Tips, Tricks and Guidelines for Night Photography


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Francis247

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Jul 10, 2005
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Hi All,

After helping to organise the First Nikon Clubsnap Outing for 2008 - Singapore Flyer. I was fortunate enough to be given the opportunity to share my experience and knowledge on Night Photography with some of the fellow photographers.

I was really glad to see some of those who attended the night photography session took notes and shared with all.

This inspired me to start a thread to consolidate my thoughts on some of the basic tips, tricks and guidelines for Night Photography.

This thread only serve as a general guideline for most situations encountered in Night Photography and the results may vary.
A basic understanding of the camera and fundamental of photography is still needed to gain better control of the situation.

Special Thanks to Sarukingfisher and Huggable for taking the effort to type out the main points that I shared that night.

Basic Guidelines and Concepts for Night Photography

Here's the main points from Francis for the night photography :

1) 6.45pm - 7.15pm - Rule of 8

A Mode, F8, ISO 100

2) beyond 7.15pm - Rule of 88

M Mode, F8, 8", ISO 100, WB-Auto.

Note: this is a general guideline, try 1st shot to gauge whether to over expose or under expose.

3) use of black card as the 2nd shutter to cut out exposure.

eg 1: street lights that usually will cause over exposure

eg 2: foreground is brighter than background, could cover with black card for the brighter areas to remove the required exposure.

4) for DSLR without ISO 100, could use F11.

5) starburst effect is demonstrated with the 6-star filter lens

6) zoom effect was demonstrated
-> create shootout effect

7) zoom effect with black card was demonstrated - from wide to close up
-> create repetitive subject from far to near

8) zoom effect without black card was demontrated - from wide to close up
-> create repetitive subject from far to near with a trail effect

9) use of black card for firework

cheers ;)

Thanks!

Just to add:

10) Use the viewfinder curtain (if equipped) to prevent stray light from fooling the camera metering system. (if not using M mode)

11) Framing. Try to exclude unnatural items (like tree branches, construction sites) in the frame when taking landscape shots.

12) Important use of tripod, bulb mode, and cable release for taking fireworks. Expose the background sufficiently before the fireworks come on. Use small aperture for thin trails, bigger aperture for thicker light trails.

Looking forward to the "painting with light" lesson!

*Taken from the original thread here.
 

Equipment needed for Night Photography

1. Camera - PnS or DSLR
2. Tripod and Tripod Head (Pan-Head or Ball-Head)
3. Cable Release
4. Black Card
5. Flashlight or Speedlight
6. Colour Gels for Flashlight/Speedlight
7. Torchlight
8. Insect Repellent (Optional)

#1. Camera - PnS or DSLR
For PnS camera, the aperture and shutter speed may some time be limited. However, all is not lost. Just do what you can do and don't do what other do. Understanding your camera's abilities and applying the fundamental of photography can some time produce results that are better than a DSLR.

For DSLR camera, understanding the operation, limits and performance is very important to gain better control of your camera. Remember, you are the master of the camera, not the other way around. Don't be afraid to try. Understanding the fundamental of photography is needed for the photographer to evaluate the exposure needed, the effects desired and the end results to be captured.

#2. Tripod and Tripod Head (Pan-Head or Ball-Head)
Invest on a good tripod system that can last you for a long time. The last thing that a photographer want is having to buy something that doesn't serve its purposes well or end up not using it or spending additional money to get a new set after a short while. Why not invest the money on a good tripod set that can last you at least 2 to 5 years (or more) while spending the additional money on new lenses, cameras or accessories.

What is a good tripod system? Estimate the heaviest weight of your camera setup and find a tripod head that can take the weight of the system firmly without creeping. Next, find a tripod that can take the weight of both the camera system and tripod head but yet still comfortable for you to carry around. Remember, take some of the following points into consideration when selecting a tripod system that is good for you : stability, comfortable, ease of use, height of tripod system, material used, weight and cost.

For Tripod head, the most common used are ball-head type and easy to use but a pan-head can sometime be used for creating interesting effects if used correctly.

10_1.jpg

*This shot was made possible using a pan-head tripod head.*

Situation where Tripods are not needed
Tripod should be used in most situation for Night Photography. However, in situation such as taking Street and Candid (e.g. Busy night crowd in Chinatown during Chinese New Year period) or maybe Reportage of Chingay (where you don't have the luxury to set up a tripod and be fixed at a position), setting up tripod might not be possible. Try to apply the fundamental of photography, understand what you want to capture and see what works the best for you in the situation provided.

#3. Cable Release
Cable Release is a good accessory to have, it might be available in wired or wireless remote version depending from camera system to camera system. Why is cable release important in Night Photography? Well, it minimized the need for the photographer to handle the camera when releasing the shutter hence reducing unwanted/accidental vibration and shaking. Another alternative to cable release is using a self-timer or using a black card.

