is not very long (made even smaller by the R4's magnification), but when using mainly with wideangles (as in the case of the R4), the larger DOF afforded by wideangles can compensate the short baselength.
 

After using a Bessa look-alike for a while (R-D1s), I am beginning to like its shape and form factor more than the Leica M. Feels slimmer (and deceptably looks slimmer when seen from the top) and the "grip" for the palm (as apposed to the fingers) very assuring.

BTW, with a small VF magnification designed for wide angles, what's the lowest focussing range on the viewfinder on the Bessa R4? I notice that the CV 21 f/4 Color Skopar is calibrated to focus down to 0.5m. And the Leica 35mm Summicron ASPH has some extra allowance below 0.7m. Does the Zeiss Ikon focus closer than 0.7?
 

After using a Bessa look-alike for a while (R-D1s), I am beginning to like its shape and form factor more than the Leica M. Feels slimmer (and deceptably looks slimmer when seen from the top) and the "grip" for the palm (as apposed to the fingers) very assuring.

BTW, with a small VF magnification designed for wide angles, what's the lowest focussing range on the viewfinder on the Bessa R4? I notice that the CV 21 f/4 Color Skopar is calibrated to focus down to 0.5m. And the Leica 35mm Summicron ASPH has some extra allowance below 0.7m. Does the Zeiss Ikon focus closer than 0.7?

I find the R-D1s easier to grip due to the lighter body weight and rubber covering... that said, I still find the M smaller and slimmer. BTW, the M-grip helps heaps for me...

As for the minimum coupled range, the R4 and Ikon is the same as the M, i.e. 0.7-infinity.
 

Thanks Mr Regit for explaining in detail. To help to illustrate further, refer to the diagram below:

bessa_body.jpg


The baselength is referring to the distance between (15) and (17).

For Leica design, the distance between (15) and (17) is longer than Bessa body. That is why attaching a 135mm lens on Leica is possible, while on a Bessa body would be slightly more difficult to focus.

On a Zeiss body, the Viewfinder Window is all the way to the side, as a result, the rewind knob is at the bottom of the body. It's a pretty clever design as it allow a longer baselength for the camera. That's why in my previous post, I said it was good design and well built. :)

Nevertheless, if you need a longer focal length camera, a SLR would be more ideal. The strength of Bessa is in wide angle. Put on a 21mm/f4 turns it into a ultimate shooting machine...
 

Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top