Recent content by nofocus

My feeling that this excellent question is to be answered on a case-by-case basis, with due weight being given to each "parameter" in the equation for a camera-shake-free photo, especially: (a) type and quality of implementation - For example, speaking of in-the-lens implementations, today we...

This is a truly amazing thread. Seems that so many folks are coming up with excellent, well-meaning suggestions, which could benefit many besides (other than?!) the TS. What I gather is that the TS knows best - from the study of the virtual photos provided :dunno:, and the given condition that...

Mark, you've got an excellent camera for lowlight situations - you'd do well with a 50/1.8D (no motor, really cheap!) or a Sigma 30mm/1.4 HSM (with motor, but very fast 1.4, and excellent image quality). Unless you're already used to the greatly reduced depth-of-field of the 50/1.4D or 50/1.4G...

I'm Malaysian, based in KL, but have travelled a LOT to JB and Singapore, and probably the most unsatisfying and expensive propition, time-wise and money-wise, is doing the trip in either direction by air - contrary to what you might think, it does NOT really save time. The one-hour bus ride...

Yes, the new 35/1.8 would be an excellent choice today. Or, if low light is your thing, the Sigma 30mm/1.4 HSM might be just what you need (around your budget, or a tad above only). If you're into the true "manual experience", as MANY D40 users are, there's the Nikon 50mm/1.8D (real cheap...

Do realize that getting a flash alone might not solve your problems with the 18-200VR! What I mean is that this lense is a "fair weather lense", i.e. bright, or daylight conditions, because the rather small aperture makes (auto-)focusing difficult, which manifests itself as "hunting". Don't get...

Something I learned from ancient SLR (film!) days - if your lens is anything longer than 2 or 3 inches, which is typical of all of today's zooms, do NOT lay it attached to the body with battery down, because if your bag is forced to be placed down with "rude" force or a weight accidentally is...

Integrasky - Think about it - "where I stand too far ..." - are you uncomfortable taking the shot in the first place?! If so, you're not even focusing on your subject, but on yourself, and ANY lens you use would yield less than "interesting" results. Also, when you're sort of "across the street"...

My first impression upon seeing this image (not bothering with the accompanying, ultimately confusing text!), was that there's a good shot lurking in there somewhere, but the composition as it stands (geometry, lighting, lines) is possibly the only one way NOT to portray this subject! Why...

It's best to use a better-quality focusing screen (e.g. from focusingscreen.com or Katzeye) coupled with a habit of first focusing then recomposing - needs practice, for sure! The "green dot" technique is good for starting out with manual focus lenses on the D40 but eventually, you'll realize...

Unless you're already familiar with the "ruler-at-45-degree" method of checking focus accuracy, it could very well be a bit ambiguous or confusing to interpret! With the D300, you have another, and possibly simpler option - paste a sharp diagram of vertical and horizontal lines or circles or...

I'm quite used, from film days about 30 years ago, to manual-focussing most lenses, but find that the auto-focus 50mm/1.8D, whilst capable of simply great quality, is somewhat lacking in terms of "fineness" in manual focussing ring control. Tested several units owned by others and I find that...

Ha, ha, ha! I was wondering when somebody was going to say that - all four are actually ridiculous on many counts - firstly common to all is a distinct unsuitability of the display for precise viewing, much less editing of photographs; secondly, you would ask if the machines fully and correctly...

Since you're going the D40 way, and are interested in the 50/1.8 ... go for it!!! Also, don't feel bad that with the 50/1.8 you "have to manual focus" ... believe me, with most cameras featuring auto-focus, it is YOU and YOUR EYE alone that decides if the focus as automatically set "for you"...

Just my $0.02 worth of suggestion - since it is for portrait work under what is effectively studio conditions, you WILL gravitate away from having "the system" do your calculation for you, i.e. away from TTL, and eventually end up 100% with manual exposure (... and flash) control!! The best...