Another advantage of using cable release is for shooting long exposure (Exposure time > 30secs) or known as BULB mode. Some cable releases come with shutter release lock/hold which will keep the shutter open until the photographer unlock/unhold the shutter release or until the battery of the camera is drain out. It give the photographer more control over camera as in when to release the shutter and how long to keep the shutter open.

#4. Black Card
Black card is a very useful item for Night Photography. It acts like a second shutter plane and it can be used cut down exposure (aka dodging technique) in some tricky situation such as when the foreground is brighter than background, use the black card for the brighter areas to remove the exposure. Or in situation where the street lights usually will get over exposure, use the black card to dodge down the exposure.

Black card can be used for creative shooting or to create different interesting effects. All you need, is to understand how to use it properly and let your creativity flow. Black card can be used as a stopper to prevent unwanted exposure/light from been capture (e.g. you are doing painting with lights in a very dark environment and halfway, you spot an on-coming car with bright-headlight which is unplanned/undesired. You could either do nothing and retake the shot one more time, or you could use a black card to stop the shutter temporarily and remove the black card and continue where you left off when the car is gone.)

Black card itself is a very useful and interesting technique which will be discussed in details in the future section.

#5. Flashlight or Speedlight
Flashlight/Speedlight is to introduce artificial lighting (usually rated at 5000K to 5500K) to light up the scene. Some time, colour gel can be placed over the flashlight to introduce light of another colour for interesting effect. More will be covered in the next topic Colour Gels. Flashlight is rated based on Guide Number.

Flashlight/Speedlight is usually not required for Night Landscape/Cityscape Photograhy unless you are taking the landscape/cityscape with some human subjects or subjects that you like your viewers to focus your attention on. For Night Portrait Photography, Flashlight is needed so as to illuminate the human subject to be capture and also to prevent ghosting effect on the human subjects due to the long exposure required.

Flashlight can be used for create interesting effects such as Painting with Light (or Light Painting) for Nocturne Photography and Flashlight Photography itself is another big topic for discussion. Technique such as Repeating Flash, Creative Lighting System are just some of the possibilities that can be achieve if your Flashlight/Speedlight have the function in-built in them.
 

Guideline for taking Star Trails
Diffculty Level : Middle

An understanding of the stars over the sky and light pollution will aid in capturing of star trails.

Equipment

1. Camera - Compact or DSLR (DSLR - preferred)
2. Tripod and Tripod Head (Pan-Head or Ball-Head)
3. Cable Release
4. Black Card
5. Flashlight or Speedlight
6. Colour Gels for Flashlight/Speedlight
7. Torchlight
8. Insect Repellent (Optional)
9. Foldable Chair (Optional - For comfort)
10. Software : “Startrails” Application (For Software Stacking method)

Setting

1. Night sky with stars but preferly without cloud or moonlight
2. Area with least light pollution
3. Interesting subjects such as dead trees, buildings, cars and etc
4. Timing varies from seasons to seasons, locations to locations, for a start, try from 8:00pm onwards.
4. Look for Polaris also known as Northern Star or Pole Star is possible. However, it might not be possible to locate the Polaris in Singapore. Hence, in such cases, try to point towards the North sky and fill the frame with the stars in the night sky. (More details about how to locate the Polaris can be found here) *Link not updated yet*

Techniques

Manual Long Exposure

1. Look for an appropriate location and plan your composition
2. Setup tripod and mount camera on tripod head. Look through viewfinder and do final adjustment if needed. Use a torchlight to assist you in composing if it is too dark to see.
3. Attached your cable release to your camera (if you are using cable type shutter release) or set your camera shutter release to wireless remote (if you are using wireless trigger).
4. Set Exposure Mode to Manual (M). Use Mirror-Up (Mup) function if you want, or you can set your Long Exposure Noise Reduction (NR) to ON, these are optional.
5. Depending on your location and situation, the ISO can range from ISO 50 or below to ISO 400. For a start, use ISO100.
6. Aperture could range anything from f4.0 to f16.0. However, the smaller the aperture, the more likely the star trails might be masked out by the light pollution as closing the aperture smaller makes the star trails finer. Opening up the aperture to f5.6 or f8 should be sufficient.
7. Set the shutter speed to BULB mode.
8. White Balance setting is not really that important. Depending on what you wanted to achieve. Alternatively, you can try shooting in RAW format and set the White Balance to Auto.
9.

Software Stacking

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Software used for Star Trails Stacking

Windows users
http://www.startrails.de/html/software.html

Mac users
http://www.markus-enzweiler.de/software/software.html

Results comparison

Manual Long Exposure

DSC_1156_1_filtered.jpg


Software Stacking

Startrails1_Perth800.jpg
 

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This thread is still under-construction to share out more of the Tips, Tricks and Guidelines for Night Photography. Any one with any tips to share. Do feel free to PM me. I will lock this thread for easy maintainence. Thank you for your understanding.
 

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