another question about my b/w film scans - please look


heshanj

New Member
hey guys. i just did another test roll with black and white film (fuju neopan acros 100) and my nikon fm2n - and got them back from the lab today. i got them scanned at the lab this time.

previously, i had some complaints with my prints looking extremely grainy and .. just not right (posted here http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/slr-compacts/1007088-kinda-grainy-black-white-prints.html )

this time the grain is very fine, i think, and for most part it looks good.. i managed to even get a few images that i liike, even though i was just like testing it out. but the white areas on some photos look completely white, i.e. with no detail at all.. im not sure if this is a feature of b/w film photography or whether there's again something with the processing.. or this time, maybe scanning? coz i remember when i was reading up about film scanners, they talk about the level of detail that can be scanned. ive seen some b/w photos where the sky is kinda white, like mine, but some where it has this nice shade of grey. according to the data, the lab used a fuji sp3000 scanner. and i asked for high res, the scans are about 3-4mb each. well, here are a few samples of wat im talkign about::

the sky in this one.. looks pretty overexposed, yet the landscape itself looks almost dark
000002.jpg


and in this too.. the sky looks overexposed but the church looks almost under exposed. maybe these were both shot at a bad time/angle of sun?
00021.jpg


the lower right area of the sidewalk in this pic -
00014.jpg


the following look almost fine to me, so i dont think its a problem with my camera's meter overexposing etc:

this one has a bit of the 'pure white' look in the background wall-
000003.jpg


but this one seems just fine - i'd post more but i can only post 5, and i think there's enough to show wat i mean!

000059.jpg


i just tested out my light meter compared to my dslr. in about 5 different scenes, my fm2n gave the same result as my 500D. and i used the fm2n's meter level and used 500D in manual mode, and the pics looked perfect. so im pretty sure the metering is fine. just to get that out of the way

i guess wat im really asking is that, does that sort of image look normal for b/w film? am i expecting results that look too much like digital b/w? or does it seem like the scanning couldve been better?
the worst of them are the first two, where the sky is pure white, with no detail, and the picture end up a bit weird. they were pretty sunny days, maybe its the photographers fault for picking a wrong time and a wrong angle. haha. thanks for ur time!
 

Last edited:
they look fine to me. did you shoot in the middle of the day? my guess that could be why the skies were overblown. esp when you probably metered the darker areas (like the buildings).

do you remember where was the point you metered? for the first shot, did you metered the centre of the frame and the second the steeple?

for the third shot, you metered the person in the foreground? and you metered the jacket? that could explain why the sidewalk was overblown.
 

thanks bro. i was shooting in the afternoon, about 3-4pm if i recall. im gonna guess my metering was not ideal, nor was the time of day for the particular shots that have those parts blown out. i dont remember where i metered for the first pic, but im pretty sure i did meter the steeple on the second. and the third one, probably i metered the person (and the dark jacket)

the only think i dont understand is..say, the first pic. if i metered the buildings, the buildings should appear a bit better exposed.. but the buildings tend to look a bit dark actually, and the sky is blown out. sort of the same case with the second pic of the chuch too. the third one, i guess i metered the dark jacket, n thats why

thanks for the explanation bro. good to know that this doesnt seem anything too bad :D i guess i could always just photoshop the scans a bit
 

Is the sky that day already gray and featureless?

As for metering, was it Spot metering to be sure?
 

yes, the sky WAS pretty gray and dull that day. but i still thought maybe the sky shouldve come out with bit more of a gray tone, not such a plain white?

spot metering, hmm im not sure how to answer that :D i was using the built in meter on my fm2n, and i just metered the scene as i framed it. if im not mistaken, my built in meter uses the center area of the frame, and that is wat i used to meter the church pic etc. hope that helps
 

I guess that explains it...
 

looks fine for all. there's whites -> mid-tone grey -> blacks. dynamic range limitations are the same regardless be it digital or film. the first is back lit and the 2nd is raking light from your left, obvious cues to the exposure. if you want to be 100% sure about your metering next time use a spot meter to find your 7-stop (negatives) dynamic range limit.
 

thanks. that explains it for the most part, for me. but i dont really understand how a spot meter would work to help in this situation.. and when u say use a spot meter next time, u mean using an external meter, right? assuming i had one, can someone explain how that might have helped the first two pics, for example?
thanks again! and happy CNY to u all :)
 

Last edited:
thanks. that explains it for the most part, for me. but i dont really understand how a spot meter would work to help in this situation.. and when u say use a spot meter next time, u mean using an external meter, right? assuming i had one, can someone explain how that might have helped the first two pics, for example?
thanks again! and happy CNY to u all :)

Spot metering: That would utilise the zone system. Negative has an allowance for 7 stops of light from pure whites to pure blacks. Take the spot meter and found out what are the measurements for the element you want to capture detail in for shadow area & highlight area. For the 2nd pic, it could be from the bottom right wall of church to the left side of steeple. You take measurements to found out if the exposure is within 7 stops. If it is, you can find the mid-point for exposure and if it isn't then you need to decide which to sacrifice.

Read for further explaination
A simplified zone system for making good exposures
Zone System - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
negative exposure

Most sites will talk about film developing. If you don't do that then just try to expose within the dynamic range limits at least.

ps. for the 1st pic, there is no solving a back lit scene. Not unless you can use flash or a bounce card on the entire city.
 

Last edited:
To add, fm2n metering is pretty accurate. I have both the camera and a spot meter but I wouldn't hesitate to trust the in-camera metering for most scenes. You just need to apply knowledge of the zone system above and apply some EV adjustment as needed. As you shoot and learn more then you'll know when spot metering is needed over centre-weighted.
 

woah, thanks alot for all the info! that really helps. i definitely need to keep going out n shooting, and also keep reading this stuff. i didnt know much about all that til now, its a great help. due to budget reasons more than anything, i'll have to stick to the built in meter for now :D im gonna need a 'normal' light meter when i get my canon P rangefinder down.. and im guessing a spot meter is a separate device, yes? thanks again
 

thanks again, im gonna start educating myself more on metering and exposure.. cheers
 

Back
Top