Recent content by apersson850

I have both the EF-S 17-55 mm f/2.8 IS USM and the EF 24-105 mm f/4L IS USM. They both have their purposes.

Not at the same time. First meter where you want, press AE lock (* button), then recompose and half-press trigger to lock focus, then recompose again and take the photo. If you are going to do this repeatedly, then both exposure and focus are better set manually.

They routinely ask for a scan/photo of the card if you want the goods delivered to an address within the US, but pay with a card from some other country. Just to protect your money. If you then keep on using the same card, you don't have to re-validate. When I buy from B&H, I do it when I'm...

When having the battery grip on the 7D, it will drain the battery that has the highest charge first, until they are at the same level. Then it drains them alternatively, until they are both down to zero.

Not only macro by traditional definition. Already when you are one meter or so from your subject, you risk the lower part of the image becoming darker, because of the flash being mounted a bit above the optical axis. By pointing the flash downwards, you compensate for this.

When I bought my first Canon camera, the longest FD lens available was the FD 300mm f/5.6 S.C. If you wanted a longer focal length, you could buy a base unit, which you then combined with different front components, to get the focal lengths 400mm f/5.6, 600mm f/5.6, 800mm f/8 and 1200mm f/11...

I have a 7D. I agree in that if you don't plan to make full use of the AF system in the 7D, something which does include learning the purpose of all the settings associated with the AF system (which is as complex as the one in the 1D Mark IV), then there's not much you gain over the 60D. The...

That's correct, but not applicable in this case, since the poster indicated that he had control of the shutter speed. He had tried down to 1/20s already (post #3). Probably used M mode, which is the most appropriate for flash in most cases anyway.

Overexposure when using E-TTL is most often due to bad contact between camera and flash. Maybe that's the issue you are seeing. After mounting the flash it doesn't get contact first, then you use it and it wiggles a little, and that's enough to get it working. Try cleaning the contacts. Use a...

This has nothing at all to do with the question posted here. Canon's EOS cameras disable 2nd curtain sync if you set 1/60s or faster. But it's correct as stated in other responses above - to see it by your naked eye, you need to slow down the exposure, or your brain will not notice the...

Only you know what you miss. If you don't, then you should probably stay cool, save some more and be better prepared when you do realize. But if I still should dare a suggestion - do you have any external flash, like a 430 EX II?

The lenses I use the most are probably these EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM But depending on the circumstances, I also use some other lenses, like EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM EF 50mm f/1.4 USM EF-S 60mm f/2.8 macro USM EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II...

MARK1992 is correct. The focal length of a lens is a physical characteristic of that lens. It's the same, regardless of which camera you mount it on, or if you don't mount it at all. A 50mm lens will still be a 50mm lens, when it's lying in solitude on a table. However, by tradition we have...